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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Wire is gunning for SS12 with those sales haha!
     
  2. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    And buy asobu's AW08 Handstitched 2B blazer! It has the most amazing fabric and construction.

    I had ' fostered ' a few sz 3 pieces from wire in the past. His stuff had always been top drawer. His grail sale is def grail worthy....shame the AW07 ain't my size :(
     
  3. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    +1 on both counts. Would have grabbed the 2B blazer right now off asobu if I could. Got the double-breasted version from him and it is a great piece.
     
  4. brad-t

    brad-t Senior member

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    I think I saw the silk jacket you are talking about. It felt very nice, though the price is very high ... well, everything is haha
     
  5. Guy Burgess

    Guy Burgess Senior member

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    damn those blue shoes at the bottom of the first pic impolyt_one posted look amazing.
     
  6. NovemberFire

    NovemberFire Member

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    Hey guys, 1st time posting here. Received the S/S12 Reversible shirt from look 1 today, and after getting measurements on the 2 and 4 (no 3 available) I went with the 2 and was surprised it basically fits me like the show and I'm a 48, 6ft tall. I was told it wasn't made in a 3, can anyone confirm this?
     
  7. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    +1. That pic is seriously making me consider getting a pair from LN-CC.


    I don't know myself, but mine is a 4 so I guess it is possible a 3 was not made. It may also depend on where you picked it up from since that particular store may not have received any in a size 3 at all. It makes sense in a way I guess, a size 3 would not have a place to fit on that continuum if the 2 hangs on you the way it does on the model, considering we are pretty close in height. It is odd since it seems last season the sizing was 1, 3 and 5 for such items...
     
  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Since the hakama post went down well, I thought I would do another one on August Sander. Another muse of Yohji's.

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    August Sander's cyclic model of society can be seen most recently in Yohji's AW12-13 collection. His view of what constituted the archetypal contemporary man is also a definite influence on how Yohji approaches his mens clothing. Made for the everyman and with a rumpled, lived in aesthetic that is free from any airs (even though paradoxically its high cost limits access to it generally and means that one ends up with a higher number of the bourgeois wearing his clothes).

    AW12-13 looks with associated archetypes -

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    Yohji has visited the Sanders cyclic model of society quite a few times, but I am too lazy right now to go grab pics and name seasons :p. Spring 2011 are AW99 are the ones that immediately spring to mind though.

    In the movie "A Notebook on Cities & Clothes", Wim Wenders talks about how both he and Yohji really like August Sanders and own copies of his seminal work, Men of the 20th Century. It is a book on portraiture and looking at it, one can see why Yohji would be drawn to August Sander's artistic sensibilities, ideas about contemporary man and his work.

    It is also interesting that he got into architectural studies later in his life as Yohji is also pretty interested in architecture, with his issue of A Magazine including a section on the Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid and his clothes have been described as "architectural" by many fashion critics.

    Yohji is definitely a designer very interested, and maybe even trapped, in a romantic view of the past "With my eyes turned to the past, I walk backwards into the future", bringing in designs and views that would be at home in the late 1800s or early 1900s from both the East and the West and putting his own spin on things.

    I am very interested in doing more research into the cultural links that Germany and Japan have as I see a lot of fascination with German design, imagery and even words in so many aspects of modern/pop Japanese culture. Would be interesting to see what similarities if any one could dig up from the two nations.


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    images via Getty museum
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  9. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Great post. Enjoyed seeing those Sander pics. Have you seen the full volume of Men of the 20th Century? I know Fuuma was talking about his work several years ago. I was looking for it back then, before I had seen the Wenders documentary, but never managed to find a copy at the time.



    AW11 gives me very strong Sander vibes, it also has a broader variety of classic pieces. I can see what you mean about AW99 though I think that collection is much more focused and detail oriented than, for instance, aw11.


    Love this quote!
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2012
  10. robinsongreen68

    robinsongreen68 Senior member

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    fantastic stuff ivwri. i've always loved this image, but had never made a conscious connection with yohji, although in hindsight the influence is evident

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    Last edited: Mar 30, 2012
  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    I almost picked up a copy last month from amazon.co.uk then got distracted with work. By the time I remembered to get some money on my debit card, it was sold out :(. Now I have to pretend I can't see the exorbitantly priced copy on amazon.com. Sigh. Definitely want a copy though. The photography is truly sublime and I find it even doubly interesting since I am usually drawn to photos of architecture and landscapes etc. rather than portraits. So the fact that August Sander's work is striking a chord with me is very cool.

    robinsongreen68 that picture is indeed very cool! So many little things that one can keep on noticing every time you come back to look at a particular image of his.
     
  12. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    Bizarre question :embar: but how is the sizing on the womens stuff ? Still 2,3,4 etc ? And would the jackets be right-over-left or left-over-right ? Well I do have a good reason to ask but anyway...thanks in advance for heads up
     
  13. NovemberFire

    NovemberFire Member

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    Yeah I picked it up from Atelier. And Curtis also mentioned with Yohji, when buyers are at the showroom, they can actually choose different proportions of any given size if they wish. Anyway, quality, fabric, seams, button spacing and everything is incredible. By the way does anyone by chance have the S/S 2012 item codes w/pics by chance? Thought I read something in a previous post. Any help is appreciated.
     
  14. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    I have one of those pink sweaters w. cartoon, they're pretyt fun to wear as only one size was made so on me they're more like a dress.
     
  15. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    what boots mr wire?
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  16. syed

    syed Well-Known Member

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    Ivwri: Have you checked out Face of Our Time? It was Sander's first published work (costs normal paperback price) and it has 60 portraits of various professions. In Notebook Wim Wenders talks about the 'truth' of the garment, which rather nicely mirrors Döblin's essay at the start of the book of how the portraits by Sander allow you to see the 'truth' of the person. Plus Yohji talks about people in the past being part of their outfits, of how their professions and lives showed in what they wore, so the fact that the book has the various professions really allows you to see that. I find it quite magical to look at all of these people so obviously dressed and looking like what they are described as being - whether locksmith, three generations of farmers (the difference between the grandfather and the young father is quite remarkable), or redundant seaman.

    With regards to the link between Germany and Japan, Wenders picks up on it saying that both he and Yohji are from the post-War generation (from countries which were both defeated, and both their fathers fought as soldiers) so they grew up sharing that link in terms of upbringing and values. The fact that Yohji talks of his clothing being armour from outside eyes is perhaps rather touching in that sense. I think the generational gap between him and Hanae Mori shows through the work, especially when you place his work alongside Rei's as well, both are more bleak yet at the same time have a vein of humour. Mori's work is very traditional and decorative, fully steeped in Japanese-ness (for want of a better phrase), however Yohji and Rei have always eschewed that link regardless of how much it is present to outside eyes.

    I also think it is interesting that Yohji runway shows are always considered by how the outfits look from the front, despite the fact that he says everything starts from the back. I suppose we immediately look to the front because of the face, but the fact that he places such great emphasis on the back makes me think about that. He says that because his mother had to raise him herself, being a war widow, she was always working and as such his memories of her are always of her back - leaving him. So now he says he always pictures women from their backs, leaving him and he tries to call them back (I think he writes about that in My Dear Bomb too). It is interesting to consider the symbolism of it though, whether it is conscious or not, of a strong back making a strong woman (plus the addition of the Japanese tradition of the back of a woman's neck being a point of beauty).

    In case this has not already been posted:

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
    3 people like this.
  17. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Hi Syed,

    Glad to see you posting on here.

    Yeah the WW2 link between Germany and Japan is definitely a strong one and I guess that sort of experience would make close bedfellows. Was there anything else that encouraged active cultural exchange though? With regards to Yohji in particular, looking at it a bit more, I guess it makes sense that that aura of a country and its people recovering from losing a war (or two actually, including the Great war) would strike a major chord with him. There is a certain kind of melancholy, resilience and humour that can only come from this sort of landscape I think...

    It is interesting seeing people like Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo as being among the first generation of Japanese creatives showing a "global Japanese outlook", getting their inspiration from across their borders and not directly identifying with what could be considered as the "great Japanese empire", eschewing nostalgia for a romanticised past of their own nation and finding inspiration elsewhere. Most of the current crop of Japanese designers now seem to be re-importing their innovations and designs via Europe and in particular via the Belgian designers so I guess that mentality stayed the same as generations passed in Japan. It's just a shame that in a roundabout manner, they are still taking in Japanese DNA and may not have enough that's new.

    I was discussing this with asobu a while back about how I cannot see which Japanese designer will be able to carry the torch of either Yohji or Rei once they pass on. Like Yohji said "to be modern is to tear the soul out of everything" and it really feels to me that most of the current crop of Japanese designers are more caught up with being cool and edgy. This can result in some truly beautiful clothes, but they seem to lack that "soul". To me at least at any rate.

    I am actually picking up Face of our Time from Amazon as we speak so looking forward to browsing through that. Only ever seen Sander's work online and of course via Notebook on Cities and Clothes.

    I really enjoy the fact that Yohji is always paradoxical - he says he hates fashion, but works within it, he says he starts clothes from the back yet shows from the front, he hates retrospectives yet he constantly references his past work (even if only subconsciously), he says he is not a Japanese designer and yet uses explicitly Japanese influences in his work - makes me feel that for all the accolades he has been given and the analysis his work gets at the end of the day he is only human and possibly doesn't take himself seriously :).

    edit - oh yeah and the vid has been posted earlier in the thread, but it's all good :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2012
  18. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  19. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    looking at yohji makes me want to be an older japanese chap, with swag
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2012
  20. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    ^^very poignant, parker. :) I think that whole collection really showed what he wanted to do for himself, from himself -- the man, artist, creator.


    thanks for coming over here to post syed, I like your contributions over at SZ too so I hope you stick around.


    edit: his work might or might not start from the back, i think he places a lot of emphasis on it and the curves from the nape of the neck down the back, but I wouldn't assume that he necessarily wants his clothes to presented back first. Didn't he often say that a strong back makes the front, or something in that vein? Either way (unfortunately?), fashion is fed to us from the front, for Yohji as well.


    edit2:


    and this is key, imo.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2012

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