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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. ceoceo

    ceoceo Senior member

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    Yohji is very fluent in English!
     
  2. indesertum

    indesertum Senior member

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    what does that even mean

    why is the rubinacci aesthetic so lauded why is the dior homme look so lauded


    just look at the runways yourself. if you like then great if not then whatever. some people really like that loose drapiness with the wide masculine shoulders. next level hobo steez
     
  3. Lane

    Lane Senior member

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  4. snake

    snake Senior member

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    I think size 3 is closer to a 48. I like some of his jackets and coats but never come across any size 1.
     
  5. Lionheart Biker

    Lionheart Biker Senior member

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    @indesertum

    It´s just tiring to see people who look at yohji pants and go: "awful fit, why so baggy?" It´s one thing if you don´t know that Yohji fits that way, but when you do, criticizing things it just sounds so narrow minded. It´s not like they´re trousers someone bought 3 sizes bigger; it´s just the style, the aesthetics of the brand. That was the reason for my comment.
    Just because something is not part of the style you like or your way to approach dressing, that doesn´t mean it sucks. For example, I hardly ever wear a suit, never in my life have I put on a Pocket square or cufflinks, but I can appreciate a look thas has all those elements. Being used to certain elements doesn´t make them better than others. Suggesting to tailor a pair of yohji pants, to me, sounds like a travesty.
    Anyways, I don´t wanna derail this thread anymore. Iwvri is really doing a great job here, explaining Yohji, his inspirations, his thoughts on fashion, giving some history lessons, etc. I don´t contribute much because, well, I don´t know much about the brand, specially when there are quite a few experts here, but I do visit the thread daily and have been learning bit by bit thanks to a lot of posters.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2012
  6. indesertum

    indesertum Senior member

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    it's like any hobby in the world. you could be watching the most talented ballerina or listening to the most talented violinist on a strad in the subway and most people wouldnt know because that's not what they're into. oh twirls and spins and leaps. great. looks cool. wow lots of fast notes. awesome. next

    you're not going to give amadei porcelana bars to a person who thinks godiva is awesome or a glass of selosse to a person who thinks andre is where it's at or pliny to a person who thinks heinekein is the shit


    your response could be oh no shit? baggy pants huh? great analysis

    there's a masculinity to the shape a certain carelessness (dare i say approaching sprezzatura) in the flow of the clothing that is very appealing to some people. other people might not get it. but ultimately there is no formula to it that you can explain to people

    close minded people will be close minded. let them be ignorant.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2012
  7. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yeah he seems to be. Takes a while for him to gather his thoughts in English it seems though which is I guess to be expected.


    A 46 would be a 2, but depending on how tall you are/how you want it to fit, you could pull off a 3. I don't know how that particular item fits, maybe someone who has seen it in person could chime in, but you could always get measurements as well.



    Once someone is arguing from the narrow perspective of what they know to be right and wrong with regards to aesthetic matters, it is very hard to make them see anything different. Especially when they feel that they need to be on the defensive. Easiest way to do it is to slowly erode their view of the world passively keeping cognitive dissonance to a minimum until they become more receptive to direct conversation.

    It's like growing up somewhere then moving to another place with completely different cultural paradigms. Takes some adjustment and that adjustment is best done by just living in the place. If someone came up to you and tried to convince you of the 'rightness' of their own culture compared to yours, you would bring up defenses and possibly not listen to them (unless you were already an open minded individual which most people aren't). However, over time, it is possible that you may begin to understand aspects of their culture and maybe even begin appreciating it with respect to yours. The main problem here I think is that on some level, some MC people see the existence of SW&D and conceptual fashion in general as a vague threat to their own sense of style. The way some homophobic people are threatened by homosexuals because of some subliminal insecurity they have about their own sexuality and beliefs. When your sense of identity is not well-defined it is easy to get threatened by anything that makes you question it.

    Having typed that though, in the grander scheme of things it is not necessary for one to "get" Yohji. His aesthetic is certainly not for everyone and if it causes repulsion in some people I think in a way that also fulfills his goals too. He wouldn't be successful at being anti-fashion, anti-fit and avant-garde if everybody that liked fashion, fit and the status quo were not in some way insulted by what he does :nodding:.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2012
  8. valter

    valter Senior member

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    Since Bob Dylan has recently been mentioned here as an influence, it takes us to another side of the Master: Yohji the Musician.

    He has recorded three albums: Well I Gotta Go, HEM: Handful Empty Mood and Dog of Terror.

    Yohji also played some live guitar music on at least one runway show, can't remember what collection.

    I have the first two albums, they're all Japanese. Dog of Terror has some English tracks on it, that would be interesting to hear, I've only found short clips of them.

    Here is link to one interview where at the end Yohji's being asked about his music:
    http://www.emis.at/yohjiinterview.html
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2012
  9. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    I prefer a designer ( a dress maker as Yohji calls himself ) to be controversial and dividing opinions to one that falls in line with the traditional world of fashion.
     
  10. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    interviewer: [you sound] A little bit like Leonard Cohen.

    Yohji: That's enough. Cut it out!

    LOL!! :laugh:
    id like to listen to some of it!!
     
  11. valter

    valter Senior member

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    Last edited: May 13, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Haha, yeah. I actually should track down a few of the songs myself. There's a very small clip of Yohji playing the guitar and singing on the Y-3 vid and that seemed pretty nice.

    Expect a PM from me Valter :)
     
  13. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Hmm, just realised that its Monday and we are owed pics of Brad in Yohji :happy:
     
  14. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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  15. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I really like that AW 08 collection. It's got some subtle mod/punk overtones with the Docs, cropped and pegged pants and did I see a couple fishtail parkas? The sweaters are even a bit in that punk-Vivienne Westwood tradition. The overall silhouette is cool: big overcoat, cropped pants and chunky boots. I'm going to try this for sure. But, it made me think that the proportions really have to be right. This one is not as easy for the shorter guy as some of the other Yohji silhouettes. The pants have to break right above the boot and the coats need to end with just enough room to show some pants leg underneath. Looks great on those 6'4" models with more real estate to work with.

    Also more Dylan. And Elvis Costello. Gen-X's Dylan?
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2012
  16. Lane

    Lane Senior member

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    im borderline a 44 though, so I dunno
     
  17. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yeah the look is really killer. If I could get one or two more pairs of pants and jeans with a crop like that either AW07-08 or AW04 (where he also visited a similar look and has some pants done with adjustable hem heights via a zipper) I would probably wear variations of that look everyday. I try and do a ghetto version of that with my AW10 pants, but obviously the cut is way different.
     
  18. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    Ivwri - per sales rep in dubai branch of IF , the womens line follows same numbering system, and they also don't carry any paul harnden

    ps nice new avatar is that from the bbs pic cropped down ?
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2012
  19. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Like david mentioned, the numbering system is the same but with a shift towards 1/2/3 being the standard while 2/3/4 is standard for Pour Homme in Japan, where 1 used to be very rare to find and 5/6 virtually non-existent. As for buttoning (l-t-r, r-t-l) that varies too from jacket to jacket. Not sure what is most common though.
     
  20. kgmessier

    kgmessier Senior member

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    I love a lot of the Yohji pieces, but I have no idea to incorporate them into my more typical wardrobe. There's no way I could afford to purchase an entire outfit of pieces at once. How do you recommend phasing into Yohji? (I saw MoK do it with a recent fit, but I feel it was a rare miss for him.)
     

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