Your favorite suit label?

[sho'nuff]

I've been recently really into the rlpl/bl suits being thrown around these days and they got me really enthralled over suits. The silhouettes, fabrics, designs, and construction so far are tops from amongst any that I owned in my life.
I cannot see how it can be better than rl.

What is your favorite suit label and can you comment on why?

I take a polo made in italy corneliani suit which is very good in itself but that worn and standing next to myself wearing a black label caruso suit, it makes the corneliani look like a kid's silhouette. Generic.

 

[polar-lemon]

Originally Posted by sho'nuff

I've been recently really into the rlpl/bl suits being thrown around these days and they got me really enthralled over suits. The silhouettes, fabrics, designs, and construction so far are tops from amongst any that I owned in my life.
I cannot see how it can be better than rl.

What is your favorite suit label and can you comment on why?

I take a polo made in italy corneliani suit which is very good in itself but that worn and standing next to myself wearing a black label caruso suit, it makes the corneliani look like a kid's silhouette. Generic.

i strongly disagree with you on your last point. i find black label does not work at all for me, i really dislike the shoulder, and i know that many others feel similarly. quality differences aside, polo blue label is my favorite RTW silhouette. i think it manages to be tasteful and versatile, and at the same time extremely subtle and refined. the shoulder is fantastic, the shaping of the waist is perfect, and i like the shorter length of the coat. i think the balance is just right. by comparison, the low button stance, skinny lapel, and built up shoulder of BL just doesn't do it for me- i think blue label will look classic twenty years, but BL might look dated.

 

[sho'nuff]

Good opinions. I'd like to hear more of these types of comments on any suit brand and/or comparisons.

I'm going to have to recheck my polo suit.

 

[antirabbit]

I am a huge Caruso fan (both PL and BL), their cuts work very well on me.

as far as favs?

Caruso is my fav-They are soft tailored, very lean shoulders, very light on the padding, have distinct long and elegant lapels, and the pants seem to fit my hips well.
Isaia V and S are my second-Same thing but even softer tailoring. The shoulders on these are really amazing. The reason they are second is I only have 2, and they are more difficult to find on the cheap.
I am waiting on a Cifonelli, so I will report on that later.
I have seen the Barbera made by Attolini, those are pretty amazing, a bit more structured, but amazing in construction and the fabrics are top notch.

PL by St. Andrews looks funky on me, I totally appreciate the handwork and the quality, but the shoulders throw it all off for me.
I just got a Golden Fleece, I have to say I am impressed. Seems kind of British in cut. I know the Italian made Golden Fleece is made by Caruso. American is by Greenfield (like mine). The cut reminds me of a Davies and Sons I have. Very shaped, softish shoulders with a more pronouced shape than say Isaia.

Overall the Italians make what works for me (RTW, I will not go bespoke for some time).

Sho, I think that you would love Sartorio, they are supadupa.

 

[beansprouts1]

Originally Posted by polar-lemon

i strongly disagree with you on your last point. i find black label does not work at all for me, i really dislike the shoulder, and i know that many others feel similarly. quality differences aside, polo blue label is my favorite RTW silhouette. i think it manages to be tasteful and versatile, and at the same time extremely subtle and refined. the shoulder is fantastic, the shaping of the waist is perfect, and i like the shorter length of the coat. i think the balance is just right. by comparison, the low button stance, skinny lapel, and built up shoulder of BL just doesn't do it for me- i think blue label will look classic twenty years, but BL might look dated.

I do agree that RLBL works on some and not others, but I don't think it'll become dated.
RLBL looks great on me, the pants fit perfectly and the suit jackets fit great OTR. the regular blue label is just too baggy and the pants are so big that they can't be adjusted.

However, with my friend who has the same chest size but a 2inch larger waist, the blue label fits him perfectly. the RLBL just looks too tight and skinny on him. So I really think that the RLBL and blue label fits are both classic, but requires different body types.

 

[DocHolliday]

My favorite's Corneliani, though some of their models work better for me than others. The cut is very different from the Polo stuff. I liked Polo better before Ralph started making most it way too short and tight.

I agree with the view that BL will look dated. It's too distinctive not to. BL, I think, is very much a product of the '60s revival that seems to have peaked. I'll be curious to see if Ralph goes in a different direction with the line in a few years, which will officially date the earlier stuff, or if he just ends it and starts something new.

 

[Jrslm_Stylin]

I'm with the OP on RLBL--fantastic cut for me, classy, good material. I think "a good cut" really depends on your height/body type, however. I would call Corneliani "classic" rather than "generic," although I'm with you that I prefer BL's cut. Also agree that BL is going for a particular retro look (cerca 1960), which I really like, but more classic designs (such as those of Corneliani and Hickey Freeman, both of which I consider generally excellent suitmakers) are less susceptible to being "out of fashion."

I'd also add that as much as I like RLBL (& I do not at all want to imply their workmanship is "cheap"), I think most of the Savile Row tailors, and many of the Italians, spend more time on details in their stiching--I've had to replace God knows how many buttons off RL jackets but have never seen a serious flaw or unfinished threading on top-end English and Italian suits. I have only owned one Purple Label coat but consider it of better overall quality than my RLBL (and more expensive no surprise), even as I prefer the BL silhouette.

 

[sho'nuff]

Excellent, colorful, beautiful descriptions and opinions all from top notch posters. Good reading. Thanks!

 

[Spatlese]

RLBL doesn't fit me well. PL (St. Andrews) from limited experience is about as good for me in RTW that I've encountered. Sartorio is very nice too.

And not RTW, but of course I want to get more acquainted with Chan later this year or in early 2010, if / when the Canadian dollar picks up.

 

[cgo]

I would say RLBL as well...

I actually kind of like Dolce and Gabbana's suit.....for similar reason to that of the RLBL....broad shoulder, nice waist suppression, and slim waist

 

[spence]

+1 on the Caruso comments above. The shoulder is awsome and it's cut slim. Only negative is I rarely see it off price, once in a while at FB.

Canali seems to fit me pretty well, but I like it better for odd sportcoats. Corneliani doesn't fit me well at all.

-spence

 

[HRoi]

i'm one of the "lucky" ones for whom RLBL fits perfectly and the silhouette works. but if i keep lifting weights and gaining bulk in the upper body, i've just wasted a suit. but of the suits/sports jackets i currently own, my fave is Brioni. i just like the silhouette, even though it isn't for everyone, and the construction is topnotch. i'm an ectomorph, so even with heavy weight training i dont gain so much muscle that i look like a football player in pads in Brioni. HOWEVER, my sights are currently set on giving Attolini a try. i recently tried on a few of their suits and i am in love with them

currently more than i'm willing to spend right now, so it's going on the grail list until i find a great deal or a winning lotto ticket

 

[forex]

St.Andrews for PL,Caruso (nice shoulders) and Borrelli.

 

[NaturalShoulder]

I will throw another vote for PRL. I love the soft shoulder and the waist has enough shape to it. The fabric is great quality as well. Only drawback is the fusing.

The other RTW I like is Samuelsohn. I am not a expert on the different makes, but I have a coat in the Greenwich model (sack but with some waist suppression) and a suit in the Douglas model (I had the padding removed from the shoulders).

 

[JayJay]

Ralph Lauren jackets in BL and PL don't fit me well, they never have.