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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Pricing is always a touchy issue, but I believe that when most designers move production, even if they are getting better prices, passing them on to consumers might inadvertently send the wrong message to a lot of people. A price drop might be associated with a drop in quality as well and no one wants that for their brand. Another thing is that moving production facilities might also be done out of necessity as opposed to just a desire to increase profits. If they moved production in order to be able to meet their running costs better and ensure they continue to grow as a business, passing on the savings they make won't help them.

    Drops in quality from a high end brand are unacceptable though and there really should be more steps taken to tighten quality control at a lot of these brands. In my own experience though, all of the Yohji clothing I have are definitely very high quality and I don't see any difference between stuff from 2006 and items I have from SS12.
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2012


  2. Momokun

    Momokun Active Member

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  3. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Yohji's pricing has been shifting a bit over the last few years. AW08 and SS09 - the latter in particular I believe - were priced comparatively high even in Japan. I think the fabrics and some of the more work-load heavy deconstruction/embroidery/application themes in SS09 drove up the costs. For SS10 - which was a sort of Y's / YYPH amalgamation studio collection with less detailed work involved - there was a noticable shift towards slightly lower prices on average but from SS11 and forward it has moved up again, and possibly even higher than the last few collections of 00's

    While some knits have been Made in China in the last few years, 95% of the collection is still made in Japan and the MIC stuff is definitely not inferior in quality from what I have seen, nor has it been the cheaper stuff of the collection. Still, a lot of hardcore Japanese customers have been responding negatively to this trend and has abstained from buying things they like because it was MIC. These are probably a very vocal minority online though.

    Sort of tangentally related, crouka (who knows everything worth knowing about japanese fashion) posted this on SZ and I thought it was kinda funny:

     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2012


  4. xumatrix

    xumatrix Well-Known Member

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  5. xumatrix

    xumatrix Well-Known Member

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  6. xumatrix

    xumatrix Well-Known Member

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    http://fashion.eladies.sina.com.cn/industry/2012/0328/220029769.shtml



    this is another interview in chinese and i will pick up and translate some points.


    Ask: Why you want choose to make cloth and build your own label?
    Yohji: in a word, i do not want to be office worker, to be a small part of the society. I am happy to do things i like.

    A:there are too much fast fashion, how do you think about it.
    Y: i don't think that fast fashion is "bad". Young generation have their own rights to enjoy the fast fashion, then they will know what they actually want. 
     
    A:What about your understanding of the relationship between fashion and art
    Y:If design wants to be “art”,it will be more difficult. Fashion has to be finished with business, in consider with the market. Making fashion is more hard than pure art to deal with.  

    A: any young designer you like?
    Y: I likes Alexander McQueen a lot. talented, but passed away, what a pity.   

    A: when will catch any ideas for your design?
    Y:from reading and some movies, and when i drive, it is also a good time for inspiration.   
     
     


  7. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Even some YY shoes are now made in China, the AW11 Monkey Boots I have are an example. Wonder if they are made along the same production line as Y-3? Someone already remarked the quality of YY foottwear of past seasons wasn't the best, will this MIC phenomenon drive quality even further downwards?
     


  8. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

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    For some reason a post I had made earlier was deleted by the mods... Oh well, here we go again.

    I have seen some of the MIC and MIJ pieces from the ss11 collection that were exactly the same. Some of the knit short/pants were made in both places, using the same fabrics (and charging the same price). There was really no discernible difference in quality, although I can understand why hardcore fans would be disappointed. I find it a bit hypocritical myself, in that he has been such a strong proponent of making his stuff in Japan.

    On another note, it was requested that I post a few pics of my aw07 "anime" knits. Here goes:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  9. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Thanks for the translation and the other posts xumatrix.
    Well, from what I understand from people I know who are doing business in China. Chinese production runs the whole gamut from absolute crap to top of the line quality, just depends on what one is willing to pay for I guess. Just like most places. I hope that Yohji himself will keep the new owners to a high quality standard.
    Thanks for posting these pics stadsvandringar! The patterns look great and would be very nice peeking out from under a coat I imagine. The Skull Man one looks excellent, but I really like the patterns on the arm of the first one (what anime/manga character is that by the way?). Really cool seeing standalone shots of Yohji pieces instead of just seeing them on the runway. Maybe more of you guys with great Yohji pieces from past collections especially should put up a few more pics whenever you all have the time :slayer: I think Yohji producing some stuff in China is still within reason especially if producing in Japan is becoming a bit too expensive to make complete business sense. The new investors must also be watching the bottom line pretty closely I wager. Also I think something like the SS12 collection must have been primarily produced in Japan with all the traditional silk prints and so on. With all the work he has given Japanese craftspeople over the 3 decades, I think he should be allowed a little bit of "flirting" with foreign production :). It is also nice to see that Sino-Japanese tension is not keeping him from visiting the country and using their services.
     


  10. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

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    You've got me on the characters... I am definitely not an anime or manga enthusiast. I did recognize kamen rider from the collection, but that was about it. However, I believe all of the anime stuff from this collection was a collaboration with Shintaro Ishinomori of Ishimori productions: http://en.ishimoripro.com/
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2012


  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Ah, that explains all the Super Sentai stuff. It is probably Kamen Rider related as well. Thanks for that bit of info.
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2012


  12. brad-t

    brad-t Bae Blade

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  13. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    I am in the hunt for the Masked Rider knit definitely.

    The Skull Man knit is also very nice, the character is on the back of the jumper ( check on YYPH AW07 thread ).
     


  14. Lionheart Biker

    Lionheart Biker Senior member

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    New grail item found... Now just have to search all over the web for one.
     


  15. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    i think those anime knits are a good example of something you CANNOT work into an otherwise slim-fitting wardrobe. you really need the volume on the bottom as well.
     


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