Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[Ivwri]



There's a ton of this on Gilt right now in its designer blowout sale. Absurdly low prices.

Gah! I really need to sort out some form of overseas visa card or something. Would have liked to pick up those SS09 belted cuff pants. Ah well. Thanks for the notice as well.

Is there a video of this action?

Not as far as I know unfortunately. Been on the lookout for one for ages now. Hopefully it will turn up soon as it seems quite a few videos are making their way online from people's archives

 

[dantebykiko]

wow at the prices. tried to buy couple of things last night but my battery died and the internet went down... anyway i was after some basics. guess will need to visit muji and buy from there... thanks for the info, thou.

 

[Parker]

quick fit pic of the white hakama pants. they're more of a luxe sweatpant in this cotton heather, but the cut is unreal. I liked them so much, I got the black wool version on order. wearing them with a uniqlo navy linen shirt-jacket and mtm band collar shirt.

Spoiler: alternate view

also, for anyone shopping, just one eye marked a bunch of stuff down this weekend and added a few new items. I kinda want one of those army caps.

 

[Ivwri]

You're gonna love them in wool for sure Parker . Fits you for sure

Thanks for the heads up on justoneeye as well! You should definitely get one of those caps. Have one on the way, they're great! Still thinking about that blue shirring shirt, justoneeye doesn't ship to nigeria though

 

[dantebykiko]

i love that outfit!!! i like the first photo with the your hands on the back, the shirt-jacket look really good and part of the outfit. on the second somehow looks like denim jacket. if it was me i would unpick the collar just to clash the fraying edges with the band collar underneath and bring that yohji imperfection.

regards the hats, my friend bought couple and he it's been wearing them non-stop with everything.

 

[snowmanxl]

parker, you are a cool cat!
the colour on those are really nice and fits you really well. BUY HAT!!!

 

[1234]

WESOME parker. What sneaks?

 

[snowmanxl]

superga methinks

 

[dantebykiko]

 

[Magic1]

is there anyone cooler than yohji yamamoto, I mean really. the guy just exudes cool.

 

[Ivwri]

Thought I would put up some SS12 recent purchases.

First, wool gabardine stand collar Jacket (HB-J07-100)







This was on the runway in a cotton iteration at look 4 (code -010 instead of -100), silk and a fleecy cotton. Picked it up in a size 3 which fits me pretty well. Need to get it ironed or dry-cleaned to make sure the placket lies properly, but other than that pretty cool. The shoulders are amazing and it just sits on the body very elegantly. Standard (read: awesome) wool gabardine. Also has belt loops and can of course be worn with belts. Still trying to figure out what kind of belt would suit this and what else would need to be going on with the outfit to kind of justify it, but I have seen something that's giving me an idea. Also, runway styling.

Spoiler: Fit pics

Plush Cotton Jacket (HB-J10-010)







I was pleasantly surprised by this jacket as it looked fairly standard when I saw it on the runway pics. I did want another black blazer though so I decided to get it once ln-cc started their sales. The buttoned flap on the left side of the jacket is purely aesthetic and does not hide a pocket or anything like that. The stitching behind it and the button does give more weight to the left sie of the jacket altogether and results in a nice movement when it is open and you're moving. The left lapel is also split near the top giving a nice asymmetry to the two lapels as the one on the right has a standard notch. The division also effectively separates the left lapel from the collar of the jacket allowing it freedom of movement. It also allows the jacket to be close in a sort of psuedo-fencing/napoleon jacket style which evokes more of the military inspiration that featured heavily in this season. The collar above the left lapel also has a button in order to keep it down while the lapel below it is free to move with the wearer or in the wind. I am a big fan of the 010 cotton and it looks like it will age very well. It is fragile and will probably develop holes if not handled carefully, but I think that is part of the charm of it and will tie in very nicely with the whole wabisabi that Yohji espouses and all one's favourite items of clothing tend to develop over time.

Spoiler: Fit pics

 

[Ivwri]

Also, looks like Yohji's Pour Homme show is on the 28th of June. The full schedule is here.

Looks like I won't be able to make it to Paris after all cos of work. Sigh.

 

[1234]

Glad you picked up that blazer man. I was a bit surprised at how fragile it is as well, but it's a great summer piece. I'm sure I'll rip mine at some point. Looks awesome on you.

 

[Parker]

Very nice new jackets, ivwri. They both look great on you.

Your descriptions made me realize how much work must go into each collection. It's pretty amazing how many different pieces are made for each season, with lots of different design and new "engineering" being created each time. Each new collection brings a lot of intricate details, new patterns, fabrics, etc. From a just the fabrication standpoint, it's hard to imagine doing this over and over each season. The team of sewers/makers must get some crazy instructions. And this is "just" the men's line. The women's line looks even more complex and detailed.

 

[Ivwri]



Glad you picked up that blazer man. I was a bit surprised at how fragile it is as well, but it's a great summer piece. I'm sure I'll rip mine at some point. Looks awesome on you. 

Thanks. Looking forward to seeing yours in a fit at some point

Very nice new jackets, ivwri. They both look great on you.
Your descriptions made me realize how much work must go into each collection. It's pretty amazing how many different pieces are made for each season, with lots of different design and new "engineering" being created each time. Each new collection brings a lot of intricate details, new patterns, fabrics, etc. From a just the fabrication standpoint, it's hard to imagine doing this over and over each season. The team of sewers/makers must get some crazy instructions. And this is "just" the men's line. The women's line looks even more complex and detailed.

Yeah it's pretty crazy. Whenever I look at some of his more clever/complex pieces and the various ways that some of them can be worn it is pretty impressive and makes me a lot less able to come down hard on him or any other designer of his calibre whenever they have an off-season. How difficult must it be to carry on doing this season in and out? Must be pretty exhausting. There was a pretty small soundbite in this article during the fallout of the John Galliano anti-semitism debacle and whether it was the stresses of the industry that were partly to blame and while I like and even understand Yohji's perspective on the whole thing, looking at it from the outside can be overwhelming at times and it makes sense that he was seriously considering quitting the industry just a few years ago.

Speaking of construction, I remember reading somewhere (I think it was on thefashionspot forums) saying that the manufacturers that Yohji uses tend to grumble whenever he sends them patterns cos they tend to be quite complex and if they don't get it just so, he sends it back until they do, hehe.