Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[StevenE]

The most recent S/S collection seemed unusually expensive to me, so IMO it's not just an AW thing - though too an extent AW's usually going to have denser clothes and heavy coats and things which are more likely to be expensive.

I only hopped on the yohji train in late 2010 and i'd say the average price has moved somewhat - or at least i'm seeing a few more items in the conduit street store breaking the £2,000 mark (like those beautiful SS jackets that looked rain soaked).

I'd also observe that there used to be a few more jackets and things at maybe £700ish (there's an odd £900 still though I think), where as now many more seem to fall around the £1,200 1,500 mark - but this is quite rough impressions because it's not like im walking around the store with a clipboard, pulling out the price tag and taking note - but certainly when I have noticed prices, they come in quite high.

To put a positive spin on it, you could say it's a sign of how ambitious some of the recent collections have been, but I just wish it was easier for us to pay Japanese prices.

 

[the shah]

nowfashion.com

Quote:

 

[TroubIe]

Holy, I'm not sure if this has been posted before but it is amazing!

A segment from a Japanese show covering FW91 6.1 The Men :

I believe the two men being interviewed towards the end are Haruomi Hosono and Yukihiro Takahashi of Yellow Magic Orchestra.

 

[the shah]

lot of closeup images

 

[Syeknom]

Stunning, so many amazing details. Thanks for posting these, shah!

I adore the spotlight patches.

 

[TroubIe]

Holy smokes, thanks for uploading all those!

Definitely a better appreciation for the subtle prints and the inner layers after looking through those.

Full video of the show and a random backstage clip with Yohji and Tadashi Kubo :

 

[valter]

-

 

[StevenE]

Some beautiful items, all too big for me though. Did you mean to mark them collection only?

 

[StevenE]

Um on first view not a fan of that Y-3 show. They've had a run of good shows recently but tbh I thought this was maybe the least inspired collection of clothes bearing Yohji's name (well, initial) I've ever seen.

Some nice items through-out though, (though the best looks were front-loaded) and good to see the dog get some more airtime. Didn't help that the set looked like the interior of a Fat Face store though.

 

[colin_]

Anyone on here by chance outbid me today on a pair of yyph pants using FJ?
If so please pm

 

[nootrals]

Hmm, after reading your post, I had a closer look at the label and I'm very surprised to say that I think I may have a fake on my hands. I've compared the grey Yohji Yamamoto tag with the ones on some of my other jackets, and I've noticed that the French text seems to be misspelt. This jacket has "INSTRCTIONS" and "ETIQETTE" instead of "INSTRUCTIONS" and "ETIQUETTE." The weird thing is that the trousers sold with the jacket look legitimate. They have the normal care tag etc. The reason I thought the jacket was almost new is the fact that the pockets were still sown together. I've only ever handled one nearly new Yohji jacket. Does any one know if the pockets of Yohji's jackets are ever sown together when new? The only other explanation I can think of is that it is some kind of "mistake" piece, where the tag was printed incorrectly, and maybe the seller somehow got their hands on it, hence the new appearance. I'll be very annoyed if it is a fake. Here are the pictures of the tags in the jacket:

Alright, dredging this conversation up again from page 268-ish (check that for more context). Been lurking this thread occasionally for a few years as I've found Yohji fascinating and relevant but never made much of an actual effort to try his clothes out. I decided today to purchase my first YYPH piece at a consignment shop (Actually, I had come across it last week, left the thing, and went back for it today... a pair of 100% wool navy pants, five-pocket denim-esque ones in size 4).

I am trying to find out what era these pants might be from or if they're even real. The tag is just like the one from the jacket posted by Arche in the quote above - made in France, no fabric codes or other info on the back of the tag. These pants are also a 4 and have a separate size label which I understand is unusual or unheard of in Yohji. Pic of my pants below. What do you guys think? Could this be a fake? Any other ideas? Have I found the long-lost bottom half of Arche's jacket above?

 

[Ivwri]

The more I think about it, the more I love this SS15 collection, hehe. Haven't had a proper look at the Y-3 one yet, but will do so later on today hopefully.

Really happy to see Yohji on such a roll and with more stockists lining up to pick up some stuff from more recent seasons it seems. Looks like business is looking up for him!

Thought I would post a picture today. I got an amazing suit courtesy of @Parker from SS09. Cupro mesh over off-white (cream?) linen. Soooooooooooo good! Was planning on posting a photo of me in it a few days back, but forgot completely. Will do so soon.

Today -

Spoiler: Extras

YYPH (50% silk 50% cotton and 100% cotton knit)
YYPH (belt, leather)
YYPH (Wool and 95% wool 5% polyurethane wrap)
Dr Martens x YY

Rainy day today (as it has been since the weekend actually), and this is keeping me pretty comfortable in the store with all the air conditioning, hehe. Trousers are from AW05 and are a really gorgeous wool with a sort of boiled/felted texture and dry hand. Woven pin stripes in two thicknesses run down them and the seams at the sides have an overlapping strip of fabric that has frayed edges. Super oversized and I am wearing a size 3. Would have loved to see what the 4 was like, hehe. One of the first Yohji trousers I lusted after that wireartist put on sale . The trousers also have a row of buttons going around the waist below the belt loops that are used for attaching a pretty long knit wrap that can also be buttoned up to adjust the length. Adds a bit of warmth to it so I am wearing it wrapped around the back to reduce that. Thought it looked cool too.

Shirt is from either SS08 or AW02 and as you can see the back and sleeves are made from a knitted cotton. Really like the construction and how long the sleeves are.

Finally broken in the DMxYY boots so they are super comfy now and great for sloshing through water (loads of minor flooding at the moment over here) when necessary.

 

[davidlee388]

@Ivwri effortlessly cool. The essence of Yohji-ness.

 

[the shah]

​

The real rock stars of fashion are the people behind the veneer of design, who have a broader view of design than whoever's 'in fashion' at any one time. We're inspired by those who have challenged, championed and provoked from within, with a worldly, intimate knowledge of the rules, those who broke them and who know how to break them.

We were lucky enough to be invited to meet Irene Silvagni at her home in Provence, France and what was meant to be a short interview about her inspirations, turned into a long lunch and hours of footage about her role as creative director of Yohji Yamamoto. It was obvious the only person who would bring our interview to life in an authentic and meaningful way was Debra Scherer, whose background includes French and Italian Vogue, and, like Irene, has witnessed and shaped one of the most creative and imaginative times in fashion history, from within. This film is a uniting of fashion's secret rock stars, if you like.

Fast forward to the edit, I asked Debra what we should call the film and she told me about the concept of “Mono No Aware”, a Japanese literary concept about empathy towards the beauty of things as well as an awareness of impermanence and the sadness that brings.

Perfect, not because we’re nostalgic, on the contrary, because it captures the depths of creativity that comes from a darker, more thoughtful imagination than today’s perfect shiny culture.

“I think perfection is ugly. Somewhere in the things humans make, I want to see scars, failure, disorder, distortion.” – Yohji Yamamoto

This film is about a fashion subculture that, at first, pissed off the French, and then, became revered with the real doyenne of Japanese fashion at the helm.

Short video: https://www.byronesque.com/editorial/irene-silvagni-the-real-doyenneof-japanese-fashion

 

[dantebykiko]

Irene and Franca still there and still care.