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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. valter

    valter Senior member

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    Last edited: May 13, 2012


  2. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Haha, yeah. I actually should track down a few of the songs myself. There's a very small clip of Yohji playing the guitar and singing on the Y-3 vid and that seemed pretty nice.

    Expect a PM from me Valter :)
     


  3. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Hmm, just realised that its Monday and we are owed pics of Brad in Yohji :happy:
     


  4. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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  5. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I really like that AW 08 collection. It's got some subtle mod/punk overtones with the Docs, cropped and pegged pants and did I see a couple fishtail parkas? The sweaters are even a bit in that punk-Vivienne Westwood tradition. The overall silhouette is cool: big overcoat, cropped pants and chunky boots. I'm going to try this for sure. But, it made me think that the proportions really have to be right. This one is not as easy for the shorter guy as some of the other Yohji silhouettes. The pants have to break right above the boot and the coats need to end with just enough room to show some pants leg underneath. Looks great on those 6'4" models with more real estate to work with.

    Also more Dylan. And Elvis Costello. Gen-X's Dylan?
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2012


  6. Lane

    Lane Senior member

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    im borderline a 44 though, so I dunno
     


  7. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yeah the look is really killer. If I could get one or two more pairs of pants and jeans with a crop like that either AW07-08 or AW04 (where he also visited a similar look and has some pants done with adjustable hem heights via a zipper) I would probably wear variations of that look everyday. I try and do a ghetto version of that with my AW10 pants, but obviously the cut is way different.
     


  8. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

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    Ivwri - per sales rep in dubai branch of IF , the womens line follows same numbering system, and they also don't carry any paul harnden

    ps nice new avatar is that from the bbs pic cropped down ?
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2012


  9. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Like david mentioned, the numbering system is the same but with a shift towards 1/2/3 being the standard while 2/3/4 is standard for Pour Homme in Japan, where 1 used to be very rare to find and 5/6 virtually non-existent. As for buttoning (l-t-r, r-t-l) that varies too from jacket to jacket. Not sure what is most common though.
     


  10. kgmessier

    kgmessier Senior member

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    I love a lot of the Yohji pieces, but I have no idea to incorporate them into my more typical wardrobe. There's no way I could afford to purchase an entire outfit of pieces at once. How do you recommend phasing into Yohji? (I saw MoK do it with a recent fit, but I feel it was a rare miss for him.)
     


  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Thanks for the info. Guess I will just have to do some browsing when I get to Paris. I also remember Guy Burgess saying that there was a boutique in Berlin that had Harnden. Will PM him and see.

    The avatar is indeed from the one you posted over in the SOON... thread a while back cropped down. It got me VERY interested in BBS for a hot minute and then after some browsing it looked too aggressive for me and nothing like what it evoked in those photos :embar:.

    EDIT - What season is it from actually?
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2012


  12. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Echoing the love for AW07-08. The cuts for the pants were pretty slim across the board, the coats feel amazing in person and there's a good variation on them -- I personally like the wool knit insert long coats, boiled wool fishtail parka to mention a few, but pretty much any outerwear from that collection is stellar. There's a pretty big variation in cuts too - the off white fishtail absolutely swallowed me up in a sz 3, while the wool/rayon stuff is cut considerably slim. I love the fact that pretty much every look is a variation on this theme/silhouette, very consistent and focused sartorially. Good blend of colors too, from all black to a range of color looks. It's a great silhouette and like Ivwri said something he already did back in 2004 (with a broader palette of other looks too, I think I prefer aw04 tbh).
     


  13. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Wool pants and a shirt, then a jacket and after that you'll be on your way!
     


  14. kgmessier

    kgmessier Senior member

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    Thanks, asobu! Seems that sizing goes more by height. I'm about 5' 9-1/2", which seems to put me between a 2 and a 3. Would you say that's accurate? Maybe closer to 2 than 3?
     


  15. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    I guess this will really be dependent on your wardrobe, but what I did was I bought pants first primarily and paired them with large linen & cotton non-YY shirts initially (both bespoke and cheaper OTR stuff). T-shirts of all sorts also work great with his pants so you can get away with that for a while. Shirts always seem to appear on eBay from both mainline and Y's for men so you should be able to grab a few for relatively cheap and use those.

    I am still hunting for jackets I like that I can use regularly, but I feel that these should probably be the first & last thing you buy (assuming you want to transition to a full YY look/wardrobe) since one jacket in wool gabardine can serve you very well while you juggle the pants around allowing you to focus on slowly accumulating other pieces. The jackets and coats also seem to be the priciest stuff so having one or two nice ones (maybe one basic and one stand-out piece) can serve you very well until you have a solid rotation of other items.

    At the moment I am still buying pants (would like to have like 1 or 2 more go-to wool gabardine pants in a standard Yohji cut and then a few more in the boot-cropped cuts we were just discussing), but my focus is shifting a little bit more to shirts and blazers/jackets etc.

    Hope that helps even a bit.

    EDIT - doh! Just saw asobu's super concise answer above mine. Ah well. And yeah, you sound like a 3 to me kg :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2012


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