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yoke on a shirt - how should it fit?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mumbojumbo, Apr 6, 2006.

  1. mumbojumbo

    mumbojumbo Senior Member

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    Hello from a long time lurker.

    Can someone please elaborate on the proper fit of the shirt yoke.

    Should the "length of armhole side of yoke" (at the shoulder joint) just be as long so that both the front and back yoke seams lay on the top/edges of the shoulder (e.g http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8616/n8.jpg)?

    Is there a rule of thumb for the height of the yoke (from neck down to center of the yoke on the back) for normal/perpendicular posture, sloping shoulders and slim build?

    Can someone please provide some pictures of a well fitting shirt yoke.

    best regards
     


  2. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Answering this question would take longer then I want to spend on the computer this morning.

    Sorry no photos.

    Easy rule. Find the two boney bumps at the end of the shoulder. That is where the yoke should end.

    There are of course other variables.

    Carl


    www.cego.com
     


  3. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Distinguished Member

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    Like this:

    [​IMG]

    And the rest is like this:

    [​IMG]
     


  4. mumbojumbo

    mumbojumbo Senior Member

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    Thank you Carl and Alexander for your replys. Maybe i wasn't clear enough about what measurements i am interested in. They are the yellow and the green ones shown in the attached picture. Attachment 55 Is it correct that the yellow line should start just at the shoulder bone end? best regards
    [​IMG]
     


  5. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Distinguished Member

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    Yes, but it is less a matter of bone and more a matter of appearance:

    If you look back at the first diagram I posted, the yoke for a normal dress shirt (not an "oversize" shirt) should end just at the point where the eye would judge the shoulder to change from horizontal to vertical.

    This is easy to determine on square-shouldered men.

    Some men have very round shoulders. In that case, the yoke should end about midway 'round the curve just where a tangent to the curve would reach a 45° angle from horizontal. This will tend to minimize the appearance of the curve.
     


  6. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, but it is less a matter of bone and more a matter of appearance:

    If you look back at the first diagram I posted, the yoke for a normal dress shirt (not an "oversize" shirt) should end just at the point where the eye would judge the shoulder to change from horizontal to vertical.

    This is easy to determine on square-shouldered men.

    Some men have very round shoulders. In that case, the yoke should end about midway 'round the curve just where a tangent to the curve would reach a 45° angle from horizontal. This will tend to minimize the appearance of the curve.


    That is very enlightening Alex. Would it be fair to say that as the overarm measure increases relative to the chest and shoulder, the appearance of where the shoulder would be becomes a bit wider?
     


  7. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Distinguished Member

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    Not necessarily. The overarm measurement will increase with corpulence as well as with muscle size. With corpulence, the increase tends to be ... errrr ... uhhh ... rounding. With muscle size increase the added inches tend to be more angular and have less of an effect on the shoulder->arm curve.

    John Basdow (sp?) would be a good example of a body with a large overarm measurment yet with angular shoulders. Tony Soprano would illustrate the opposite end of the spectrum.
     


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