Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

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    ^ that the whole collection? maybe needs to be seen in person but one of the least inspiring, from the pics at least.
     
  2. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    not the whole collection, just the looks that in my opinion can be worn easily with his mainline. also the opening of s/s 08 it's quite nice.

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  3. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Some people may dismiss and rubbish Y-3 too readily but some stuff in the collections ( especially Exclusives ) definitely have the Yohji vibe and can mix well with the " serious " YYPH/Y's pieces.

    Check out these 2 Exclusive Looks from the Y-3 SS11 Runway, the supersized satin suspender pants in both are Yohji in style. The satin jackets have similar design to the signature Napolean Cubism Jackets of YYPH SS12. So if anything, YYPH line copied ideas from Y-3 from 2 seasons ago.

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  4. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Precisely the point. If one is shown these 2 pictures and is told they were from a YYPH Runway he will believe it.
     
  5. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    I think this is an interesting discussion, but I'm not really clear on my thoughts on this. I agree that there is a line where stuff looks off (i guess) or intentionally oversized/non-fitting, but that line is surely very fleeting, in that it shifts with our changing perception, and is obviously very subjective. For the general, non-interested party (general public? I dunno) pretty much any YY collection would look ill-fitting. I disucssed this with Ivwri before but my guess is that even a lot of members on SW&D who generally appreciate the YY looks posted in WAYWT would still slam on pretty much any given look from, say, SS07 if it was presented in WAYWT without the runway frame of reference, and possibly even within this (no judgement here). SS07 is just an example, but it's a pretty recent collection and that stuff is still intentionally and extremely precisely cut/patterened (he's called "Mr Cut" after all, apparently). Going back even further, the older collections (mid 90's to 02/03) would overall pretty much garner the same thoughts across the boards. Patterns and cuts have definitely changed over the years (shouders have narrowed quite a bit in general) but in essence he's still working in the same space. I think here we often want things to look a little "off" or playing with proportions but in general we still want to keep the fit within a certain framework to apprecitate it - once the balance is "too" off we think it doesn't look good anymore, but isn't this part of what he has been doing all along? I'm not sure if I'm coming across clearly here, I'm not really sure myself of what I want to say, lol.

    I personally think that some of the shorter guys look best in Yohji, for me it somehow nails the look I think - wire.artist looked astonishing in person, the balance of what he was wearing was just so good on him. I do like it when a coat is very very long (like david alluded to) or sleeves are on the overly long side.

    For his SS98 show he referenced his one-size approach. The theme was something along the line of "one size for all of mankind" where he showed all the clothes in the same size but with models in various shapes


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  6. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Haha, it's getting more and more interesting. So it's not just oversizeness but HOW MUCH oversizeness one's willing to accept to define fit. I will add fabrics play a huge part in achieving the " look " . Soft hand materials give more " space " in motion, complementing the general oversized cut of the garment. What I mean is two people of the same height; one skinny and the other stocky, will achieve a similar look wearing the same oversized blazer with a flowing fabric.
     
  7. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    I'm on my phone so I'll keep it short, but there is of course plenty of ways to "modernize" or re-contextualise these older pieces too. This recent, relatively popular tumblr pic is one example - fittingly i'm pretty sure this could be a s/s 98 jacket (given it is yohji):

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    I'm also looking for a jacket like this ! Looking at it again, this actually this isn't far from how some of his mid-90s spring looks looked like
     
  8. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

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    that ss98 was incredible :drool:
     
  9. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    I agree that I actually prefer Yohji on some shorter guys myself. That whole slouchy/kinda homeless/fit really appeals to me in some way, hehe. Again I will just say that it is all about the attitude for me. My appreciation of Yohji's collections and clothing items in general has altered what I consider to be a good fit to be honest.

    That SS98 collection is indeed incredible and I wish he would do a new iteration of that. Would be nice to see what the passage of time has done to some of his older concepts and whether he would approach them in the same way.

    I do wish he got such varied models for his women's collections though. Would be great to see shorter and chubbier women in his clothing as well instead of the usual slim and tall model.
     
  10. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Inside the Yohji empire, Limi Feu does use models of different statues for her Runway shows. Her designs are amazing ...... and fun :nodding:
     
  11. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    me too, ivwri, but using bigger girls is probably a harder sell in the women's market, than the men's. ^^ thanks for posting that 98 collection, asobu. the one size for all idea is pretty fun. and i think it kinda gets back to the idea that his clothes disguise/hide the body (vs. enhance it / show it off).
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    Last edited: Jun 5, 2012
  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Indeed! I really like the shows I have seen so far. Different vibe but some pretty cool stuff. I am hoping to pick up some of her stuff for my wife next month :slayer:
    Hmm, I wonder though. All this talk about how skinny models are and creating a better body image for women could at least provide an angle into the whole thing. Would be so cool and would stand out during PFW if for nothing else than that a designer of his calibre did it. Would be pretty ballsy too. Like davidlee said, Limi does it and it works great. I also wonder why Yohji seemed to use more black models in his earlier collections than in his more recent stuff, maybe they changed agencies? EDIT: We should put up more Limi stuff actually. Anyone wanna volunteer? hehe
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2012
  13. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Two that are in my wife's collection:-

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    Limi Feu SS12 Rayon Dress
    Stupendous fabric and construction, body is heavily pleated ( hard to see in picture ) and sleeves have " foam " rings that keep the shape, superb.

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    Limi Feu AW11 Wool Oversized Cardigan
    Note the use of short model made this piece becoming a dress almost, super drop-shouldered construction, very 80s Yohji :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2012
  14. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Limi Feu AW11-12 Collection


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  15. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    i will try and take couple of photos of howard tangye, he it's womenswear path tutor in my college (csm). he it's little shorter than me 1,75m and wears yohji head-to-toe. seeing him everyday probably it's the reason i turn to yohji clothes. so effortless and timeless.

    http://www.howardtangye.com/Drawings.html

    http://victoriajonesillustration.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/howard-tangye-drawing-masterclass.html

    also i've got my new yohji jackets which are quite old (pre 2000) will post the fits, so the discussion can go on and on and hopefully will encourage people who are "afraid" of yohji fit and maybe to try it themselves.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2012

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