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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    ok turns out the tag says "womens" on the womens pieces and I assume the one that doesnt say it is not a womens piece ...
     
  2. Fycus

    Fycus Senior member

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    instantly thought of this:

    [​IMG]
     
    4 people like this.
  3. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    naija boy ! i have been monitoring that same jacket you posted in last fit, i wasn't sure about the little dash of color on the lapel, but it's available to me in size 3 ... and now i want it :)
     
  4. APK

    APK Senior member

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    Dipping my toes in the Yohji waters:

    [​IMG]

    I had this tucked away in my pile of bookmarks months ago. Now, ordinarily, I'd let it fester away in my bookmarks until it finally sold out, at which point, I'd text shah to complain about it. But in a rare moment of consumer foresight, I actually bought it during Yoox's spring promotion last week instead of further lamenting the purchase.

    I'm a relative foreigner to the knit world, but even a novice can feel that this is quality stuff. It's mostly shah's fabric enemy (cotton), but it's partly cashmere, which makes for an incredibly soft knit. It's rare I handle a garment where I actually want to go find someone and say, "Hey, feel this." But this is one of those instances.

    The pattern is also cool because, as mentioned earlier about those anime knits, the pattern is actually separate fabric that's knitted into the rest of the sweater. The pattern is actually what first caught my attention, since it's subtle while still holding some distinction.

    Now I just need to get over the mental barrier of worrying about catching this on something.
     
    2 people like this.
  5. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    I think any tags that don't have "women's" still refer to the women's collection. All the men's pieces I have seen are all "Pour Homme"


    Wow, that sounds pretty interesting. Would you mind doing a quick picture of the nordic patternwork? Would really like to see that.


    You should do it. I also hesitated for the longest time on it, but it is indeed a really nice jacket and the linen is very nice and light too.


    Nice purchase APK. And yeah, all of Yohji's knits that I have handled are truly excellent. It's probably getting boring to hear me say this, but if I was in a temperate region, I would have way too many of his knits by now. And yeah, I agree with Parker. Any holes might even add some more character to it :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2012
  6. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    i am really torn, will debate it some while longer and hope it doesn't sell [/APK] :p

    but the jacket is Y's , it wouldn't say "Pour Homme" anyway. Y's has women's too , you see, and it says so on the tag.

    mens: Y's or Y's for men ?
    women: Y's femme (or something like that)

    well you can decide tomorrow :devil:
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2012
  7. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Ah ok. Well, that's definitely more confusing. I have seen Y's for men that does not have the qualifier as well. :D
     
  8. Torchiere

    Torchiere Active Member

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    Yohji's knits are indeed really good. I've got a colour block knit with varying weaves that's easily one of my favourite pieces in my wardrobe.
     
  9. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

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    Yes, the Y's mens and womens can be confusing. Very early Y's (men) just said "Y's" but had a green tag, making them easier to differentiate. Later pieces were labeled "y's for men", making it much easier still. The most recent men's are just labeled "Y's" again, leading to more confusion. Of the later pieces, I have seen women's tags that look identical to the men's. Plus the women's line is typically meant to be more masculine. The best way to tell, if you really care, is to look at the materials tag. Labels starting in M are Y's for men, labels starting in Y are for women. The cuts can be quite similar, and I am sure yoox and ebay listers have made the mistake on more than one occasion.

    On another note, I'll try to post a pic of one of my anime sweaters later tonight.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Yeah, this is how you do it. Remember there are several Y's lines for men and at least two of them are not differentiating between mens and womens on the label. The "aggressive" Y's is the runway line up until SS06 or so? Shown at the same time as YYPH until and incl SS05. Then there's the regular Y's tag, I think it's a square black tag with a brown/khaki Y's character? The 'dyed' khaki Y's for men tags also signifies runway items. The thinner olive colored one is the regular Y's for men tag that has been around since forever. There was also a black one in the same strip shape that was a more formal sub-line, now discontinued? There was also the strip shaped tag in grey in the late 00's- Oh, and the red label Y's that was based on Yohji's wardrobe and got discontinued a while back.

    The women's is white on black, looks slightly different that the men's line.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2012
  11. aether

    aether Senior member

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    Hopefully i'm not blowing up anyone's spot by posting this but I wanted to know if this could potentially fit me?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/YS-FOR-MEN-...C_Outerwear&hash=item4ab5e0692e#ht_500wt_1204

    it's tagged 3 but they state it would fit a large. I am OK with the fit not being oversized, and if it fit like a normal fitted coat I would be happy.

    I am a 43.75" chest when I measured yesterday and they state the chest is 44-45, and I stand 6'1. Could it fit?

    Also, what style coat is this called where the hem is cut away like that?


    EDIT: which season? any runway/fit pics?
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2012
  12. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Hmm, in general with your measurements I would advise for a size 4 but this does seem to be cut quite large, so you might be lucky with this. Won't be oversized on you. If you want a more 'true' YY fit you should definitely try to go for 4 in most cases.



    Cutaway :foo:



    Pretty sure this is AW03 but I can't say without seeing the tag code. This wasn't on the runway but some jackets with similar detailing was, however with a different tag (see above) which makes me a little unsure.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  13. syed

    syed Well-Known Member

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    Apologies for derailing the conversation, but I heard this in passing today and honestly thought they were singing 'Yohji Yamamoto' :rotflmao:

     
    5 people like this.
  14. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    ok here we go:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2012
  15. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    yes!



    edit: ok, in addition, like this (sort of):

    y's red label/runway line

    [​IMG]



    y's runway line

    [​IMG]



    y's for men runway/lookbook

    [​IMG]



    y's for men "black" line (more formal, I think)

    [​IMG]



    y's for men "regular" line

    [​IMG]


    there's also a grey/silver version of the last two
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2012
    2 people like this.
  16. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    That's great reference asobu, will be saving those pics. Hehe. That reminds me, I really have to update the OP with some of this stuff...:violin:

    I finally got the wool gabardine hakama pants from Drew (ordered them with the last batch of stuff, but they were not at the store and they had to get them in) and they are actually more different from the cotton jersey ones I received earlier than I thought. The pleating on these is of course more structured because of the fabric and they are wider. There are four pockets - 2 side pockets and 2 rear pockets - on the wool gab ones, the cotton ones only have two side pockets. I think the wool gab ones are also slightly longer but I haven't compared them yet. Really like the way they look and feel in motion.

    As always construction is top notch and the wool gab is great. They are the ones in look 37, not sure whether these are the same as the ones wire has. Will put up pics of them side-by-side tomorrow if anyone's interested.
     
  17. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    did Shah just use that word. [​IMG]

    +2mill
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Whilst I am an absolute sucker for YYPH knits, I am also getting increasingly saddened by the fact that more & more of his knits are now made in China. You probably won't be able to tell the difference in quality between a MIJ and MIC knit, however to me being " Made in Japan " adds a certain degree of authenticity and therefore desirability that somehow justifies the high price.
     
  19. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    whenever you or asobu talk about the wool gab pieces, especially in motion, i become green with envy!!

    :drool: ...can wait to see those wool gab hakamas in motion :slayer:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    i can only imagine how the buckles on the pants swing when you walk, asobu!!
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2012
  20. elephantstone

    elephantstone Active Member

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    I guess it's a bit much to ask the designers to pass down the savings to customers?? I have the same mentality problem when buying stuff from Ann D...Most of her garments are now produced in Portugal, Poland Morocco etc instead of Belgium and Italy. Price is still exorbitantly high yet quality has dropped drastically in the past few years....I just hope same thing won't happen to Yohji......
     

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