Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Thanks guys!

    dantebykiko Yeah, I almost wore them without proper socks today, but I liked the extra block of colour the socks added. Tomorrow will wear them without socks though :devil:

    asobu The pants are this season actually! Got them from ln-cc in a size 3. Looks like they only got in a limited stock though as they are sold out already :/. They are drawstring pants with a low drop crotch and white topstitching and very nice indeed.
     


  2. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    nice ivwri! that shirt is super cool, too.

    wearing the white hakama pants and new hat today! the pants are soo nice to wear. I feel like I'm floating or should be doing some karate or meditation.

    [​IMG]
     


  3. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    That is a wonderful look Parker. Love how the pants look with a bit of breeze moving them about. Really great. What jacket is that by the way?
     


  4. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    thanks mate. yeah, it's really windy here today, too. that's another one of those linen uniqlo shirt-jacks, with blazer fronts and a shirt collar. I guess one of those yohji color block jackets would really be ideal. but, I gotta do with what I got!
     


  5. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    Super awesome look Parker. Would bite it all ahah!!

    So it's a cotton but not an oatmeal fleece like sweatpants, correct? Any drops on a size that would fit me :D ?
     


  6. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    thx dude. yeah, they're like an ecru color, heather cotton jersey with a silk waistband. I think most of the hakamas are size 3... which feel enormous at first because there's so much room, but you kinda get used to it and it becomes the best part ;-) you can adjust the waist with tabs, so really unless you're reeeeeally short. the 3 should work fine. I also got a black wool pair in size 2 which is a bit smaller and shorter all around.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  7. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    Wow great shots. Thanks for the info as well!!
     


  8. sshum

    sshum Active Member

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    Just want to say thanks to all the active contributors here and the valuable information that have been shared. I've been a big time fan of Yohji's work but with very limited access to his works over the years, it was such a big risk to purchase anything. And anything that I did try on seem overly massive on me. Yes, I understood that it may have been the intent but you have to wear a piece that you feel comfortable in. I think that is the advice that helped me to take a leap and start working Yohji into my wardrobe.

    I have the SS!! black hakama in that soft cotton jersey but when compared to the pics of the cream/white color pair showing the waist enclosure, I'm surprised that they are not exactly the same. The waist on mine are just adjusted via 3 buttons on each side of the waistband so you choose where to want to place the buttons. I haven't found the occasion to wear it here in Singapore yet but hoping to do so soon. It doesn't help that most of my clothes are sitting in Canada so it limits what I can pair the hakamas with. I like them enough that I want the wool gabardine ones as well but with so many strong pieces in the upcoming FW12 collection, I'm not sure if I can afford to pick those up as well.

    I've been eyeing this piece and wonder if anyone here has handled this in person? I'm curios as to what the fabric is like, the weight of the jacket and the fit? In the picture, it almost looks too fitted...if that makes any sense, but perhaps this style requires it to be worn that way.

    [​IMG]

    I'm always looking for some color to break up all the blacks / greys that I have. It's a piece that may be hard to work into a regular rotation and I'm no where close to a place that has this.
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2012


  9. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I can't really comment on the fabric or weight, but I do have some info on sizing below. I emailed Ikkon about that jacket. I would definitely err on the looser side, even though it's mean to be somewhat fitted.

    Size 2
    chest = 102cm (40.2")
    shoulders = 44.5cm (17.5")

    Size 3
    chest measures = 106cm (41.7")
    shoulders = 46cm (18.1")

    here's the runway photo of that jacket. the hands-in-pockets-while-walking helps it look more relaxed, but it also just looks looser fitting here than in that e-store photo.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2012


  10. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    The fabric on Parker's pants is like a 200 gram'ish (? I'm guessing here) cotton (possibly blend of rayon, silk, or modal, didn't check but the hand is really nice) doubleknit, and then a blend voile waistband. Basically like a really insanely nice tee shirt fabric on the heavier side, but too light to make normal sweatpants. If tees could be made from that stuff, they'd be the ultimate tee.
     


  11. cowerd

    cowerd Senior member

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    Looks much better than the [very] uncomfortable dude from IKKON. Styling of Yohji on brick/mortar webstores is really strange, even LN-CC and Atelier sell using traditional photography and pose. Many also seem to try to make the clothes fit normally and push models into size 2. If not for this thread and the runway images, it would seem that the clothes have no life and no interest.

    I wonder which photo is actually closest to color of jacket? Runway green is much more interesting.
     


  12. valter

    valter Senior member

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    I think that most of the YYPH sold on internet stores looks way too fitted mainly because they don't use the right sizes on the models. For example at LN-CC, the jackets on the model are usually size 2 when the size 4 would give the proper "Yohji fit" for people of that size.
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2012


  13. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    sshum, those hakamas you have are a different cut to the one Parker picked up. Yours are look 7 and are also called the N-type hakama pants while Parker's are the Type 1 hakamas. impolyt_one's description of the fabric makes it sound really great. Wish I paid more attention to it when I had the opportunity to handle it in the store.


    Indeed, pretty terrible how no online store seems to style Yohji correctly. At least editorials seem to get it right though. I wonder whether they style it slimmer deliberately so as not to alienate or confuse potential customers. Ikkon for example has gone out of their way to make Yohji seem very conservative for the most part from my estimation.

    As for the colour of that linen jacket, asobu would probably be in the best position to comment because I think he saw it in person at one of the flagships. From what he said, it seems the runway photo might be closer to the real shade of green as he described it as being pastel-ly.
     


  14. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    I didn't see that particular jacket but I guess the fabric/color is the same for L34. I think it's possibly less pastel than I remember it after having seen it in a few pics online. In my memory it was a pretty strong green shade but I didn't pay much attention tbh since the color didn't do anything for me and it was never something I was that interested in. I think the lighting at the show makes it come off a touch stronger than it does in natural light, I expect it to be a bit deeper in person. My memory is terrible so I can't remember the shade now, it's been three months since I saw it, hehe. I do remember telling you that it's pastel-y though, Ivwri, but it'd be best to get a second opinion on this matter, lol. I'm sure the linen fabric is very nice though.


    The fabric in Parker's hakamas does sound amazing from impolyt's description... and Parker is killing it wearing them, great look. :slayer:
    Edit: seeing this fit sold me on them, now I want a pair..!
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2012


  15. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Thought I would drop in a few images I had seen on tumblr.

    装苑 so-en Japanese fashion magazine

    June 2004

    Yohji yamamoto

    [​IMG]


    Erin Wasson in Yohji Yamamoto photographed by Patrick Demarchelier for Harper’s Bazaar February ‘02

    [​IMG]


    Not sure where this is from, it's supposed to be 1983 though

    [​IMG]


    FW 1996

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2012


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