Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. syed

    syed Well-Known Member

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    Oh snap, haven't seen that video, thanks for the heads up :slayer: I suppose there are always time limitations, especially considering the frenzy of fashion week, so maybe you can send them out one at a time if you only have 24 looks, but with 48 you have to send them out in an overlapping stream. But yes, I'd much rather see them walk out relaxed (especially with Yohji), than storm in and out looking grumpy. I'm not sure when grumpy became synonymous with 'serious' fashion, although then again, I guess if the models at one of the more aggressive Rick shows came out smiling it would look rather odd. Fashion is consumed in such a disposable manner, and here I mean in the sense of visual consumption alone, that I do rather wish people would sit down and really take the time to watch and enjoy a show. I sometimes find that there are collections that do nothing for me in photographs, but having seen the runway show I feel more drawn to them. I suppose there is also a similar disconnect between runway and shopping rail too - how can you ever fully understand a garment without trying it on? It is why I rely on female friends trying on womenswear, or seeing it move on women, to get a better idea of the clothes. Things make sense in person that never quite do in photographs/videos or written description. But until there is a better way to represent fashion I suppose they will have to do - can't exactly try on every piece and every collection of every designer that takes my fancy!
     


  2. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    thanks for the info wire and asobu
     


  3. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Nice post syed.

    You're right that the way we consume fashion is very limited in how much of an appreciation for the craft that goes into making these clothes it can give us.

    I guess that's why in addition to just trying on the clothing or having a look at pieces in person, discussions like these can help fill in the gaps that pictures and video by necessity must leave.

    Do you know any ladies that wear Yohji? Would be nice to get a different perspective on his clothing since most of the discussion online I have had is basically with guys. Would also be helpful since shah had earlier asked about how the sizing works for the women's line.
     


  4. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    More SS09 pics. I really liked the mood of this show :D

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  5. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Decided to post another collection, this time Spring-Summer 2008, also known as the "Remnants of a defeated army" collection.

    Obviously very military-inspired, the runway show has a very nice and subtle narrative. Showing what could possibly be a young soldier (or young soldiers) back from a war they never wanted to be part of reintegrating back into society, but not completely removing their martial trappings. They are also a bit exhausted and war weary since the clothes lack that neat, crisply ironed and shiny booted look generally associated with military uniforms. These are men that would rather be free to do their own thing.

    Apart from the visual narrative itself, which is pretty nice, I really like the way he executed some of his more archetypal pieces (the Edwardian jacket, baggy pants, waistcoats etc) with rougher fabrics giving them a very worn and rough feel. Anyway, I have two items (and now three thanks to wireartists) from this collection that are some of the first items I ever got in my own Yohji wardrobe (the pants from look 36 thanks to asobu and a cotton iteration of the "ronin" cargo pants that show up quite a bit in the collection in different fabrics) so I have a soft spot for this collection.


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  6. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

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    too much touching and what not in that hand-aplique collection hah

    so i take it your wife has not come round to wearing yohji after all your success, Ivwri :p
     


  7. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    I am planning to begin indoctrination next month in Paris :slayer:
     


  8. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

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    hopefully it works out ! maybe next month you can answer my question above :eek:
     


  9. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Well, if you don't get an answer before then, will definitely get back to you on that and will speak to the S.As as well to get more advice. Is this for a lady friend or are you interested in an item for yourself?
     


  10. syed

    syed Well-Known Member

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    I wish I did :inlove: Most of my female friends are into European designers unfortunately.

    And SS09 was so good, I really want the suit from the opening look. And I liked those scissor print jackets, especially with the coloured tees underneath. Armarni made suits comfortable for men in the '80s, but Yohji makes them comfortable for everyday, and I love that. The look with the gent holding the newspaper and milk under his arm, with that paperbag waist, is killer - you can wear it out to grocery store with trainers or to a restaurant with derbies and it just looks natural.
     


  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Indeed, that look is excellent. Still on the lookout for something similar. So great how with one item you can be casual or dressed up (and still relaxed) in Yohji's universe.

    On a different note, why is it so hard to find women who wear Yohji in real life? :confused: not that I have met any guys in Yohji in real life either, but still... Only ever seen the female S.As.
     


  12. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

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    the answer is yes :D

    thanks, I guess I could always call the store (in Paris) ?

    there are some nice contributions on SZ of women wearing yohji, and I've seen perhaps a handful of guys in new york wearing the stuff. quite rare and dispersed throughout the world, the yohji clan is !
     


  13. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    You should definitely call the Paris store. The SAs there are very helpful and one of them, I think her name is Anifa, has been wearing Yohji for more than a decade now so I am sure she'd be able to help.

    EDIT - I really love Lumina's Yohji contributions (I think that's her anyway...and there's someone else as well that doesn't post that much who's fits are always great), just wish they posted more often.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2012


  14. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Interesting to see the Bob Dylan references in that SS2008 collection. I realized that Yohji is a baby boomer. I'm not sure that's what you'd call his generation in Japan, and I'm not sure how popular Dylan was there either, but seems he has some residual connection to the anti-war and civil rights movements of the 60s. At least that's what I read into it with my American eyes.

    This photo also reminded me a bit of this idea of coming home from war. It's also a Muddy Waters song which I'm sure Yohji is familiar with being a guitar player himself.

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    Last edited: Jan 6, 2016


  15. Lionheart Biker

    Lionheart Biker Senior member

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    Iwvri, do you own any pants from the last collection you posted? I love the all the differente designs and they look like they would have a great flow while walking.
     


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