Your favorite lining

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Manton

OK, if you are game, I would like an explanation of how lining affects the fit. This one has me stumped.
I must have explained badly. I was trying to say that when I switched to suits that actually fit, I also switched to silk, so I am unable to compare Bemberg and silk in a useful way.

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by iammatt

I am not sure my observation about the slipperiness is all that useful. Since I started getting bespoke suits, I have been using silk. They fit me better and are unlikely to slip anyway, so that could be the difference. My previous suits had bemberg, but did not fit as well.

Unlined sleeves are nice for cotton and linen, but not so good for wool. At least, that is what I have been told.

Does R. prefer silk? Does he steer customers towards it?

I agree that for cotton and linen unlined sleeves would work - at least it does on my ones. I imagine that it could be done with "dry" wools such as frescos and mohair blends. I am sure my tailor would raise his eyebrows if I suggested it.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by iammatt

I must have explained badly. I was trying to say that when I switched to suits that actually fit, I also switched to silk, so I am unable to compare Bemberg and silk in a useful way.
Ah, OK.

Originally Posted by Sator

I imagine that it could be done with "dry" wools such as frescos and mohair blends. I am sure my tailor would raise his eyebrows if I suggested it.

A friend of mine got a heavy mohair/wool, fresco weave, completely unlined. He loves it. I have the same cloth, not made up. Maybe I will try it.

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by Manton

A friend of mine got a heavy mohair/wool, fresco weave, completely unlined. He loves it. I have the same cloth, not made up. Maybe I will try it.

I'd be interested to see how it goes. I might consider it for the next southern hemisphere summer. I am pulling out lengths of Lesser 13 and 16 Oz worsteds from storage at the moment.

I've yet to try a mohair-wool fresco. Does it run cooler than pure wool fresco?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Sator

I've yet to try a mohair-wool fresco. Does it run cooler than pure wool fresco?

Haven't worn it myself. He says it's fine if there's a breeze, death in still air and warm weather.

I don't know the weight, but it's heavy. I would say 14 or so. It's going to be sort of a novelty suit for me. The sheen says "summer" but the weight says "fall." There's no way I could wear it in summer, no matter how porous it is.

 

[gdl203]

Why is slippery bad for a lining? Intuitively, I would think that the more slippery the lining the better, allowing more fluidity with body movements.

For example, my 1/2, 1/4 and unlined coats can sometimes bunch in the back from the friction with my shirt or waistband - a bemberg-lined back never does that and always fall nicely

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Sator

I've yet to try a mohair-wool fresco. Does it run cooler than pure wool fresco?

I have two, but they are like 8 oz, so I am sure they wouldn't interest the two of you. Nevertheless, they do wear cool.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by iammatt

I have two, but they are like 8 oz, so I am sure they wouldn't interest the two of you.

Don't confuse me with Mr. Frock Coat is Fine at the Beach. I like heavy cloth, but not in summer. I have 8 ounce mohairs that I love, 8 ounce tropicals that I love, and 8/9 frescos that I love. I just don't have any lightweight mohair frescos.

You have an advantage in that you can get Woodehouse easily, and they make a lot of killer lightweight cloth for the Italian market. The only time it turns up over here is in odd bolts at Tip Top. When I see it, I buy it.

 

[Despos]

Woodehouse is in the GRM line. The twills say Woodehouse on the book and the other cloths are under the GRM name.

 

[Sator]

For beachwear I do go light actually. In the sweltering heat of Sydney, it is necessary for survival.

The frock coat however needs heftier stuff

 

[gdl203]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Why is slippery bad for a lining? Intuitively, I would think that the more slippery the lining the better, allowing more fluidity with body movements.

For example, my 1/2, 1/4 and unlined coats can sometimes bunch in the back from the friction with my shirt or waistband - a bemberg-lined back never does that and always fall nicely

^^^

Does this make any sense or am I just showing my ignorance level again?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by gdl203

^^^

Does this make any sense or am I just showing my ignorance level again?

No, that's what I thougt too. Slippery is the whole point. With unlined or half lined, the advantage is coolness, but the disadvantage is they might stick a little bit, and they wrinkle a little worse.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by Manton

No, that's what I thougt too. Slippery is the whole point. With unlined or half lined, the advantage is coolness, but the disadvantage is they might stick a little bit, and they wrinkle a little worse.

I feel cooler in summer wearing batiste, linen or voile shirts than the amount of lining in my jacket.

 

[babygreenspots]

Originally Posted by Manton

No, that's what I thougt too. Slippery is the whole point. With unlined or half lined, the advantage is coolness, but the disadvantage is they might stick a little bit, and they wrinkle a little worse.

Once, I made the stupid mistake of using a very thin cotton as a lining for a summer suit. I was thinking it be more breathable, which it was, but the fabric constantly bunched and got caught on my shirts.

This was a full-lining but I would be interested to see how half and quarter linings would work. Would a linen or cotton suit that is half lined have the same problems with bunching? Perhaps the half-lined approach only works in less fitted garments?

 

[Kaizen]

Does anyone know of a good source for more unusual lining fabrics? I'd like find some with a fleur de lis pattern, especially if it's a deep red.