Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Damn, wire's sale is really epic indeed. Good thing I can ignore most of that by telling myself they are for AW weather. That SS11 long shirt is really tempting though...
     


  2. Torchiere

    Torchiere Active Member

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    I'd buy that aw07 long knit if I had the cash.

    Also, I must say thanks to Ivwri, asobu, et al. for a most informative thread.
     


  3. brad-t

    brad-t Bae Blade

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    will try on YY this weekend and get pics

    sizing? i read that it's mostly height that matters, i am about six feet ...
     


  4. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    ^go for 3 in everything, should work out well for you. Most of the stuff this season is quite slim so it probably won't look so oversized on you. Try the printed silk jackets if they have those, the boxy cut is amazing.

    torchiere, good to see you here too man!
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2012


  5. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    EDIT - Just saw asobu's post, go with what he said :)

    Glad you're enjoying the thread Torchiere! :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2012


  6. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Wire is gunning for SS12 with those sales haha!
     


  7. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    And buy asobu's AW08 Handstitched 2B blazer! It has the most amazing fabric and construction.

    I had ' fostered ' a few sz 3 pieces from wire in the past. His stuff had always been top drawer. His grail sale is def grail worthy....shame the AW07 ain't my size :(
     


  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    +1 on both counts. Would have grabbed the 2B blazer right now off asobu if I could. Got the double-breasted version from him and it is a great piece.
     


  9. brad-t

    brad-t Bae Blade

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    I think I saw the silk jacket you are talking about. It felt very nice, though the price is very high ... well, everything is haha
     


  10. Guy Burgess

    Guy Burgess Senior member

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    damn those blue shoes at the bottom of the first pic impolyt_one posted look amazing.
     


  11. NovemberFire

    NovemberFire Member

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    Hey guys, 1st time posting here. Received the S/S12 Reversible shirt from look 1 today, and after getting measurements on the 2 and 4 (no 3 available) I went with the 2 and was surprised it basically fits me like the show and I'm a 48, 6ft tall. I was told it wasn't made in a 3, can anyone confirm this?
     


  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    +1. That pic is seriously making me consider getting a pair from LN-CC.


    I don't know myself, but mine is a 4 so I guess it is possible a 3 was not made. It may also depend on where you picked it up from since that particular store may not have received any in a size 3 at all. It makes sense in a way I guess, a size 3 would not have a place to fit on that continuum if the 2 hangs on you the way it does on the model, considering we are pretty close in height. It is odd since it seems last season the sizing was 1, 3 and 5 for such items...
     


  13. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Since the hakama post went down well, I thought I would do another one on August Sander. Another muse of Yohji's.

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    August Sander's cyclic model of society can be seen most recently in Yohji's AW12-13 collection. His view of what constituted the archetypal contemporary man is also a definite influence on how Yohji approaches his mens clothing. Made for the everyman and with a rumpled, lived in aesthetic that is free from any airs (even though paradoxically its high cost limits access to it generally and means that one ends up with a higher number of the bourgeois wearing his clothes).

    AW12-13 looks with associated archetypes -

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    Yohji has visited the Sanders cyclic model of society quite a few times, but I am too lazy right now to go grab pics and name seasons :p. Spring 2011 are AW99 are the ones that immediately spring to mind though.

    In the movie "A Notebook on Cities & Clothes", Wim Wenders talks about how both he and Yohji really like August Sanders and own copies of his seminal work, Men of the 20th Century. It is a book on portraiture and looking at it, one can see why Yohji would be drawn to August Sander's artistic sensibilities, ideas about contemporary man and his work.

    It is also interesting that he got into architectural studies later in his life as Yohji is also pretty interested in architecture, with his issue of A Magazine including a section on the Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid and his clothes have been described as "architectural" by many fashion critics.

    Yohji is definitely a designer very interested, and maybe even trapped, in a romantic view of the past "With my eyes turned to the past, I walk backwards into the future", bringing in designs and views that would be at home in the late 1800s or early 1900s from both the East and the West and putting his own spin on things.

    I am very interested in doing more research into the cultural links that Germany and Japan have as I see a lot of fascination with German design, imagery and even words in so many aspects of modern/pop Japanese culture. Would be interesting to see what similarities if any one could dig up from the two nations.


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    images via Getty museum
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2012


  14. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Great post. Enjoyed seeing those Sander pics. Have you seen the full volume of Men of the 20th Century? I know Fuuma was talking about his work several years ago. I was looking for it back then, before I had seen the Wenders documentary, but never managed to find a copy at the time.



    AW11 gives me very strong Sander vibes, it also has a broader variety of classic pieces. I can see what you mean about AW99 though I think that collection is much more focused and detail oriented than, for instance, aw11.


    Love this quote!
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2012


  15. robinsongreen68

    robinsongreen68 Senior member

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    fantastic stuff ivwri. i've always loved this image, but had never made a conscious connection with yohji, although in hindsight the influence is evident

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2012


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