Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Your thoughts on the Ventess Tux...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Blackhood, Feb 28, 2012.

  1. Blackhood

    Blackhood Senior member

    Messages:
    2,904
    Likes Received:
    365
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Location:
    Cambridge, UK
    I was on Savile Row last week receiving some schooling in bespoke from the gents at Chester Barrie and then Richard James, and when the subject came to ventless coats (for a tux) in both cases the word “American” was spat at me.

    It seems that to the traditionalists of the row the vents on a coat are a functional addition, allowing movement and comfort. Removing them is an exercise in vanity that allows for a closer cut at the seat than normal, but at the expense of movement.

    I was instructed that should I advise a customer to commission a ventless coat I would suffer a pain worse than death.

    I’d love to hear thoughts, comparisons or contradictions from the accused Americans, and anyone else with a slightly longer history of tailoring.
     


  2. Master Squirrel

    Master Squirrel Senior member

    Messages:
    1,279
    Likes Received:
    33
    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2009
    It might be my body shape and muscular bottom, but there is no restriction on movement or comfort in my ventless dinner jacket.
     


  3. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Cyber Eliitist

    Messages:
    4,035
    Likes Received:
    1,651
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2011
    

    +1. It's actually rather interesting (disturbing?) that qualified tailors would make this statement. As a man with a rather large "posterior" ventless is a whole lot more flattering than vented. While I realize this may have become popular in the US, the choice for no vent, in my case, was to address the issue of a larger backside while keeping clean lines. Which it does quite nicely.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2012


  4. recondite

    recondite Senior member

    Messages:
    373
    Likes Received:
    39
    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2012
    Location:
    Kulhudhuffushi, Kaafu, Maldives
    Dinner jackets have vents?

    Who knew?

    I think when you are talking about what is truly a Tuxedo style dinner jacket, one that is double breasted, vents might be a nice accommodation for ease of movement, although I wouldn't know, single my dinner jackets are all single breasted, unvented by design,and offer excellent ease of movement.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2012


  5. Master Shake

    Master Shake Senior member

    Messages:
    1,047
    Likes Received:
    16
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    I prefer double-vented dinner jackets solely on aesthetic grounds.
     


  6. NORE

    NORE Senior member

    Messages:
    5,495
    Likes Received:
    300
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2010
    Location:
    Back On Here
    I would never consider a coat without twin vents.
     


  7. Blackhood

    Blackhood Senior member

    Messages:
    2,904
    Likes Received:
    365
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Location:
    Cambridge, UK
    As I say, I have grown up believing ventless to be the standard, but these guys had about 120 years experience between the three of them, with almost all of it on the row.

    I actually own a ventless SB and BD coat and find it comfortable and sleek, but I wonder where it has this modern state of affairs arisen from?
     


  8. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

    Messages:
    10,562
    Likes Received:
    6,340
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    FWIW, my RTW DJ from Ede is ventless but we went for two rear vents on my MTM one. We did discuss vents vs when ordering the MTM one; their opinion (this is at my local branch, not their London location) was that either option would be correct. Maybe they'd have advised differently for a bespoke DJ given the greater degree of pattern individualisation - I didn't think to ask - but I rather doubt it. I can't imagine being there being all that much difference really. Having said that, even when vents are sitting perfectly flat, the very fact that material overlaps means a jacket will look slightly cleaner/sleeker without them, so on a theoretical level I can understand trade-off that the people at whichever houses you spoke to are suggesting. In practice, I think these days that it is very much personal choice and no-one at any event would raise an eyebrow at either one.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2012


  9. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,505
    Likes Received:
    557
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    I went with ventless in mine primarily just because it's more traditional and I don't have it on any other coats. Nice to have something different sometimes.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2012


  10. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

    Messages:
    4,908
    Likes Received:
    1,153
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2010
    Closed at the front? Open at the hips.

    Open at the front? Closed at the hips.

    So say I.
     


  11. Butler

    Butler Senior member

    Messages:
    828
    Likes Received:
    2,065
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2009
    Location:
    CPH
    



    Ditto :bigstar:
     


  12. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,505
    Likes Received:
    557
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    

    So if it's a DB then vents and if it's a SB then ventless?
     


  13. Anthony Jordan

    Anthony Jordan Senior member

    Messages:
    508
    Likes Received:
    9
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2006
    Location:
    Mid Glamorgan, South Wales
    Most of the vintage dinner jackets I have owned have been British-made, and all have been ventless*, so I am not convinced that your colleagues are correct, historically speaking anyway. If we were talking day suits, that might be a slightly different matter, I suppose, but I have always seen ventless dinner jackets as perfectly correct and perfectly British.

    *as are my current four, including the Spanish one I am currently eBaying
     


  14. marblehouse

    marblehouse Senior member

    Messages:
    1,708
    Likes Received:
    533
    Joined:
    May 17, 2009
    Location:
    never odd or even
    Another vote for ventless being classically correct - and aesthetically preferable - for a SB tuxedo.
     


  15. recondite

    recondite Senior member

    Messages:
    373
    Likes Received:
    39
    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2012
    Location:
    Kulhudhuffushi, Kaafu, Maldives
    Who's to argue?

    Now that is straightened out, a ruling is required on the idea that pocket square and boutonnière should be mutually exclusive, a standard one has adopted. What say you?

    And what is the universal convention for summer hats with black tie attire? Straw boaters used be standard summer wear in the US and elsewhere all manner of Top Hats, Homburg's, straw Trilby's and Fedora's, have been observed. Can you please establish a more universal standard for one who is sartorially ignorant in such matters?



     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by