Your preferred finish on shell cords?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Nick V., Jul 6, 2012.

  1. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,384
    Likes Received:
    256
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Curious to know the consensus. Which do you prefer:

    1. Don't do anything to them. You like the patina that time and wear gives them.
    2. A bright finish.
    3. A matted, healthy finish.
    4. Others?
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2012
  2. redtree00

    redtree00 Senior member

    Messages:
    326
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2004
    Location:
    Yes
  3. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

    Messages:
    9,457
    Likes Received:
    3,716
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2009
    3. Please edit title
     
  4. Shikar

    Shikar Senior member

    Messages:
    3,066
    Likes Received:
    31
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2007
    Location:
    Houston, Tx
    Nick, thanks for asking. My preference would be as follows.

    4. Keep the patina. Clean the upper. Bone out creases as much as possible. Give healthy shine, nourish. Don't apply too much color, if any. Buff.

    Regards.
     
  5. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

    Messages:
    5,248
    Likes Received:
    273
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2011
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    The Mac Method.

    Brush until your arm falls off.

    Polish very rarely. Pay special attention to the welt/stitching as it needs moisture protection.

    Allow patina to develop with time.
     
  6. md2010

    md2010 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,894
    Likes Received:
    624
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    I prefer no2. But find it really hard to polish shell cordos. It always turns out to be matte finish. I read some where that Alden shells are shinny where as AE are more of a matte finish. I think the shine has to do with the finish(paint) these shoe maker apply on the leather(shell cordo). I have 3 pairs of shell by Florsheim DB. 2 of them are navy and dark cherry has the matte finish and the cordovan(burgundy) one is shinny. This is due to the heavy finish on the burgundy pair.
     
  7. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

    Messages:
    24,365
    Likes Received:
    410
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2007
    
    This. It really works well.
     
  8. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

    Messages:
    2,899
    Likes Received:
    538
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
    

    Hi Nick, are you asking b/c you'd like to know how to return shell shoes after refurbishment? If so my preference would be a simple cleaning, treatment with renovateur if needed, brushing, and a light coat of wax polish.
     
  9. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

    Messages:
    5,248
    Likes Received:
    273
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2011
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    

    I agree that Aldens seem to be shinier than many other maker's make ups. On my Carmina and Crockett and Jones Shell I find that a couple of coats of polish when fresh out of the box got them off to a shiny start. But they weren't as shiny on their own as Alden's are.
     
  10. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,384
    Likes Received:
    256
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    

    Thanks for asking but, no.
    I'm asking because I'm curious. There is no right or wrong answer to the question.
    If someone does not request a specific finish we use our judgment on what to do with them. We use the condition of the shoe when it came in as a guide for determining.
    We only use 3 products on cords.
    1. Saph. Reno.
    2. Saph MDO. made specifically for cords. Black, brown, neutral and, cordovan. (I'm going to try and convince the people at Saphir to make a whiskey color as well).
    3. Venetian.
    Sometimes we use a combination of the above.
    Any cords that have light colored stitching get either the Reno or Venetian. Sometimes both.

    Interesting though......When customers, wearing shells come in for a shine (on the stand) sometimes they ask for a parade-like shine and love the results. Others will ask for Saphir "not to shinny".
    So, you as an individual may have a specific preference. The next guy's preference may be different.

    I picked up some deer bones from Germany a while back. I've experimented with them on some scraps. I wasn't impressed with the results.
    So, I've drawn 2 conclusions:
    1. We don't have the proper technique down.
    2. It's an over-rated theory.
    In either case I find that it's a "risk is not worth the reward" issue.

    Your comments please....
     
  11. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

    Messages:
    5,248
    Likes Received:
    273
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2011
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    Nick,

    If you have the time I wonder if you might share your observations as to the differences you see between Venetian and Reno on shell. What might make you choose one over the other in a given situation?

    Interesting about the deer bone. I've been skeptical of the cost/value proposition of this one. I have used the 'old spoon trick' for smoothing out a scratch or two and it worked well. Just not sure the bone is something I really need.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2012
  12. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

    Messages:
    2,899
    Likes Received:
    538
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
    

    Never really a fan of a very high shine on shell. Looks too plastic.

    I use my deer bone only for scratches and mars. It doesn't work for me without reno though. I use the bone to work the reno in. Usually works like a charm.

    I'm dubious of the claim that the bone itself has essential oils that somehow make their way onto the shell. I've tested this by wrapping the bone in paper towels. I don't see any oils coming out onto the paper, so if there are oils we aren't talking about alot. My bone is basically new, so it's not as if it has dried out.
     
  13. Blackhood

    Blackhood Senior member

    Messages:
    2,904
    Likes Received:
    364
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Location:
    Cambridge, UK
    I spent nearly 5 minutes trying to work out what shell has to do with corduroy trousers...
     
  14. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,384
    Likes Received:
    256
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    

    From my experience the Venetian seems to penetrate deeper into the pores of the skin.
    So, with older or dried out skins we feed the leather with Venetian first. This gives us a better base. Then we apply the Reno.
    If you work both of the products equally as hard, the Venetian will leave a brighter finish than the Reno. That's something I don't like on shell cord skins (just my preference though).
    As for my taste, shell cords should have a luxurious finish somewhat of a healthy glow look.
    I suspect the inclusion of a slight amount of mink oil in the Reno is what keeps it from giving as bright a shine as the Venetian.
    I'm not a fan of mink oil on fine leathers. However, the Reno seems to have the perfect amount in it's formula to give the benefit of lubricating the leather without it caking on, impossible to remove and, causing it to attract dust and dirt.

    Agree on the spoon. It's safer and, more consistent.
     
  15. Roguls

    Roguls Senior member

    Messages:
    1,449
    Likes Received:
    161
    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2009
    Location:
    Newburgh
    

    Paper towel trick won't show anything unless you heat the bone; friction with the shell could create enough heat, perhaps.

    Though I'm not going to get a deer bone.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by