Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. trendydandy

    trendydandy New Member

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    I am not sure if it was mentioned already in this Thread,
    But have you seen the documentary with Yohji made by Wim Wenders for Paris George Pompidou center called:
    Notebook on Cities and Clothes!!
    there are some great thoughts about fashion, design, and it is 1989 and is still very relevant and mythical, something that is long lost in todays Glamour fashion
    there all the other parts on youtube as well

    from now on be sophisticated...
    cheers))
     


  2. Guy Burgess

    Guy Burgess Senior member

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    Last edited: Feb 24, 2012


  3. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    It is excellent isn't it? :D Envy you being able to visit the store in person as it sounds really cool from the descriptions. Making a purchase from them as we speak :D. They have the Napoleon cubist blazer in stock, but not in my size any more unfortunately. Will have to wait until it hits the Japanese stores in May.

    Those pants look really good as well. I am hoping to get a few more items in navy as well to do the same :)

    EDIT - @ trendydandy the video was posted quite early on in the thread.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2012


  4. Guy Burgess

    Guy Burgess Senior member

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    Once I manage to get there regularly I can let you know when new stock is in and that, although they're pretty good with that themselves. Still, if you do need any help you know where I am! Oh and yeah the shop is great, the converted chapel is amazing.

    I am excited to see all your SS buys. I didn't even realise the trousers I linked have an elasticated waist, I really am starting to have too many pairs that do, ha.
     


  5. Auburn

    Auburn Senior member

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    This picture is so magnificent. What season is this from and are there any more pictures of those jackets? Definitely one of the most inspiring images I've seen in this thread.
     


  6. 3 Prague Winters

    3 Prague Winters Senior member

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  7. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yeah it is a really great image and awesome dresses to boot. It's from the AW 83 collection. Scary that those dresses were made over 28 years ago.

    EDIT - Really wish I could get my hands on a pair of boots from the YY x DM collab. Some of the boots really look cool. The one 3PW posted are a bit high for me though.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2012


  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    On a side note, according to the tracking page, my first delivery of SS12 is in the country! Expect random, poorly lit fit pics on Monday or Tuesday as I try on stuff :slayer:
     


  9. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

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    received yohji Costume D'Homme pants in wool/cotton/(silk?) blend , they fit really weird :(

    i can barely squeeze into them, yeah yeah #SFat status, but size 3 should fit me ... but unfinished hem makes it really awkward at the bottom as well, i guess they need to be finished in this case and hemmed a bit shorter.

    then I got pour homme linen ones, size 3 (maybe 2 i forgot) and they fit so nice and relaxed, excellent use of volume ending in a ~ 7-7.5" opening. i'm just wondering if they are too voluminous to wear with anything else, i might throw a fit pic tomorrow during the daylight.

    also received Y's boots in black. I once had them in dark brown, made the idiotic mistake of getting rid of them. they feel great, leather is nice, nothing spectacular, but they arrived pre-damaged :lol:
    the sole is splitting from the upper at the front of each boot, and I refuse to believe this is intentional.
     


  10. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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  11. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

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    of course i can send it back, the shah avoids ratty discards from the uncivilized populace to whatever extent possible :teach:

    i would appreciate feedback/advice for the linen though, it would make a great summer pair :eek:
    though it's only slightly darker than a pair of uniqlos i had sized up with tailored taper at bottom.
    and this is rather obvious, the difference in quality is not even something i will discuss ...
     


  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Wow that's pretty bad, especially with the boots :(. Good thing you can return both though.

    The linen pants sound nice, but I can only really comment once you post a pic. I have a pair of really voluminous linen pants from YYPH as well that I don't have problems wearing, but they generally only work with pretty big shirts etc. so if they are anything like that I can understand having reservations about keeping a similar item if you don't have enough stuff to go with them.
     


  13. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

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    there were a pair of blue gabardine cotton trousers seemed perfect for the spring, barneys had for the longest time and then *poof*

    but then again they were very blue , which may make quite tricky. i imagine them with white canvas sneakers and a long gray or even black linen jacket ... and now i want them to come back hehe
     


  14. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    shah, while I wouldn't recommend you to completely stay away from costume d'homme but I really thought think YYPH or Y's is better for you. There are some great staple stuff from costume d'homme like the gabardine overcoats etc but it's definitely a bit formal for what I envision you want to pursue with ann d/dd/yy etc? Basically, if you're gonna blow moniez on Yohji do it on runway YYPH or Y's :teach: Not sure why you got those to begin with, were you looking for a more formal look? Or just look like Beat Takeshi? (who wouldn't btw? his kikujiro steeze of a white open collared rayon shirt and navy wool gabardine pants is basically the best summer outfit there is) I personally feel that a big chunk of YYPH thoughout the years balances the line of formal and informal (skewed towards he latter) better than just about any other line.

    The linen pants sounds delicious, I'll hold off judgement like Ivwri but I highly doubt they are too voluminious to wear. Remember AHAP. :teach: Standard Yohji shirts (that is, big) and a jacket for balance? Or play with proportions and go for something slightly slimmer on top, not form fitting tight though.

    It's unfortunate about the shoes. I'd say footwear is his lowest quality stuff in general, or seem to be, lately at least. I know a few people have had some issues with recent footwear, which is a shame. Not all is bad though, I've been lucky with my stuff so far. My SS08 mid sneaks are holding up admirably, I've worn them for years and years through anything.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2012


  15. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Indeed it is, annoyingly so. I thought I'd share the love and post the few ones I have available from the mid-90s, I thought it's good for people new to his stuff to see what he's been building his menswear on, and too see how things fit back then and can still fit like today. From the stuff I've seen in person, the quality is incredible - probably better than today - this stuff holds up really well so there's no reason to not buy it!! I love a lot of this, these are some of the classic collections from the 90's that people still remember. Hope you guys enjoy this.


    AUTUMN-WINTER 1995

    The theme was 鹿鳴館 (Rokumeikan; Meiji-era Western-style building in downtown Tokyo, constructed in 1883 for entertaining foreign diplomats and dignitaries). From wiki: "In the ballroom, Japanese gentlemen in evening dress imported from tailors in London danced the waltz, polka, quadrille, and mazurka with Japanese ladies dressed in the latest Parisian fashions". At the same time, Yohji also put this cultural blend against an american historical background from the same time, ended up with some urban cowbow amalgamation where cowboy hats were juxtaposed with japanese prints from this era while having a take on european formal wear I guess? Basically a suits collection, many takes on informal and formal suits. From the little I've seen, a fucking great collection. :slayer:

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    SPRING-SUMMER 1996

    "Flowers and boys". He used several 12, 13 year old models for this show. The cuts were very wide, looking at the pics it almost feels like a teenage boy wearing his father's clothes and making them his own in a way. Didn't he have a section in "My dear bomb" alluding to his? The concept I mean, not this particular collection. He did a lot of clever cutout patterns on jackets, gabardine shirts as well as shoes. The other big theme was flowers, lots of flower prints on shirts and jackets (the amazing rose print silk "bomber" on y! is from this collection). The stage was lined with sunflowers and tulips


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    AUTUMN-WINTER 1996


    For this collection he did a lot of layering with bulky knits, complicated inserts, object dyed (similar to aw03), huge velvet coats, corduroy suits. A lot of good stuff in here, imo.


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    ***


    Also, while we are on the topic of 1995 collections, I thought it would be of interest to post these lookbook pics from the women's AW 95-96 and at the same time establish a season for that picture of the cover Ivwri posted earlier.


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