Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Blackhood, Feb 28, 2012.
I'll take their stupid over today's smart any day.
Of course, but doesn't the story go that Terrence Young took Connery to his tailor (Sinclair?) to get kitted out for the film?
I thought DBs were traditionally ventless. Am I wrong? Is the rule different for tuxes?
There's only so much one can do for a Scotsman.
It would be wise and practical to avoid the word "rule" when talking about jacket vents.
Hardy Amies, in 1964, wrote thusly:
"Side Vent: Side vents are short openings at the bottoms of the two side seams of a jacket. They are usually no more than 3 inches long, and on a sports jacket they make it a semi-hacking style. They tend to be out of place on single-breasted lounge suits, but they can be effective on a double-breasted jacket, where a center vent would appear unbalanced."
"Center Vent: The vent is actually a slit in the middle of the back of a riding or hacking jacket designed to allow the skirt of the jacket to spread freely whe you sit astride a horse. It can help the jacket of a suit in much the same way, and in any case it adds a touch of style. For riding, a center vent must start at the waist. In a suit or sports jacket it should be seven or eight inches long."
Enjoy, iGents and iEnglishmen.
No word about dinner jackets? Hmmmmmmm.
Mr Amies, again:
"Dinner Jacket/Suit: By far the most popular form of eveningwear. Basically the cut of a dinner jacket is similar to that of a day suit and will therefore follow the same trends of fashion as regards to length and general style."
I already hear the wind rushing out the teeth of the online masses.
But what does that mean?
Did they want it to fit right? Or did they want it to fit a certain way for the film?
I'm guessing Connery rarely wears makeup in real life. The fact he does something in a movie is worth about what you paid for the ticket.
A well laid ̶t̶r̶a̶p̶ argument. Well done!
Funny, there is no remark [yet] about color of jacket, but only length and style, or is there a further opinion we should recognize?
It should be no surprise, considering that black tie has been a category of informal dress since its inception. So, what form does this informal dress code maintain? Any or none?
If you factor in Red Sea rig, not even a jacket is required for proper informal attire below white tie or full dress regalia, leaving us with shirt, pants, and shoes together with a small handful of accessories that in themselves, do not adhere to a form or formula since white tie was abandoned for less formal occasions.
It appears that many bespoke tailors - when left to their own devices - would still place vents on a DJ, but bow to the clients wishes to remove vents altogether.
Interestingly the Chest Barrie tux in the RTW range is ventless, against the wishes of the gents doing bespoke. It seems faux-correctness has almost entirely overthrown tradition in this instance.
I got a new SB last year-- I ordered ventless, but somehow my tailor forgot and put vents in. I don't know if it was the extra work involved (more than likely) or a legitimate aesthetic issue, but he said that it made more practical sense for a long-ish (i.e., not short) jacket to have vents.
On the other hand, I have a DB DJ from A&S, and it has no vents. No problem.
I asked Richard about this once. He said he knew that vents were not strictly proper but he liked them anyway so that's a different answer/explanation.
My own dinner suit has no vents. I think short vents are ok but regular vents on dinner suits seem wrong to me.
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