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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

the shah

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Word is YY is not doing well financially,
well given his previous run-in with bankruptcy it’s not all that surprising. It took quite a Herculean effort to stave that off in 2008, and it doesn’t take much more than a cursory look at the whole industry to see a bubble of hyperproduction (two seasons a year, to start with), excesses catalyzed by a group of financially irresponsible people. And now everyone just wears sweatpants or basketball shorts for the most part.
 

SpooPoker

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Cheers all - hope that some of you experts can help me with a piece I just got in - I cant track back the date code based on the list in the first post, does anyone have some insight into this (super freaking cool) jacket?

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SpooPoker

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jacobcosquer

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hey guys, pretty happy to find a long thread like this about Yohji - going to be reading all the past posts.

after admiring yohji’s ideals and the amazing silhouettes he creates, i purchased my first yohji piece. some wrapped pants from the last AW season. but i have a question ..

they are made from 100% cotton garb but they just seem to collect dust from anywhere and it shows a lot because it’s black.

is this common with most pieces or is there a way to prevent it?

added a fit pick below, i’d love people to reply with what they currently have in their wardrobe too, does anyone have a full yohji wardrobe?

look forward to chatting w you guys.

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jacobcosquer

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W04 shawl collar coat. Didn't wear it out, but wanted to play dress up take a pic for archival/sharing purposes before heading out -





It's a very nice 100% wool gabardine and feels lighter than it actually is once worn. The drape is excellent. No buttons so it must be worn open and it has two slits near the shawl lapel that can be used to access trouser pockets. The positioning of the pocket slits also accentuates the shawl collar in a great way so it looks even better with hands in pockets while walking. It's not that warm and is more suited to spring or fall I think. Can't wait to have a chance to wear it out.

What I actually wore out -

Just reading through old posts and that jacket is stunning! Also love how the pants are tucked into the boots, or they may have cuffs?
 

SpooPoker

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Cheers all - hope that some of you experts can help me with a piece I just got in - I cant track back the date code based on the list in the first post, does anyone have some insight into this (super freaking cool) jacket?

View attachment 1447007View attachment 1447010View attachment 1447011View attachment 1447013View attachment 1447014
Hoping that nobody answering means that I have a super rare piece that nobody has seen before!
 

peachfuzzmcgee

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Hoping that nobody answering means that I have a super rare piece that nobody has seen before!
Im by no means an expert but considering the sizing conventions, it’s a pretty old piece. It’s hard to find catalogs and runways for anything before the 2000s. So maybe it’s a relatively rare piece?

Also regarding YY financial struggles, it doesn’t surprise me. They have so many lines and almost all of them are the opposite of casual. It seems that when they opened an online shop and an accessible like with the s’yte stuff they were hoping to mitigate that. However considering the condition, I guess it was too late maybe?
 

FlyingMonkey

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The awful Supreme collaboration seems to be part of this belated attempt to commercialize more to raise capital. It may be too late, and it's also really damaged the brand for its loyalists...

PS: I miss Ivwri.
 

peachfuzzmcgee

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They just need to consolidate lines, close the ridiculous amount of stores, and focus on being a smaller brand again. I don’t see the need for high fashion to have so many diffusion lines and collabs like the one with supreme. Either that or they should be like Dover Street and carry more brands that aren’t just diffusion YY labels.
 

jacobcosquer

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They just need to consolidate lines, close the ridiculous amount of stores, and focus on being a smaller brand again. I don’t see the need for high fashion to have so many diffusion lines and collars like the one with supreme. Either that or they should be like Dover Street and carry more brands that aren’t just diffusion YY labels.
I completely agree, smaller brands always seem more beautiful and personal to me also.
 

jacobcosquer

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As there seem to be a few people online, can I ask again how each of you find that your Yohji pieces wear in day to day settings?

I have some of his wrapped pants (something I might even call a Yohji basic as it is re-iterated most seasons) but seem that they just gather dust and fluff wherever they go. Is that common with most of his pieces?

I understand that beauty is found within silhouette and garments looking old however I like to be clean haha.
 

peachfuzzmcgee

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Well when you wear black, you gotta deal with it basically, I have a nice Kent brush that I use, but the only items of yohji I have are big suits in garbardine. I also have cats so I just live with it most of the time if I can’t get it all off. I love my suit but I haven’t worn it since pre COVID.
 

jacobcosquer

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Well when you wear black, you gotta deal with it basically, I have a nice Kent brush that I use, but the only items of yohji I have are big suits in garbardine. I also have cats so I just live with it most of the time if I can’t get it all off. I love my suit but I haven’t worn it since pre COVID.
Maybe I have just not acclimatised to wearing all black everyday yet:) I tend to sit on the floor a lot so that probably doesn't help. I am continually searching for a nice Yohji suit.

I would just wear it around the house if I didn't go out, dress up for yourself haha, or the cats.
 

peachfuzzmcgee

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Haha I do dress up everyday, but I’m such a baby when it comes to my suit even though it already has a small mended hole. I should beat it up a bit more since I actually got it pretty damn cheap. The set was like 170, I have worn it in all sorts of occasions.

My style is not yohji everyday and almost nothing I own except my yohji pieces are black. Honestly the piece you posted looks great and I would just let it do it’s thing, but get a nice brush, it’s a life saver.
 

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