Your favorite RTW Shirts Makers

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ernest, Mar 4, 2005.

  1. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    Mine = H&K

    Because :

    - quality of fabrics = good
    - contruction = one of the very best
    - choice = large and classic
    - price = bargain during sales
    - availability = in my city and on the net


    Their after sale service & mail sales = very bad

    You can wait 15 days to have a reply when you send an email.

    I am still waiting the catalogue I should had received 8 months ago in the box of my shirts.
     


  2. Walter

    Walter Senior member

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    I still have to find a RTW shirt that fits.Are H&K slim fitting?
     


  3. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    My answer would be : no. There is some extra fabric at the waist, and they go very very long (I'm 5'7, but still, I wouldn't expect a size 15 shirt to cover all of my butt).
    So, I would say they tend to go on the large size for a european shirt maker.
    Though, it depends what you call "slim fitting". It's definitely not a Helmut Lang shirt.

    .luc
     


  4. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    I wonder if H&K would consider itself a "European" shirtmaker or an English or British one.
     


  5. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

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    Here is my beloved chart. If you see anything strange in it, keep in mind that the width of the seams is included in the measurements so thicker armpit seams can bluff. Also, many makers such as BB source the shirts from different places so YMMV. B
     


  6. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    Mercer & Sons. (at the moment)

    quality of fabrics = very good maybe excellent for their oxford cloth.
    construction = very good attention to detail; hand set collars and cuffs.
    choice = limited, but fine with me. No one does a better roll on their button-downs now that Brooks is in the toilet. I also really like their tennis collar.
    price=reasonable
    availability=private label stores and internet.

    Their service=superlative.


    (of the Brits, I've been quite happy with New & Lingwood - though I wish their selection were a little larger).
     


  7. KevinR

    KevinR Well-Known Member

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    With my limited experiance I really like my RL phillip and Alcott shirts.

    I wear 17 1/2 so most shirts are maternity gowns on me. But these really fit well. And the arm holes are at the right spot on me. It seems that alot of shirts give me the equivelent of a droopy crouch in the arm pit area.
     


  8. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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    Mine = Kiton

    Because :

    - quality of fabrics = excellent--especially the thin breathable ones for humid hot summers
    - contruction = lots of hand work/one of the very best
    - choice = large and varied
    - price = ouch
    - availability = NM/Barneys NY/Louis Boston/Wilks Barrow/etc


    Their after sale service & mail sales = above retailers all have sales people who provide top notch after sales service
     


  9. Kaga

    Kaga Senior member

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    IMMSMC H&K, like most good British shirts, are designed to be very long in order to stay tucked in.  Most cheaper makers save money on fabric by skipping this step.

    I like Charvet RTW, although the cut is slimmer in France and much more... American... in America.

    Kiton may be nice but even I don't want to spend 100,000 yen on a shirt.
     


  10. Walter

    Walter Senior member

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    The whole "baggy vs slim fit" thing is puzzling. Everybody says corporate America wears its clothes too baggy, whereas A.Flusser mentioned in his book that American men wear their jackets too snug. [​IMG] Each time I go to the US, I go to AZ, and nobody really wears a jacket there so I cannot check for myself...
     


  11. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Don't get me wrong Kiton is good, but there's better.

    Jon.
     


  12. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

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    What RTW brands do you think are better than Kiton?
     


  13. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Matuozzo's RTW.
     


  14. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

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    http://66.170.193.77/cgi-bin....atuozzo Reading prior threads, the Matuozzo shirts sound seriously expensive ($800? $1000?) as well as difficult, if not impossible, to find in America. At those prices why not go bespoke? I mean, if you've got enough cash to buy a $1k RTW shirt, why not up the ante and get Mr. Kabbaz to make you a cashmere bourbon drinking shirt for two grand? (I hope I'm remembering the price/description accurately--apologies if I'm not.)
     


  15. bryce330

    bryce330 Senior member

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    I think my overall favorite is Barba. The most important factor to me is fit, and Barba is the only good RTW shirt that truly has a consistently slim fit. The materials and construction are excellent, and the price is surprisingly reasonable. The only downside is availability, as they are nearly impossible to find in the US (other than on eBay and Yoox).

    I'm also not a big fan of Kiton shirts - the additional level of handwork they have compared to Borrelli does not justify the outrageous prices, IMO, and the fit tends to be somewhat blousy. I also don't like the buttons, both the thinness of them and the brownish coloring.
     


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