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Your favorite RTW Shirts Makers

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ernest, Mar 4, 2005.

  1. ernest

    ernest Senior member

    Messages:
    2,564
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2004
    Location:
    PARIS
    Mine = H&K

    Because :

    - quality of fabrics = good
    - contruction = one of the very best
    - choice = large and classic
    - price = bargain during sales
    - availability = in my city and on the net


    Their after sale service & mail sales = very bad

    You can wait 15 days to have a reply when you send an email.

    I am still waiting the catalogue I should had received 8 months ago in the box of my shirts.
     
  2. Walter

    Walter Senior member

    Messages:
    332
    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2005
    Location:
    Brussels,Belgium
    I still have to find a RTW shirt that fits.Are H&K slim fitting?
     
  3. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

    Messages:
    1,586
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2005
    Location:
    Paris, France
    My answer would be : no. There is some extra fabric at the waist, and they go very very long (I'm 5'7, but still, I wouldn't expect a size 15 shirt to cover all of my butt).
    So, I would say they tend to go on the large size for a european shirt maker.
    Though, it depends what you call "slim fitting". It's definitely not a Helmut Lang shirt.

    .luc
     
  4. Horace

    Horace Senior member

    Messages:
    1,447
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    I wonder if H&K would consider itself a "European" shirtmaker or an English or British one.
     
  5. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

    Messages:
    503
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2002
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Here is my beloved chart. If you see anything strange in it, keep in mind that the width of the seams is included in the measurements so thicker armpit seams can bluff. Also, many makers such as BB source the shirts from different places so YMMV. B
     
  6. Horace

    Horace Senior member

    Messages:
    1,447
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Mercer & Sons. (at the moment)

    quality of fabrics = very good maybe excellent for their oxford cloth.
    construction = very good attention to detail; hand set collars and cuffs.
    choice = limited, but fine with me. No one does a better roll on their button-downs now that Brooks is in the toilet. I also really like their tennis collar.
    price=reasonable
    availability=private label stores and internet.

    Their service=superlative.


    (of the Brits, I've been quite happy with New & Lingwood - though I wish their selection were a little larger).
     
  7. KevinR

    KevinR Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    49
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2004
    Location:
    Dearborn, MI
    With my limited experiance I really like my RL phillip and Alcott shirts.

    I wear 17 1/2 so most shirts are maternity gowns on me. But these really fit well. And the arm holes are at the right spot on me. It seems that alot of shirts give me the equivelent of a droopy crouch in the arm pit area.
     
  8. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

    Messages:
    5,496
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Mine = Kiton

    Because :

    - quality of fabrics = excellent--especially the thin breathable ones for humid hot summers
    - contruction = lots of hand work/one of the very best
    - choice = large and varied
    - price = ouch
    - availability = NM/Barneys NY/Louis Boston/Wilks Barrow/etc


    Their after sale service & mail sales = above retailers all have sales people who provide top notch after sales service
     
  9. Kaga

    Kaga Senior member

    Messages:
    382
    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2004
    Location:
    KS Prefecture
    IMMSMC H&K, like most good British shirts, are designed to be very long in order to stay tucked in.  Most cheaper makers save money on fabric by skipping this step.

    I like Charvet RTW, although the cut is slimmer in France and much more... American... in America.

    Kiton may be nice but even I don't want to spend 100,000 yen on a shirt.
     
  10. Walter

    Walter Senior member

    Messages:
    332
    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2005
    Location:
    Brussels,Belgium
    The whole "baggy vs slim fit" thing is puzzling. Everybody says corporate America wears its clothes too baggy, whereas A.Flusser mentioned in his book that American men wear their jackets too snug. [​IMG] Each time I go to the US, I go to AZ, and nobody really wears a jacket there so I cannot check for myself...
     
  11. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

    Messages:
    20,008
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2004
    Location:
    New York City / Buenos Aires
    Don't get me wrong Kiton is good, but there's better.

    Jon.
     
  12. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

    Messages:
    1,099
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2004
    Location:
    Manhattan
    What RTW brands do you think are better than Kiton?
     
  13. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

    Messages:
    6,117
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2003
    Location:
    sage
    Matuozzo's RTW.
     
  14. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

    Messages:
    1,099
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2004
    Location:
    Manhattan
    http://66.170.193.77/cgi-bin....atuozzo Reading prior threads, the Matuozzo shirts sound seriously expensive ($800? $1000?) as well as difficult, if not impossible, to find in America. At those prices why not go bespoke? I mean, if you've got enough cash to buy a $1k RTW shirt, why not up the ante and get Mr. Kabbaz to make you a cashmere bourbon drinking shirt for two grand? (I hope I'm remembering the price/description accurately--apologies if I'm not.)
     
  15. bryce330

    bryce330 Senior member

    Messages:
    804
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2003
    I think my overall favorite is Barba. The most important factor to me is fit, and Barba is the only good RTW shirt that truly has a consistently slim fit. The materials and construction are excellent, and the price is surprisingly reasonable. The only downside is availability, as they are nearly impossible to find in the US (other than on eBay and Yoox).

    I'm also not a big fan of Kiton shirts - the additional level of handwork they have compared to Borrelli does not justify the outrageous prices, IMO, and the fit tends to be somewhat blousy. I also don't like the buttons, both the thinness of them and the brownish coloring.
     
  16. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

    Messages:
    6,117
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2003
    Location:
    sage
    The prices you give are for her bespoke offerings... her RTW prices are much much cheaper.
     
  17. mxb95

    mxb95 Active Member

    Messages:
    42
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2003
    Location:
    Singapore
    My favorite: Charvet.

    I've found that Charvet RTW fits me well and also wears well. I also like the fabrics and, since I prefer french cuffs, the style as well.

    T&A is a close second. I prefer the T&A collar style, but find that T&A RTW doesn't fit quite as well.
     
  18. drljva

    drljva Senior member

    Messages:
    302
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2004
    Location:
    Seattle
    For me, it's Borrelli (for the fit/hand-work, espcially how comfortable the collars are...) and Charvet (simple, elegant shirts that hold up well over time). Someone also mentioned Barba, which I also have come to like in the past year or so.
     
  19. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

    Messages:
    13,141
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2004
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Among English shirtmakers, I'm partial to Coles and T&A (although they have serious issues with the customer service) and I also enjoy Borrelli, Barba, Carlo Franco, and other shirts. I have a pretty broad assortments of dress shirts from various makers.
     
  20. tdial

    tdial Senior member

    Messages:
    248
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2004
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    I'm a Borrelli guy--definitely at the top of my price comfort level at full retail for a RTW shirt, but an excellent shirt in styling, fabric, and construction.

    I agree about Barba. Maybe one of you should become a Barba rep and get them some distribution in the US (as well as some discounts for StyleForum and AA members, of course.).

    Truzzi also makes a nice shirt, but again, have only gotten them through Ian Daniels.
     

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