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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Thought I would put up some SS12 recent purchases.

    First, wool gabardine stand collar Jacket (HB-J07-100)


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    This was on the runway in a cotton iteration at look 4 (code -010 instead of -100), silk and a fleecy cotton. Picked it up in a size 3 which fits me pretty well. Need to get it ironed or dry-cleaned to make sure the placket lies properly, but other than that pretty cool. The shoulders are amazing and it just sits on the body very elegantly. Standard (read: awesome) wool gabardine. Also has belt loops and can of course be worn with belts. Still trying to figure out what kind of belt would suit this and what else would need to be going on with the outfit to kind of justify it, but I have seen something that's giving me an idea. Also, runway styling.

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    Plush Cotton Jacket (HB-J10-010)


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    I was pleasantly surprised by this jacket as it looked fairly standard when I saw it on the runway pics. I did want another black blazer though so I decided to get it once ln-cc started their sales. The buttoned flap on the left side of the jacket is purely aesthetic and does not hide a pocket or anything like that. The stitching behind it and the button does give more weight to the left sie of the jacket altogether and results in a nice movement when it is open and you're moving. The left lapel is also split near the top giving a nice asymmetry to the two lapels as the one on the right has a standard notch. The division also effectively separates the left lapel from the collar of the jacket allowing it freedom of movement. It also allows the jacket to be close in a sort of psuedo-fencing/napoleon jacket style which evokes more of the military inspiration that featured heavily in this season. The collar above the left lapel also has a button in order to keep it down while the lapel below it is free to move with the wearer or in the wind. I am a big fan of the 010 cotton and it looks like it will age very well. It is fragile and will probably develop holes if not handled carefully, but I think that is part of the charm of it and will tie in very nicely with the whole wabisabi that Yohji espouses and all one's favourite items of clothing tend to develop over time.

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    3 people like this.
  2. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Also, looks like Yohji's Pour Homme show is on the 28th of June. The full schedule is here.

    Looks like I won't be able to make it to Paris after all cos of work. Sigh.
     
  3. 1234

    1234 Senior member

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    Glad you picked up that blazer man. I was a bit surprised at how fragile it is as well, but it's a great summer piece. I'm sure I'll rip mine at some point. Looks awesome on you.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2012
  4. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Very nice new jackets, ivwri. They both look great on you.

    Your descriptions made me realize how much work must go into each collection. It's pretty amazing how many different pieces are made for each season, with lots of different design and new "engineering" being created each time. Each new collection brings a lot of intricate details, new patterns, fabrics, etc. From a just the fabrication standpoint, it's hard to imagine doing this over and over each season. The team of sewers/makers must get some crazy instructions. And this is "just" the men's line. The women's line looks even more complex and detailed.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2012
  5. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Thanks. Looking forward to seeing yours in a fit at some point ;)



    Yeah it's pretty crazy. Whenever I look at some of his more clever/complex pieces and the various ways that some of them can be worn it is pretty impressive and makes me a lot less able to come down hard on him or any other designer of his calibre whenever they have an off-season. How difficult must it be to carry on doing this season in and out? Must be pretty exhausting. There was a pretty small soundbite in this article during the fallout of the John Galliano anti-semitism debacle and whether it was the stresses of the industry that were partly to blame and while I like and even understand Yohji's perspective on the whole thing, looking at it from the outside can be overwhelming at times and it makes sense that he was seriously considering quitting the industry just a few years ago.

    Speaking of construction, I remember reading somewhere (I think it was on thefashionspot forums) saying that the manufacturers that Yohji uses tend to grumble whenever he sends them patterns cos they tend to be quite complex and if they don't get it just so, he sends it back until they do, hehe.
     
  6. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    stand collar is amazing. too bad that huge placket on the other jacket isnt a pocket, that would've been so cool :D
     
  7. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Very nice SS12 pieces you have there :) I have handled and tried on Look 46 blazer you have in Hong Kong back in March, the fabric is very delicate indeed. What size did you get?

    As for the stand collar jacket with belt loops, it looks very good on you. If you can choose the size over again, would you have picked size 4 instead? The sleeves look a tad short on you in size 3..... maybe....
     
  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yeah I think I would definitely have sized up if i had the option. The sleeves are okay, but I have begun to prefer longer sleeves now also the placket just doesn't sit quite right when I wear it. Not that it is tight or anything, but I think it is designed to fit looser than this. I will still wear it though, hehe. Apparently Atelier only ordered a size 2 & 3 of this jacket and they are the only ones that seemed to have picked up this style in wool gab.

    As for the other jacket I got a size 4 :)
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2012
  9. Synthese

    Synthese Darth Millennial Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I dunno man, I think the stand collar looks so incredibly wearable in that size. I mean, I assume you'll be wearing it with more yohji (ha!) but it really looks versatile. Great piece (but don't belt it :D)
     
  10. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ...
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2012
  11. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Great photos. Max Vadukul in Yohji 12 years earlier, walking in his AW00 show, looking boss:

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    This is a great initiative, and a good use of the thread. Some proper pictures of recent purchases (or older, for archival purposes), hopefully with detail and/or fit pics, and impressions on the fabric/details/etc. Would be great if people would do this some of the time with both new and old pieces so we can see the work going into it and perhaps outline some specific details/fabrics between seasons etc.



    Doesn't look bad at all, much of this season's stuff is meant to fit slimmer and judging from the runway pics it didn't fit much roomier on the models. I also like longer sleeves but it's not a bad thing to mix things up too, I'm sure you can make this work in a variety of outfits.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2012
  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Will see if I can get some stuff up over the weekend with regards to photos of various pieces. I am actually expecting a great suit from Spring 08 by next week if all goes well so will definitely upload that as well once it comes in. But others should please contribute! Would be nice to see what people have in their wardrobes and it will help get even more of an appreciation for Yohji's work.

    Thanks for the comments on the stand collar jacket. Definitely going to be getting a lot of wear out of it as it is indeed very versatile and has that whole priest-vibe I quite like. And don't worry synth, I think using a belt with it might strictly be for novelty only, hehe.

    How many people in here picked up the navy derbies on ln-cc? Seems like only two sizes left in stock :lol:
     
  13. 951socal

    951socal Senior member

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    that first pic looks sharp.

    the cotton jacket sounds like a piece that would wear in nicely and will provide a look that will be impossible to duplicate once it gets some wear.

    Wish i could afford, and even pull off yohji.
    Kind of weird that a shorter Japanese designer makes cuts that only taller men can pull off well
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2012
  14. 1234

    1234 Senior member

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    What? I don't think this is true at all.
     
  15. 951socal

    951socal Senior member

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    i always think that his cut and styles round ou anyone thats shorter than 5'8" which is relatively tall for japan

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  16. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Hmm, I still disagree with this point of view that Yohji only looks good on taller guys. I posted some examples earlier in the thread, but without even going back to look for those, Yohji himself is a good example of a shorter man looking good in his clothes since he wears his own designs a lot.

    I will concede that not all the pieces would look good on shorter guys and there are also those pieces that will demand a certain presence of self to pull off well without the aid of height, but I do think it is possible. Yohji after all is heavily about the attitude when you go all in and once you have that, I don't think not being 6 feet and above will prove a challenge at all. See Parker or wireartists for very good examples of guys that pull off Yohji without any trouble at all despite not being tall. Then again, if what you're saying is that you prefer the way his clothes look on taller guys, then that's a different thing altogether.


    Exhibit A

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    :D
     
  17. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    [​IMG]


    Atelier's prepping their AW12-13 buy and posted a few photos on their blog. Looks like they are definitely getting the cape then. Has that much time already passed? Feels like we only started picking up the SS12 items.

    This cape looks better and better the more I see it.
     
    2 people like this.
  18. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    :lol: Parker. Embrace the dark side :devil:

    If anyone's still on the look out for hakama pants, I spotted this on eBay.

    Look 32 hakama pants in wool gabardine. I have these and they are amazing. One size fits all from what I understand (Mine is a size 3). Price is not that great, but there are no bids at the moment so maybe a deal could be struck with the seller.
     
  19. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    red wings x y's and george cox x y's someone got more info on those?

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    Last edited: Jun 1, 2012
  20. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    the first are really good.
     

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