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Zeb Shoes (GMTM) Longwing Blucher


New Member
Aug 9, 2019
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Greetings! This is my first post on Styleforum.

Original post on the Reddit Goodyear Welt sub

Who is Zeb? Maybe you've heard of Zeb shoes (or maybe you haven't) and I'm posting here today in search of people interested in taking part in a group made-to-measure (not MTO) order of Longwings. As I mentioned: this is made-to-measure, so if you have odd-shaped feet or other troubles with getting shoes that fit you well, this might be the perfect opportunity for you--and at an unbeatable price!

For those who aren't familiar with the brand, here is Zeb’s Instagram for easy reference. Zeb’s shoes and boots tend toward elegant but formidable designs, due to Veldtschoen construction (for those that like a sleeker/lighter shoe, Zeb can also make them using Blake construction), and each of their shoes have distinct characteristics that separate them from classic versions of a given design (e.g. their Jodhpur boots have a quite distinct design from more “classic” models).

Design: given that Zeb has unique takes on classic shoe designs, this won't be a run-of-the-mill longwing. With this in mind Bojan—the man behind Zeb Shoes—concocted a wicked, unique version of the classic longwing (I helped a little bit). Linked below are the initial drawing made while drinking coffee and two photo-shopped images (based on a real image of an existing longwing) to give people an idea of what we're going for.

Artist’s rendition

Two small tweaks have been made to the design that deviate far enough from the classic to be instantly distinguishable, but not so far that they can’t be called longwings anymore. The two changes are: adding a small peak to the wing similar to the wing of a balmoral boot and rounding the bottom of the trim on the lace facings (which will be aligned with the curvature of the wing in the final design).

Something entirely new: one thing that makes this GMTM group unique is that we aren't just choosing a makeup, Zeb will be creating a new pattern for the group. Therefore, we would need to gather 300 Euros to cover the cost for making the pattern. Interested parties would divide this cost (e.g. if there are 10 of us, we each chip in 30 Euros)--and this amount would later be credited towards the final purchase of the shoes.

Prices (shipping cost NOT included):
€410 for calf leather, €390 for suede, €430 for Maryam tannery horsehide, and €610 for Horween shell cordovan.

Other customizations: Zeb has multiple lasts to choose from. You can choose from a variety of soles (leather, double leather, toppies, wedges, crepe, full commando, and various half soles). Note: for leather soles they generally make a leather toppy, rather than having exposed stitching or a closed channel. You can get natural, brown, and black edge dressing. Various hardware choices, e.g. brass, silver, black, etc.

Provided we reach the number of people to place the order, the next steps will be as follows:
  1. We send in the initial 300€ group (30€ each—or less if we get more than 10) payment for the prototype. Once we determine how many people are interested we will send info regarding payment. This is a totally new model, i.e. designed from scratch, so Zeb has to engage a pattern designer.
  2. Bojan will then work with the designer to make the prototype of the shoe come to life over the next couple of months.
  3. Once it is completed. The prototype is unveiled and everyone who wants to proceed confirms their interest. The steps then turn into more individual ones for each of us rather than overall as a group.
  4. Each of us decide on our own customizations and fill out our personal order sheets, and send measurements. For those who have not ordered from Zeb before, the measurement process involves filling in a measurement form he sends by measuring multiple parts of your foot, as well as taking tracings that you then take photos of or scan. Bojan is extremely helpful with all of this by the way, including any questions about the different options.
  5. Each person pays the remaining amount for the shoes (price minus the contribution for pattern making plus shipping).
  6. Over the next approximately 3 weeks the shoes are made.
  7. They are shipped express post and arrive at our houses.
  8. We enjoy our new shoes.
If you’re interested or have more questions about the process, please post a reply.

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