Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[Ivwri]

I probably have a skewed perspective on this considering most of my cultural experience of Japan has come through people like Haruki Murakami and Takeshi Kitano, but I think that Japanese people of Yohji's age definitely like Bob Dylan and all that music and culture from that period in America. Probably some kind of precursor to the Americana fad that has been permeating Japanese fashion for ages now.

Makes sense anyway. American culture heavily influenced Japan after the war and they definitely ran with it. I am not familiar with Dylan myself, so that's cool that you caught the references in there .

 

[Ivwri]



Iwvri, do you own any pants from the last collection you posted? I love the all the differente designs and they look like they would have a great flow while walking.

The Spring 2008 one? Yup. Have a pair of grey baggy cargo pants in a flannel-like cotton and a pair of slimmer cargo pants with buttons at the bottom for altering the width below the knee in black cotton.

Spoiler: These ones

Both are really nice.

 

[davidlee388]

My wife wears Y's or YY Femme most of the time, she does mix them up with Limi Feu, Vienne Westwood & Marithe + Francois Girbaud. The stuff she has are very relaxed in silhouette, terrific fabrics are always the key ( same as YYPH, how many other designers proudly display the composition tags that can be archived as well? )

Sizing wise, Y's and YYF are like YYPH, sz 1, 2 are most common, sz 3 occasionally for Y's, 4 & 5 seem only be found on Yoox. I think sz 2 is like UK sz 12, though with Yohji's unique silhouette it's hard to compare....best tip:- try the stuff first before buying if possible. And with Yoox, you can always return without charge

YYPH SS08 and SS09 were indeed stupendous. It's sometimes difficult to find the whole " suit " for SS09 ( I mean matching pants ), though some of the looks were depicted on runway with non-matching pants ( asobu can confirm this ).

I suggest fans should go on Frillr and firstView etc to check out detailed shots of some runway shows to truly appreciate the attention to details of the pieces

 

[asobu]

On a side note I think Yohji has repeatedly asked Bob Dylan (or through the official "channels", not personally, most likely) to walk in one of his shows but obviously that hasn't happened yet.

 

[asobu]

I also love SS09. It's a suit collection but it's just such a perfect wardrobe for everyday in the way syed described it. I think it feels a bit like his last collection in a way, and I believe I read somwhere that he himself thought that 2009 could be his last year of designing (the women's ss09 is equally beautiful, if not more so, and even more pared down in terms of expression, palette and, iirc, fabrics). It just really feels like it's from him as a person and creator, perfectly causal suit wardrobe for men young and old to be worn at any time. Plus all the details referring to creating clothes (cutting, scissors in different shapes), the deconstructionist theme and when he walked the runway with all those old guys at the very end.

 

[KingJulien]

I can't usually picture myself in Yohji but I would wear a lot of the stuff from that s/s '08 collection.

 

[Ivwri]



I also love SS09. It's a suit collection but it's just such a perfect wardrobe for everyday in the way syed described it. I think it feels a bit like his last collection in a way, and I believe I read somwhere that he himself thought that 2009 could be his last year of designing (the women's ss09 is equally beautiful, if not more so, and even more pared down in terms of expression, palette and, iirc, fabrics). It just really feels like it's from him as a person and creator, perfectly causal suit wardrobe for men young and old to be worn at any time. Plus all the details referring to creating clothes (cutting, scissors in different shapes), the deconstructionist theme and when he walked the runway with all those old guys at the very end.

I agree completely with this. All the little quotes like "forget me not" and "like a butterfly" and of course centering the entire collection around the one aspect of men's clothing that he has been subverting time and time again. The suit.

Anyway, it's great that he found his energy for designing again - also means he is still around to do some magic for latecomers like me .

After so many years, no one could blame him for running out of inspiration or getting tired of the industry. Of course, that interview where he said that he looked around and realised that he still had something to do within the industry still brings us back to that question of who will be able to take up the mantle once he is gone.

I can't usually picture myself in Yohji but I would wear a lot of the stuff from that s/s '08 collection.

I think I will post his AW07-08 now. I don't think it's been posted before. Think you'll like that as well

 

[Roygbivuxg]

5 star thread gentleman. I can't believe I didn't start reading this earlier. I'm thinking of picking up a Y's or YY blazer or jacket at some point. I'm 5'10'' us36 suit size. Should I be looking for a size 1? Also, between Y's and YYPH, is one cut slimmer than the other?

 

[davidlee388]

Roygbivuxg, your height will suggest size 3 for most YYPH/Y's, sometimes size 2, don't go near size 1 IMO, the silhouette/balance won't be right. Y's cut is slimmer than YYPH in general, pants for some Y's for men in early 00s were tiny waist-wise.

Other Yohji masters should correct me if I'm wrong

 

[Ivwri]

Only video I could find of the show was on Frillr here. I re-uploaded it to Youtube, but I see that there are some copyright restrictions in some countries. If you can't view it, have a look at the original link.


Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme Autumn - Winter 2007-2008

[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

Spoiler: Runway photos

 

[Ivwri]



Roygbivuxg, your height will suggest size 3 for most YYPH/Y's, sometimes size 2, don't go near size 1 IMO, the silhouette/balance won't be right. Y's cut is slimmer than YYPH in general, pants for some Y's for men in early 00s were tiny waist-wise.
Other Yohji masters should correct me if I'm wrong

+1

 

[davidlee388]

Talking of " the talking point " of SS09, will someone go for this:-




At least wire & I have this ( wire has the suit! ), it's a great piece, with hidden big pockets

( Request to remove link )

 

[Lionheart Biker]

I want one of those printed sweaters so bad. The motorcycle one would be ideal for me.

 

[davidlee388]

Talking of the " defining moment " of the SS09 Runway show, someone needs to go for this:-



Wire and I have this ( he has the whole suit! ), it's a true masterpiece, hidden big pockets and all!

 

[Ivwri]

Damn, that's a great find! Anybody in a size 3 should snap it up.