Yuketen Fall/Winter 2014Words by Ben P. Another visit to Capsule, another excellent season from Yuketen. One of the things I appreciate about Yuketen – and something that seems true of most of Yuki’s collections (including Monitaly, which Synthese did an admirable job of covering here) – is that each season is approached in an incremental fashion. Looking over their shoes is like visiting an old friend. You know what to expect in general, but each time there’s a definite sign of growth. For this season, I was especially excited about Yuketen’s ongoing collaboration with French maker Heschung. A number of shoes – including a chukka, a bit loafer chukka and a double-monk chukka boot – feature Heschung’s signature waterproof Norwegian-welt construction, and are a great bridge between Yuketen’s more casual styles and their formal offerings. As always, Yuketen’s moccasins and loafers are first class. Beyond the usual suspects, Yuketen introduced both a guide boot and a ranger moccasin with fur uppers, an option that I hope at least one retailer is adventurous enough to try. While Yuketen is known for using American manufacturers for the majority of their shoes, they’ve recently been experimenting with Canadian, French, Mexican and Italian production. Interestingly, according to them, their Made in Mexico boots are especially high quality, and are almost entirely made by hand. My favorite pieces, though, were the boots. In past seasons Yuketen’s boots have suffered from simply being reproductions of their oxfords with higher shafts. This season, though, the boots are stunning. I couldn’t take my eyes off a stunning snuff suede plain toe boot with a rubber sole that is begging for some heavy wear. I was also excited to see a galosh-style boot too, with a highly burnished upper and a thick double leather sole. Yuki also brought a number of bags to Capsule, including wool backpacks and leather messengers. Few retailers have carried Yuketen’s bags, but I hope that will change.