Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[davidlee388]

Nearly the whole AW07 runway was shown with relatively slim fitting ( by YY standard ) cropped pants or pants rolled up, including the anime Look ones.

 

[brad-t]

is this the beginnings of a style forum kamen rider club?

 

[the shah]



i think those anime knits are a good example of something you CANNOT work into an otherwise slim-fitting wardrobe. you really need the volume on the bottom as well.

 

[hoozah]

point proven

 

[Ivwri]

Due to all the initial talk about Y's and for a change of pace, I thought I would put up some info of Yohji's former employees and/or proteges. First up is Michiko Suzuki. She used to be the lead designer of Y's red label, which was for women. Her new line is called Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth.

First, some photos from the Spring 2012 lookbook -









Then a very short bio from her website -

Spoiler: Click

03 　 2nd runway show [ ZIP ] collection at Shibuya for Autumn/Winter 2012.
Presence 4th collection, TOKYO for Autumn/Winter 2012.
Corner Shop OPEN at Shibuya SEIBU, TOKYO.
Semi Flag-ship Shop RENEWAL OPEN at Fukuoka PARCO, FUKUOKA.

2012 02 Semi Flag-ship Shop RENEWAL OPEN at Nanba CITY, OSAKA.

11 　 [ Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth. ] Trunk show & POP-UP at Singapore PARCO for Spring/Summer 2012
collection.
Flag-ship Shop OPEN at Fukuoka MITSUKOSHI, FUKUOKA.

10 　 [ Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth. ] Debuts on a runway show [ Detachable Femininity ] collection,
at Azabu St. Mary for Spring/Summer 2012 collection.
Presence 3rd collection, at Shibuya, TOKYO for Spring/Summer 2012.

09 　 Participation SOGO / SEIBU project [ LIMITED EDITION by Michiko SUZUKI ].
Semi Flag-ship Shop OPEN at Nanba PARKS, OSAKA.

05 　 Presence 2nd collection, at Naka-meguro, TOKYO for Autumn/Winter 2011.

2011 03 Semi Flag-ship Shop OPEN at Shibuya PARCO, TOKYO.
New line start, [ Nocturne #23 In E Minor, Op. Posth. ]

10 　 Presence 1st collection, at Ambiance, TOKYO for Spring/Summer 2011.

07 　 Presence Debut collection, at Naka-meguro, TOKYO for Pre Spring/Summer 2011.

2010 05 　Launches her own brand, [ Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth. ]

2009 03 　Presents 4th runway show, [ SING A SONG ] collection, at National Stadium for Autumn/Winter 2009-2010.

08 　 Presents 3rd runway show, [ Witch ] collection, at free space of Komazawa Olympic Park for Spring/Summer 2009.

2008 03 Presents 2nd runway show, [ Love and Hate ] collection, at Chichibu rugby ground for Autumn/Winter 2008-2009.

08 　 Debuts on a runway show at Shotoku Memorial Museum for Spring/Summer 2008 collection.

2007 03 Presents [ Communication ] collection in Autumn/Winter 2007-2008, collaborated with an illustrator, Genta Kosumi.

2006 10 Unveils [ Accessory (Complicity) ] collection in Spring/Summer 2007, collaborated with Yoshiko Kajitani of a jewelry brand,
Yoshiko Creation Paris. Works jointly with a photographer, Nobuyoshi Araki, for the image book.

2005 09 Appointed as a designer for an experimental line within Y's brand in Autumn/Winter 2006-2007 collection.
Coloring the brand tag in red, it later becomes an independent brand, "Y's Red Label" .

2002 12 Joins another brand, Y's, as a pattern maker

04 　 Joins Yohji Yamamoto Inc. as a pattern maker for one of its brands, Yohji Yamamoto +Noir

2000 03 Graduates from Bunka Fashion College (Garment Creation Dept.)

1979 03.19 Born in Tsuruoka-City, Yamagata prefecture. Aspires to become a couturier under the influence of her grandfather who is a
tailor

Nocturne #22 is also one of the first labels to be stocked in Yuji Yamamoto's (Yohji's son) store, Re:Birth in Japan.

More info and pictures here.

Yohji's influence can definitely be seen in her clothing with voluminous dresses and assymetry being the immediately noticeable things. Good stuff though I think and I like the name .

 

[Ivwri]

X-post from WAYWT thread. Thought I would post here as well as I put up a video showing the wool gab hakamas in motion.

Thanks for the comments guys. I was going for school boy (shoes, belt, shirt, socks) primarily with a bit of late 18th century early 19th century dress (breeches, jacket, almost wore high-necked waistcoat/shirt hybrid but figured might be too much for the occassion). Any Prussian and Teutonic references are purely coincidental.
drmmr asked for a video WAYWT to see the hakamas in motion the last time I wore hakama pants so since I am wearing them today I thought I'd oblige .
Not the same ones I wore as last time, but same idea . Apologies for the messy tabletop.
[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

Spoiler: Details & static shots

Details
Orphaned kameez (Pakistani tunic shirt. Still not sure what the fabric...feels very light and is translucent. I suspect it could be rayon or a rayon blend)
YYPH hakama pants (wool gabardine)
Burberry Prorsum gladiator sandals

Happy Easter (if you celebrate it and if you don't compliments of the season anyway ) to all you guys as well.

 

[Synthese]

Not really sure what to make of this, but if it's legit someone gets a deal:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/16077851744...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_1413

 

[Roygbivuxg]

^^those sandals are perfect in that context

 

[stadsvandringar]

The blazer above looks legit to me. As far as I know there is not any bootleg y's or yohji pour homme out there. Someone has probably bootlegged y-3 given its popularity and the materials they use, but that is a different beast altogether. That blazer looks to be from an older collection (from the costume d'homme line), with a boxy shape. I'm personally not fond of the double breasted cut there, but I suppose the price is right.

 

[Parker]



X-post from WAYWT thread. Thought I would post here as well as I put up a video showing the wool gab hakamas in motion.
Happy Easter (if you celebrate it and if you don't compliments of the season anyway ) to all you guys as well.

The hakamas look awesome, ivwri. Great pairing with the tunic and the gladiators. I would love to pull that look off.

Happy Easter. Hope you and your family are safe. Just read about the church bombing in the LA Times. Uggghhhh.

 

[asobu]

If you try, you will, Parker. Very excited to see your future fits.

Synthese, that is indeed very legit. 90's costume d'homme. The cut and particular style of jacket is very reminiscent of YYPH 1990 through '92, where one third of the shows were fits with this kind of jacket.

Ivwri, love it like I said in the other thread. Sandals are a good match, but too easy and priest like? Would love to see them paired with footwear heavier and more grounded too. There are lots of variations to make these right, this is certainly one of them.

 

[davidlee388]

Ivwri, that's a good fit. At the end of the day, fashion ( no matter how expensive or cheap ) is about comfort first, anything else is just secondary IMO. The only person you need to impress is yourself.

 

[Ivwri]



The hakamas look awesome, ivwri. Great pairing with the tunic and the gladiators. I would love to pull that look off.
Happy Easter. Hope you and your family are safe. Just read about the church bombing in the LA Times. Uggghhhh.

Thanks and thanks! My family is okay. My dad is actually up north at the moment so he is close to the state that the bombing happened in. Pretty scary, but even more annoying is our inept government. So many people dying and they keep on burying their heads in the sand only popping up for air and to spew more meaningless drivel.

If you try, you will, Parker. Very excited to see your future fits.
Synthese, that is indeed very legit. 90's costume d'homme. The cut and particular style of jacket is very reminiscent of YYPH 1990 through '92, where one third of the shows were fits with this kind of jacket.
Ivwri, love it like I said in the other thread. Sandals are a good match, but too easy and priest like? Would love to see them paired with footwear heavier and more grounded too. There are lots of variations to make these right, this is certainly one of them.

Ivwri, that's a good fit. At the end of the day, fashion ( no matter how expensive or cheap ) is about comfort first, anything else is just secondary IMO. The only person you need to impress is yourself.

Thanks guys. Yeah the sandals definitely gave off a priestly vibe, but I was in the mood for that so was win-win . Will definitely be trying these particular hakamas out with more substantial footwear for sure though.

 

[Lionheart Biker]

Iwvri, I thought I had the same prorsum sandals as you, but mine don´t have those "high" straps. And those are also not the ones with the zipper down the middle, right? I thought burberry, in that SS 11 collection had only 2 different pairs, the ones I have



and the aforementioned with the zipper



But yours are neither, right?

 

[PregnantBob]

Wore Yohji to my grandfather's funeral in Shanghai. The old man use to love the flow, alway sencouraged me to be me.