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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Let's hope fashionchannel gives us the A/W 1996 show soon...
     


  2. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    I literally just came back to the hotel from Yohji Conduit Street in London! Tried on quite a few blazers, not pants ( I ain't a Hakamas person ). Don't remember seeing thar green blazer in store but I tried on the Look 32 Napolean Cubism Jacket in HK in sz 2 & 3 back in March. It's the same cut I think, but Look 32 is 808 blend ( almost shirt thin ) whereas the " Oxford Green " Look 33 is linen 307 so it's naturally stiffer.

    My feeling is whilst I'm a natural sz 2 for YYPH in most seasons, Look 32 is more comfortable in sz 3 and more fitted in sz 2. Since it's supposed to worn unbuttoned, I'll take sz 2 myself. For most blazers I tried in the store today, only one linen boxy cut 3B non runway blazer fitted me comfortably in sz 2, the other 5 or 6 blazers I tried on fitted perfectly ( with a slight long sleeve feel ) in sz 3 so I think we generally have to size up for SS12 especially if you're gonna buy stuff untried online or in auctions.

    2 visits to a Yohji retail, in HK and London, confirmed SS12 is indeed a stellar collection. That 010 fabric is awesomely soft & very delicate & will move nicely if chosen the right size :)
     


  3. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yeah, a lot of stuff seemed to fit pretty close this season. I just went with size 4 for everything I picked up, but pants are almost all size 3 funny enough. Guess that's due to the hakama style cut meaning most things were free sized. The cropped pants I picked up are also a size 3 and fit me perfectly. Still wish I can pick up the stand collar jacket in a 4.

    Still a bit disappointed that I missed out on that look 32 Napoleon jacket. Still my most wanted jacket from this collection because it captures the majority of the influences for the jackets from this collection - the cubist pattern on the back, the Western military styling. Already got hakamas so have the Eastern pants part of the collection covered, hehe.

    Looking forward to his Spring 2013 show with some trepidation now - are my expectations too high? Or will he step up to the plate like he has time and time again?
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2012


  4. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    [​IMG]


    Taken from Acne Paper magazine Spring 2012 editorial "Circus Maximus"
     


  5. sshum

    sshum Active Member

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    Thanks to everyone who responded about the green Napolean jacket. The green looks much lighter in the runway pic, but then again I imagine they used much brighter lights. I'll see if I can get the store to take some pics in daylight for reference.

    Also how many variations of the hakama pants were released for this collection? There is always something new to learn here as I always thought the black hakama (N-type) and the ecru/beige hakamas (Type 1) were the same. Actually I was able to try on the blue ones (I think) earlier this year shown here:

    [​IMG]

    I always thought they were the same as my black ones - pretty sure that the material is the same though. The store also had these ones:

    [​IMG]

    I really love the pattern of these ones and in the store, they didn't seem to pop out as much as in the runway. It just seemed much more subtle. This version doesn't have any pockets and when standing still, were quite a bit wider than the blue ones I tried. The fabrics are quite different but I felt the cut was much wider. Standing still it looked like I was wearing a full skirt.

    And is this the cubism jacket referenced above (#32)?

    [​IMG]

    It looks like a beautiful jacket with the way the collar is styled.
     


  6. valter

    valter Senior member

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    Yohji Yamamoto, his dream : to match Picasso!


    Yohji Yamamoto : his outlook on the young generation of designers


    Yohji Yamamoto rewarded. Introspection on 40 Years of Creation
     


  7. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Yes that is Look 32 Napolean Cubism Jacket, the Oxford Green Napolean Jacket iis Look 33. Please check on Vogue Yohji Catwalk images and Yohjji website for confirmation.
     


  8. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    what a wonderful thread.

    Parker :worship2:
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2012


  9. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    second video. i would kill to present my work infront of yohji and marc ascoli. thanks for those.
     


  10. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Based on the price list there were 11 hakamas that went into production and were shown on the runway. Some of the letters at the end seem to signify differences in the print pattern used on them (like in the I - Hakama series, apart from D which is the one with the tortoiseshell print from look 4 that you tried on. Dunno why it is called an I- Hakama as it looks completely different from the others which are the tapered hakamas with the buttons on the ankle)

    1. I - Hakama A
    2. I - Hakama B
    3. I - Hakama C
    4. I - Hakama D
    5. I - Hakama E
    6. YY Hakama Pants Type 1
    7. YY Hakama Pants Type 2
    8. N - Hakama A
    9. N - Hakama B
    10. N - Hakama D
    11. W - Hakama

    Anyway, I think I sent you the price list? If you have a look at that you should be able to see which model name and letter corresponds to which hakama on the runway. And yeah, the blue one is the same as the cotton one you picked up.

    Kiko, thanks for posting those videos! I especially found the one on young designers to be pretty on the money, especially with Yohji saying that there's a wind coming that could be a great opportunity for fresh creators.
     


  11. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    quick fit post. got my two jackets from japan and an pair of vintage (80's) trousers. the jacket it's size 1 with code HT - J27 - 100. I wore it the other day for my crit and the first thing that my menswear tutor asked me was: "Is this Yohji from 90's?" it's funny how the fabric speaks more than the design in a way. also the buttons on the pants are the same all of his current trousers. impressive consistency.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     


  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Good stuff dantebykiko. I especially like the pants. Very cool that the buttons are the same style now as they were in the 80s. I wonder whether it is the same manufacturer that makes them for him?

    Quick fit pic for me as well -

    Picked up this lab coat from asobu a few months back and love how light it is. The edges of the pockets, lapel and sleeves are beginning to fray ever so slightly and it adds so much character. The fabric is almost translucent because of how light it is and it makes for an awesome effect whenever a bit of breeze blows by. Been meaning to pair it with actual cropped wide pants like the ones I picked up from ln-cc so couldn't wait to put this all together.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2012


  13. brad-t

    brad-t Bae Blade

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    It really makes me think of Kiryuyrik napoleon jacket :O

    [​IMG]
     


  14. Synthese

    Synthese Darth Millennial Dubiously Honored

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    parker that shit shit is too legit. never stop.
     


  15. hoozah

    hoozah Senior member

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    yeah you pull YY off surprisingly well.
     


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