Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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    Interesting thread, thanks.

    Love the thread title btw.
     


  2. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    This -

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    =

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    Only Yohji could make apocalyptic highland gear. It's one of my grail pieces :slayer: and doesn't seem outlandish to me in the slightest when we wear outfits like this on a regular basis in Nigeria -

    [​IMG]

    There's actually a lot that Yohji and some other Japanese designers create that are very similar to African and I guess, specifically Nigerian outfits.


    Thanks and thanks :). Couldn't resist after reading "My Dear Bomb" again.
     


  3. _yoo

    _yoo Senior member

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  4. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Thanks for the links _yoo. Have never come across that website before. Edited the OP and added the two links.
     


  5. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Some close-ups from SS2012

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    Click for more:

    The materials used in this collection vary from soft jersey to silks dyed in the traditional Japanese yuzen method.

    The Victoria & Albert Museum has great videos on some of the processes involved in the production of quite a few of Yohji's garments but they are preventing embedding. You can see them all here - http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/y/processes-techniques/

    As is pretty obvious from the clothes and styling on the runway, the concept behind the collection was a kind of East meets West fusion with hakama pants, kimono inspired prints and materials used for some pants and jackets and things like chaps and some of the jackets and sneakers representing both cultures.

    What is really fascinating to me though, and a major part of why I am so excited by this collection is that the flowing pants and slits behind some of the shirts and jackets all evoke a kind of vulnerability that softens or obfuscates the masculinity of the wearer. A lot of the elements can be seen echoed in his Spring 2012 collection for women as well with a lot of synergy between the two collections. I wonder which one was completed first...

    Yohji has never gone for the typical imagery associated with masculinity (other than to lampoon it or at the very least mock it endearingly - see tiger print boxer shorts worn on top of trousers in his Fall 2009 collection) - as far as I have seen anyway, but in this collection he pushed the silhouette of a man in a skirt, albeit without really making a full-on skirt or dress a la Rick Owens with his Spring 2012 designs.

    This style of masculinity I would wager is pretty straightforward stuff for most Asian and African cultures, but pretty alien in the West (Togas and wrap skirts having been out of fashion for a long time) and I feel like Yohji is again trying to provide an entry point for the modern working man whose wardrobe still hews pretty closely to the standard model of the 2/3 piece suit (this is not the first time that Yohji is playing with men in skirts or typically feminine silhouettes and materials on men and I doubt it will be the last). Of course, one would not style themselves exactly as the models on the runway are styled when going to work, but there are definitely a lot of pieces here that I believe one could wear in a typical setting without coming off too 'extreme'. When I think about monks, priests, and ancient martial orders (samurai, aikido practitioners etc) in reference to these outfits, it matches precisely with the type of masculinity that I prefer. Flexible yet strong.
     


  6. iroh

    iroh Senior member

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    Last edited: Jan 14, 2012


  7. ahtlast

    ahtlast Active Member

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    actually, I think it's quite the opposite.

    I understand the point of masculinity, but too many liken masculinity to body anyway.

    Sure, Yohji's clothes hide the body, but whenever I saw fit pics, the people wearing them radiate utter Zen comfort, something I completely identify with.

    Then again, I haven't seen enough Yohji, and never experienced it physically, but it always seems his fits are very flattering to guys Yohji's shape; small and bulkier build.

    Bad example maybe, but a few months ago, as I noticed Yohji and got more into it, I really liked the whole baginess idea and I pulled out these slightly oversize chinos that fit very roomy. His philosophy really made sense then, after months of exclusively wearing fitted straight jeans. I felt like running most of the time.
     


  8. brad-t

    brad-t Bae Blade

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    iroh lives up well to his reputation as the dumbest motherfucker in sw&d.
     


  9. iroh

    iroh Senior member

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    Last edited: Jan 14, 2012


  10. brad-t

    brad-t Bae Blade

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  11. thatoneguy

    thatoneguy Senior member

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    Im envying his style right meow
     


  12. 1969

    1969 Senior member

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    Are you interested in arriving at an appreciation of this stuff or are you just intent to argue that it's "not right"? If you don't understand something, or if you simply have a different aesthetic that's fine but your position comes across as ignorance. I'll never wear YY but I have great respect and interest for what he's doing because it's so theatrical when compared to the way everyone I know actually dresses.
     


  13. GoldenTribe

    GoldenTribe Senior member

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    I couldn't wear any of those pieces but I definitely appreciate and to some extent envy that he is wearing the hell out of them.

    Any context for the pic, btw (anyone) ?
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2012


  14. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    1969 has said it best I think. The example you give of a T-shirt and jeans shows that you might have very traditional notions of what is aesthetically pleasing to you. That's cool, but please keep in mind that Yohji Yamamoto is not a traditional designer. He didn't start out as such, and I doubt he will change any time soon. If you don't 'get' the aesthetic, then maybe it would be better if you ignored the thread altogether or changed your approach. It shouldn't be a case of coming here and asking that people should "convince" you of the superiority of Yohji's designs compared to more traditional and dare I say mundane offerings. Maybe if you started by looking at the references and design inspirations for the looks and outfits here exclusive of external comparisons to more traditional masculine outfits it would make a lot more sense down the road. No one looks at a Picasso and asks that it be proven he made better paintings than Leonardo Da Vinci...


    I don't have any unfortunately. I am even struggling to remember where I grabbed it from :embar:
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2012


  15. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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    this.
     


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