Yoke Height/Depth... what is best?

[Jay687]

I have been trying to figure out what makes my MT shirt tight when moving my arms in front of me. And I figure it out. The yoke is far too tall/deep and the seam falls against my shoulder blades. So, rather than the fabric beneath the yoke seam being there for movement, it's all on the yoke seam... which isn't exactly stretchy.

So, I'd think the yoke needs to cut fairly high on the back for a better fit... but anyone have any experience?

How should the yoke seam fit compared to your body? I'm curious if higher is better or if things could be too high...

 

[Jay687]

An example of what seems pretty high...

This is a shirtmaven shirt that I found in another post:

And here's another that seems to be a good height:

So curious as to what people think is the proper placement for yoke.

 

[Jay687]

bump...

 

[pendragon]

Paging Shirtmaven.

 

[Jay687]

lol... well his help would be much appreciated, but anyone who could even look at their own shirts they find comfortable and see how high the yoke is, that'd be good info too. It seems most of my shirts really have the yokes a bit low I think because I'm shorter and so my back is also smaller...

 

[Trompe le Monde]

why dont you consolidate all of your threads into 1: "how do i dress myself ? "

 

[hendrix]

this is true for me too: the shirt may be perfectly fitted to my shoulder width, but because of the low yolk and the fact that my back is quite muscular, my movement is limited. If i increase the chest measurements, it just makes the fit baggy.

i might try finding an online tailor which has yolk variations.

 

[Jay687]

Well MT does have an additional notes spot for that type of thing. But still trying to figure out what a good measurement is.

 

[Jay687]

Anyone?

 

[Orionlyessa]

I have been trying to figure out what makes my MT shirt tight when moving my arms in front of me. And I figure it out. The yoke is far too tall/deep and the seam falls against my shoulder blades. So, rather than the fabric beneath the yoke seam being there for movement, it's all on the yoke seam... which isn't exactly stretchy.

So, I'd think the yoke needs to cut fairly high on the back for a better fit... but anyone have any experience?

Hi, I thought of you when I read this quote from "Shirtmaking: Developing Skills For Fine Sewing" by David Coffin -

"A yoke is vital to a shirt. It provides extra strength in the area bearing the weight of the shirt. It conceals the seams at the shoulder, keeping them away from the top of the shoulder, where they might rub uncomfortably. It allows the front and back to be shaped to the wearer's shoulders without darts. And it serves as a basic design detail of the shirt.

"The classic shirt has a narrow yoke, measured from front to back at the shoulder. Wide yokes that fall lower on the back shoulder are distinctly sporty in effect. They can also interfere with the ease of movement offered by the shirt back by positioning the pleat, and thus the give, below the area where moving the arms forward creates tension across the back. My Brooks Brothers shirt yoke is only 1 5/8 in. wide at the shoulder. A yoke more than 2 in. wide at the shoulder seems to me too sporty for a dress shirt for a man.

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