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Your favorite suit label?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by sho'nuff, Mar 15, 2009.

  1. polar-lemon

    polar-lemon Senior member

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    I do agree that RLBL works on some and not others, but I don't think it'll become dated. RLBL looks great on me, the pants fit perfectly and the suit jackets fit great OTR. the regular blue label is just too baggy and the pants are so big that they can't be adjusted. However, with my friend who has the same chest size but a 2inch larger waist, the blue label fits him perfectly. the RLBL just looks too tight and skinny on him. So I really think that the RLBL and blue label fits are both classic, but requires different body types.
    I actually have a large drop, and find that this is exactly why RLBL doesn't work on me- chest and shoulders are cut so narrow that I have to size up, rendering the slim cut useless. Also, the blue label silhouette is cut in such a way so as to be very easily altered to fit my body (compared to most cuts)- even the pants, which come baggy, look great after a recut. Most significantly, taking a couple of inches or more out of the waist of the jacket does not throw the silhouette off or upset the coat's balance as it would in most others. The soft tailoring and the waist shaping already present really make it ideal for someone with a large drop, as long as they have a good alterations tailor, in the way that BL doesn't due to the very tight chest and shoulders (someone else mentioned this above).
     


  2. Moss

    Moss Senior member

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    The discontinued RL signature label by Corneliani had a nice silhouette and soft construction.

    Luciano Barbera CS, Borrelli, and Sartorio are my favorite RTW.
     


  3. polar-lemon

    polar-lemon Senior member

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    The discontinued RL signature label by Corneliani had a nice silhouette and soft construction.

    Luciano Barbera CS, Borrelli, and Sartorio are my favorite RTW.


    I found RL signature to have a VERY structured silhouette- the shoulder in particular was built up and roped, and the waist strong nipped. Almost British.
     


  4. cksnipe

    cksnipe Senior member

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    RLBL and sartorio are two of my favorites. I recently also got a Kiton from their Blanc Blu line which has awesome construction and a slightly structured, beautiful silhouette.
     


  5. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    Can it be bespoke? I don't own one but from the pics I see here and elsewhere and from the couple I've seen in person, I certainly like what I am seeing from Steed.
     


  6. Moss

    Moss Senior member

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    Yes, the roped shoulder gave it more of a British look, but the structure was not due to padding. I found the rest quite soft, but YMMV. No doubt a different product from the very soft shoulder of Sartorio, Borrelli, and Kiton.


    I found RL signature to have a VERY structured silhouette- the shoulder in particular was built up and roped, and the waist strong nipped. Almost British.
     


  7. sartort

    sartort Senior member

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    I found RL signature to have a VERY structured silhouette- the shoulder in particular was built up and roped, and the waist strong nipped. Almost British.
    +1. My RL Signature Label suit and jacket are both heavily structured in the shoulder, even more so than my Black Label. Strong roping and the nipped waist make for a bold silhouette Great stuff though.
    Yes, the roped shoulder gave it more of a British look, but the structure was not due to padding. I found the rest quite soft, but YMMV. No doubt a different product from the very soft shoulder of Sartorio, Borrelli, and Kiton.
    I know what you mean though. Despite the heavy roping and strong shoulder, the construction through the chest and quarters is very soft. As far as my own opinion goes, I own Corneliani for Polo, Corneliani for RL Signature Label (fully canvassed), Caruso for RL Black Label, and St. Andrews for RL Purple Label. I really like my Black Label suits. I find the fit to work well for me. I agree with the Doc unfortunately that it will probably look dated down the road. I try to convince myself it won't but it probably will. I think however, my RL Signature stuff is more extreme so one could say that it might appear dated as well. But it does have wider lapels. The shoulders are more heavily roped. But other than that, they are very similar. Buttoning point is the same and the waists are both very nipped. They both present in what is my mind a strong shouldered "British" look. I like my Black Label suits for their sleekness and sharp tailored sihouette. I prefer Polo, Sig Label and my Purple Label for odd jackets though. I think Black Label tends too look good with other Black Label. I think Polo is the best choice for odd jackets (but do not like the pants on the suits as I find them large/baggy). I only wish that Polo was more consistent in its sizing. I have a few 38Rs and they all fit a little different. Black Label is consistent in this regard. My favorite would have to be my St. Andrews/Purple Label DB Blazer. Slightly structured shoulders, but so soft it feels like I am putting on an old tshirt. I am also looking towards getting some Sartorios down the road based upon the reviews in this thread and others.
     


  8. Wicky

    Wicky Senior member

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    Kiton by far due to the fabrics they use and their construction quality. Too bad they are so damm expensive and rarely on discount. Borrelli and my new found treasure Stile Latino by Attolini are a close second. Raf Caruso is most definately the best value for money.
     


  9. paeday

    paeday Senior member

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    I agree with polar-lemon's assessment on the blue labels.....they can be significantly made slimmer without altering the balance of the coat. I've had my tailor take out as much as four-five inches in the waist area and the results were really good. Since purple label is slimmer to begin with I have never had to have such dramatic changes but if I am really honest with myself, I think the blue label is more flattering after alterations.......especially for those with drops approaching ten inches. I have not even bothered trying on a black label because I am sure that it won't work for me.

    What is everyone's assessment of the newer blue label? I've heard that some minor changes were made.
     


  10. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    What did the label for RL Signature line look like?
     


  11. polar-lemon

    polar-lemon Senior member

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    What did the label for RL Signature line look like?

    A blue ground label that said in white capital text RALPH LAUREN. I'm sure someone has a pic.
     


  12. polar-lemon

    polar-lemon Senior member

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    I agree with polar-lemon's assessment on the blue labels.....they can be significantly made slimmer without altering the balance of the coat. I've had my tailor take out as much as four-five inches in the waist area and the results were really good. Since purple label is slimmer to begin with I have never had to have such dramatic changes but if I am really honest with myself, I think the blue label is more flattering after alterations.......especially for those with drops approaching ten inches. I have not even bothered trying on a black label because I am sure that it won't work for me. What is everyone's assessment of the newer blue label? I've heard that some minor changes were made.
    Newer blue label isn't in stores yet AFAIK, but from what I understand, it may split the difference between BL and blue label tailoring. The shoulders are supposedly roped, but not padded much at all- slimmer cut overall too. Hopefully the chest and shoulders fit TTS. What might kill it for me is the ultra-wide lapels, which look fashion-y and could make it look like costume as opposed to a business suit. I also really enjoy boglioli. The one I have has a very distinctive silhouette- a low, close 2 button stance like BL, but no shoulder padding at all, natural like Polo. Slightly curved pocket flaps, longer than usual back vents, and flat front pants with a 7.5" leg opening make it very streamlined and slim with subtle detail. Very nice. Like Polo, can easily be altered without having the balance thrown off if you have a large drop.
     


  13. swordfish01

    swordfish01 Active Member

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    TAT for the win!
     


  14. Median

    Median Well-Known Member

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    I drove my friend nuts trying on loads of suits I would never pay retail for on at Barney's yesterday.

    My absolute "whoah" fit straight OTR was an Isaia at $3k! Just blooming fantastic fit and feel.
     


  15. nauticagmo

    nauticagmo Well-Known Member

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    I like the cut on my RLPL Caruso jackets the most so far, though I can see how it might not be for everyone.

    I guess you could say the regular blue RL line is cut a bit more generic, but it still looks very nice to me.
     


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