Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

    Messages:
    1,513
    Likes Received:
    4,131
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    Really like these looks, but the 96 collection as a whole really looks interesting.

    [​IMG]


    Really looking for a double-breasted jacket that's as large as this one. I dunno what it is about the silhouette that attracts me.

    [​IMG]

    Still looking for this jacket from SS11 as well -

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I think I saw that knit with the tape measure design on eBay not too long ago as well. Looks really good worn.
     


  2. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    7,832
    Likes Received:
    12,995
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    Yerba Buena
    Wow, thanks for posting all those 90s collections, asobu. The women's AW 94-95 was great. I'm liking Yohji's menswear more and more. It's nice to see him work with color in those older collections. Better for my pale skin. Although I would wear that black ruler knit in a second. Can't believe ivwri just saw it on ebay.

    I had this image in my clothes folder for awhile. Don't remember where I found it but I think it's mid-90s Yohji. Some cool details on the shoulders and elbows.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2012


  3. asobu

    asobu Senior member

    Messages:
    2,211
    Likes Received:
    583
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2007
    Haha, I posted that one on SZ a long time ago. It's from a Washida book. That particular shot is from the SS01 collection, I agree it's amazing.

    Glad you liked the old stuff anyway!

    I've actually seen the ruler knit both in store and online and passed on it twice. I prioritized and thought I wouldn't get much wear out of it but I agree it's very cool.


    Ivwri, yes! I agree there's something alluring about those wide DBs. He did a lot of double breasted jackets in the 90's, way more compared to these days and more or less all of them fit very wide.
     


  4. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

    Messages:
    1,513
    Likes Received:
    4,131
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    I wish Yohji would launch some sort of legacy line that did re-issues of his classic pieces. Even if he updated the cuts slightly etc. I think there could be a good market for easily available vintage items especially from a designer like him with such a large oeuvre.

    @ asobu - Yeah, from the images I have seen it definitely seems so. Was pretty disappointed that I wasn't able to find any of those elongated DB's from SS11, but on the lookout for any nice ones in my size :). Jumpsuits/overalls are also on my list :nodding:

    Saw that image on SZ as well I think. Such great details as you guys said.
     


  5. ManofKent

    ManofKent Senior member

    Messages:
    8,395
    Likes Received:
    19,899
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2008
    Location:
    Garden of England
    Has anyone had any thoughts on other brand shirts that would work with YY?
     


  6. xumatrix

    xumatrix Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    45
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2011
    jacket and trouser by yohji and no brand name shirt

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     


  7. xumatrix

    xumatrix Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    45
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2011


  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

    Messages:
    1,513
    Likes Received:
    4,131
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    In my own experience Ann Demeulemeester has a few shirts that work and I just picked up a shirt by Emiliano Rinaldi so will know how that works out on Monday. From images online it looks like it should though. Damir Doma as well has some shirts that can work in terms of volume and cut, but most of the shirts come with a very particular aesthetic so your mileage may vary.

    I have seen some shirts from Lost & Found that look interesting, but I haven't tried any on myself and KVA seems to have some shirts that should work in theory, but I don't own any myself.

    Would really like to get contributions from others on here though.
     


  9. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

    Messages:
    5,358
    Likes Received:
    4,432
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2011
    Do the YY shirts fit 'normally' in the shoulders and balloon out from there? I've seen photos, but I'm trying to figure out how they avoid just looking like they're a size too big while still having a lot of volume.
     


  10. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

    Messages:
    44
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2012
    First time poster on here, been in the Yohji game for a little while. Joined just for this thread actually... Anyway to answer the question about matching other brands' shirting: there are a variety of other brands that go well with Yohji that have not been mentioned so far. Usually workwear oriented type brands with a baggier fit will substitute nicely for a Yohji shirt. By this I mean stuff like engineered garments, 45 rpm, paul harnden and even RRL if you want to go that route. As Yohji often has a workwear feel of his own there can be a pretty decent overlap depending on what you have.

    As far as the sizing for the shirts goes, there can be some variability. In my opinion the earlier collections tend to have wider shoulders and shorter sleeve lengths. The look is intentionally oversized at the shoulder, but then comes to a normal length at the sleeve. These kinds of shirts are usually meant to be tucked in. The more recent collections tend to have a regular shoulder size and then get wider in the body as mentioned. As always there is a big variety with some shirts fitting slimmer than others, regardless of size. It's always best to check measurements first (or try them on) and see what works for you.
     


  11. asobu

    asobu Senior member

    Messages:
    2,211
    Likes Received:
    583
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2007
    ^Welcome, D! Hope you stick around and bring your knowledge to the thread.
     


  12. bows1

    bows1 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,674
    Likes Received:
    6,091
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2008
    Location:
    Brooklyn
    Damn this thread is like a beacon for Yohji fans :slayer:
     


  13. wireartists

    wireartists Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    75
    Likes Received:
    67
    Joined:
    May 28, 2008
    

    indeed

    why don't you go all buy YYPH shirts instead, this season is stellar shirting wise
     


  14. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

    Messages:
    44
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2012
    I totally agree, I absolutely love his shirts. Going all out with YYPH is of course not in everyone's budget. I personally like to supplement with Y's which is easier on the bank. Also, for those just crossing over I consider the aforementioned brands a good sort of intermediary bridge. It can take some time and effort to become fully immersed, and at least in my case it took a fair amount of time to learn about the different collections and find what does and does not work for me.

    On a different note, does anyone happen to know where to get photos or a video of the complete AW 04-05 collection? It is one of his better ones in my opinion. I know vogue UK has pics, but they've got 48 out of what looks like 78 listed for some reason. Any info is appreciated.
     


  15. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

    Messages:
    1,513
    Likes Received:
    4,131
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    Yea I agree that for a lot of people the mainline shirts do cost quite a bit and that limits how many one can get, but they are truly excellently made. My problem is that because I got on the wagon late, all I can do at the moment is pick up shirts as they are released with the current seasons and whenever I can find some sold on eBay etc. I am currently in the middle of rebuilding my basics and shirts are definitely a necessity for me right now. Having said that, Y's shirts seem to turn up quite a bit on eBay so definitely looking at that as an alternative source of shirts as well.

    Can't wait to get my hands on the shirts from SS12 though. Some really good stuff as wire said.

    stadsvandringar Welcome to the thread and the forum :D.

    I always thought that the extra blank slots on vogue UK were a mistake because when you check out the same collection on GQ, the extra photo slots are filled up by what looks to be a Tom Ford collection :eek:. When you click on the thumbnails larger images don't show up though so they could be placeholders as opposed to just actual mistakes. Were there actually 78 looks that season?
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2012


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by