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Your favorite RTW Shirts Makers

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ernest, Mar 4, 2005.

  1. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I think Flusser was probably biased in his opinion re: whether men wear clothes too baggy or too tight. Most likely, most bespoke clients are of a larger girth (I believe most people go bespoke because they have serious fit issues with RTW; those who do it because they love the control, etc. are probably in the minority). To this extent, I'm sure most of these fat men do wear jackets too tight, simply because it would be tough to find a jacket properly fitting in the shoulders but loose enough around the midsection.

    In addition, Flusser probably saw many men who were wearing 5 year old suits, which fit at age 30 but didn't at age 35 (thanks, McDonalds.).

    Personally, I find that most men of average size wear their jackets too baggy (particularly in the waist) and too wide (in the shoulders). Good tailoring could cure the waist, but the shoulder problem seems intractable (either they are simply wearing the wrong size, or their shoulders are underdeveloped). As for shirts, they are uniformly too baggy. Pants run the gamut from too tight to too loose.
     
  2. slaavwmr

    slaavwmr Senior member

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    I am an advocate of H&K. I don't know how the quality is these days, since the price is down so much, but I really like the collar and the fit of the shirt. Price-wise they are under $100 retail. That is a world of a difference in price from Borrelli. I just ordered my first Borrelli, so I will see how it is. But, H&K is really a nice shirt. Now if only they made non-iron I would be really happy.
     
  3. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    T&A

    fabric
    style
    quality
    stripe matching on split yoke
    the buttons
     
  4. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    But not on the shoulders, as I've been informed (even on MTM)

    koji
     
  5. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    Naive question, but: who the hell needs a $2400 cashmere bourbon drinking shirt? I would be ashamed to own such a thing.
     
  6. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If I may interject with a mordant comment from the peanut gallery:

    Oh, please. Almost anybody who can cut a shirt can match stripes on a split yoke. Matching stripes on the shoulders and sleeve gauntlets are two of the acid tests of a meticulous shirtmaker.
     
  7. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Amen, brother. A split yoke without matched stripes would be unsaleable -- it really sticks out.
     
  8. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Costume National for casual shirts. Great fit. Slim, but with wider shoulders than HL or Jil Sander, and a little more waist suppression. And the deliberately short short hem is great for wearing with jeans (just bought a pair of Da'amge Ice two days ago (Half price on fairly standard cuts/ washes is hard to resist. Am officially banned from any more jeans purchases)
    Also like HL, Jil Sander (best workmanship by far) and Prada (their basic shirt designers are terrific, whatever may be said about the workmanship, etc...)

    Barba and Attolini for dressier shirts. Prefer Barba because of slimmer cuts, more contemporary designs, and (much) better value for the money. I have it on good authority that the person that used to rep Barba in the states dropped the line, and that therefore there is no more Barba available stateside, except perhaps at outlets like FB, and then only occasionally. Runners up include Charvet. Kiton, and Borrelli, in that order.
     
  9. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Agree with LA Guy. I love Barba shirts, the cut is great, the collars lie well, and they use nice fabrics.

    koji
     
  10. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    The shirts I have don't match stripes
     
  11. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If the stripes don't even match on the yoke, you might as well use the shirt as a shoe shine rag. That's disgraceful.
     
  12. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    Originally Posted by ernest,Mar. 04 2005,12:55
    The shirts I have don't match stripes
    If the stripes don't even match on the yoke, you might as well use the shirt as a shoe shine rag. Â That's disgraceful.
    They do on the yoke and cuffs And they do not even make single needle stitching so I do not understand why so much people like this brand more than H&K.
     
  13. philosophe

    philosophe Senior member

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    FYI, Barba fans: Ian Daniels told me he just received 200 shirts.
     
  14. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have a couple shirts by Emile Lafaurie. They have a slim fit and nice collars, but not the best construction. Not really business wear, but slightly different than the usual. Lafaurie shirts
     
  15. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    Well, this is certainly a provocative and apparently original belief.
     

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