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Your opinions on my hand-me-down suit

mullivan

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Long time lurker, first time poster.

I recently came across this suit in my father's closet. Turns out it was his first interview suit (back in the 60s) and was apparently very high end at the time. I love the material - looks and feels great - but there are other aspects I don't like so much (listed below.) Anyway, it's mine now, and thankfully the shoulders are perfect (I think), and am trying to figure out what alterations it needs to be serviceable, and for what occasions. I'd appreciate your thoughts.

DISCLAIMER:
Some of the pics were taken from poor angels. Also, the suit has been hanging in a closet for 10 years and has not yet been pressed. This may make it hard to judge certain qualities of the suit.

Things I know need to be altered (mainly an overall tightening):
1. The jacket needs to brought in several inches around the waist.
2. The pants need to be brought in an inch at the waist.
3. The pants are very baggy in the seat. The crotch is also lower than I would prefer. I'd like to have both of these brought in.

Things I don't like so much, but not sure if it's worth altering:
1. The lapels are too wide for my taste. I prefer slightly slimmer ties, and I don't think those would work well with a lapel of this size. I've read this could be altered, but not sure how much it would cost and if it's worth it.
2. What's with only two buttons on the cuff? I'd like at least 3, if not 4, but this may look odd if the cut in the cuff is not extended in kind. Anyone have any experience making such an alteration?
3. It's tough to tell from the pics, but this is actually a three button jacket. The top button is too high though - it's almost hidden behind the lapel, making it unusable. I'd like to get this lowered ever so slightly so I can wear with the top two buttoned.




 

brozek

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Originally Posted by mullivan
Long time lurker, first time poster.

3. It's tough to tell from the pics, but this is actually a three button jacket. The top button is too high though - it's almost hidden behind the lapel, making it unusable. I'd like to get this lowered ever so slightly so I can wear with the top two buttoned.


I'll let someone who knows more about fit comment on taking it in, but what you've got there is a 3-roll-2 (three buttons with the lapel rolled over one, making it an effective 2-button jacket) sack suit. Sacks don't have darts to create waist suppression, and they're classic American. You'd fit right in over on the Ask Andy About Clothes Trad forum, where they're staunch advocates of all things dartless.
 

mack11211

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First of all, for where will you wear the suit?

In business, or just for weddings/funerals/court appearances? Clubbing?

Majer is a good maker but the suit looks like it came from when it came from, I'd guess late 60s/early 70s. Kinda stodgy.

The amount of alteration it would need to look contemporary, or even like a snazzier vintage suit, is considerable. And some things, like the width of the lapels or the length of the rise, are super expensive to alter if they can be done at all (in the case of the rise).
 

Golf_Nerd

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Hello,

I wouldn't wear it in these days. But it is interessting to have a look on.

Please send a pictue with the vest on.

Golf_Nerd
 

Dewey

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I think you could wear it and look sharp if you wore it in a way that shows you know what it is. It all depends, too, on the context. It would look better on a librarian or some other professional person who can wear a suit if he likes. On a lawyer it might send a bad message to clients.

I doubt most people would notice either way. Often I see twenty-year-old+ suits on old guys. They are still worn. And so long as the pattern/color/fabric is pretty conservative, most people will not know it's as old as it is. And if they do, it's not guaranteed that they will think less of you for wearing it. It all depends on the context and attitude with which you wear it.

Either way, if you wear it don't wear it, I say hold onto it, and don't get rid of it. The fit is too close, it was your father's, and there may be a day when you want to get it out and wear it.
 

ccffm1

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Okay, here is my point of view. What we have here is a hamburger. You can add tomatoes, mozzarella and prosciutto, but it will never be a pizza.
Don´t get me wrong. I love hamburgers and I love pizzas. Both can be delicious in their own right. What I don´t like is a dog´s dinner, and that´s exactly what you´ll get with all the alterations you listed.
As dewey said, wear it in a way that shows you know what it is. You should have the seat tailored and the legs tapered moderately. You might want to remove the belt loops; have suspender buttons attached instead. Leave the lapels alone, but slightly shorten the sleeves and get the pants hemmed. And for heaven´s sake, open that upper button. Wear it with together with the waistcoat, an OCBD that has a nice roll to its collar and some shell cordovan tassel loafers. Just my two cents.
 

Parker

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Another vote for not trying to make it into something it's not. I would do minimal alterations just so it fits better, but nothing drastic (lapels, rise, etc).
 

cvac

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The lapels don't look too wide for an average "trad" sack suit. Since these suits are still popular today, I don't see any problem with wearing it. It would fit in well in a conservative business environment. I would do only minimal alterations to have it fit you. No surgery on the lapels or anything like that. A 3.5" wide tie should look fine with those lapels. I wouldn't mess with the rise of the pants. The seat and waist should be able to be brought in a little though. You can bring in the waist a little, probably, but remember this is a "sack" jacket. It's never going to look like a modern European cut suit. Looks like a pretty nice suit. Wear that suit with a pair of classic looking Allen Edmonds or Alden shoes, a patterned burgundy or navy tie from Brooks Brothers or J.Press, and a plain white dress shirt and your "trad" look is complete. As for the cuffs, you can add buttons but that would require replacing all the original buttons on the suit and cutting new button holes for the 3 or 4th buttons on the cuff. Do not button the top button on that suit, only the middle button should be used. That is how the jacket is designed. It's called a 3 to 2 rolled lapel. See here: http://jpressonline.com/suits_presstige_detail.php?ix=1 Whatever you do, make sure you take it to the most reputable tailor you can. A crummy tailor will ruin the suit. A good tailor will know what to do without ruining the look of the suit.
 

a tailor

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the jacket has no front dart. it was not made to have an extreme sharp waist. so dont push it too far. get a new set of buttons , with 4 on the sleeve. i think it was meant for the lapel to roll to the center button so that the vest shows. you may need to take in the vest.
take in the waist, seat,and the crotch. do wear the belt up on your natural waist, not on your hip bones. that would take care of the excess depth.
 

Cordovan

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Again - to echo the others, it seems that you're interested in a different style, but from a quick glance, it looks like a traditional trad suit.

Enjoy
 

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