Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

    Messages:
    1,512
    Likes Received:
    4,126
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    Shame I am all tapped out with purchases would have picked this up as well :D. Trying to get a few size 3 jackets for a slightly closer fit (you never know when you need 'em)

    Good luck with the sale though :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2012


  2. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

    Messages:
    16,570
    Likes Received:
    10,784
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2008
    Location:
    lying furtively
    just wanted to say that this morning as i was having a cup of coffee i had on a white tee, so i threw on y's ramie blazer along with wide summer-weight wool damir trosuers and it was stunning :bigstar:

    still too cold for such an outfit though i suspect come spring-time i'll be wearing it quite often.
     


  3. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

    Messages:
    1,512
    Likes Received:
    4,126
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    Damir really goes well with a lot of Yohji. Hopefully I will be able to get the cotton/silk/metal dropcrotch pants from this season as those look awesome as well.

    Speaking of other designers that go well with Yohji, have you guys seen the SS12 Sasquatchfabrix collection? It's their own take on a meeting of Japanese and Western dress (they even have hakamas) and quite a few of the pieces look like they will go well with Yohji as well. Like quite a few of the tops, pants and shoes.
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2012


  4. MyMindSpray

    MyMindSpray Active Member

    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2006
    Sasquatchfabrix is indeed quite nice...i had the opportunity to handle a number of their pieces while i was in Asia last year...slightly more casual, but the quality of the garments were quite good...i agree with you Ivwri, their play on east meets west blends fairly well with Yohji's work...

    While the silhouettes for Damir work well, i still find some of the drappiness of Damir to be slightly off-putting, but there's no doubt that the quality is there...

    I'm actually finding myself more and more intrigued by Siki Im....though some of the buys i've seen (Blackbird) may not appear to be that appealing...Fall/Winter 2011 was quite strong and the quality of the garments are excellent....his trousers in particular blend in nicely with the Yohji look....a handled a pair of dropcrotch wool trouser last season that were superb....very full silhouette, but still flattering.
     


  5. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

    Messages:
    1,512
    Likes Received:
    4,126
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    Funnily enough was just looking at the Siki Im thread over on SZ and it also looks pretty intriguing in terms of fuller cut stuff that can blend with a Yohji wardrobe.

    Have never handled any of his stuff before though, but only heard good things. Might try and see if I can find a boutique in France or Germany that stocks the brand when I travel to Europe later this year.

    Really liked the quality of materials and construction of the few mainline Damir items I have handled in person as well.

    EDIT - Anyone have any recommendations for shirts that go well with YY?
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2012


  6. Auburn

    Auburn Senior member

    Messages:
    188
    Likes Received:
    566
    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2012
    Location:
    Germany
    Yohji always seems to underline the fact that his clothes are produced in Japan, however, while browsing Ebay I've noticed that some pieces are "made in France". Is this simply one of those "made in Italy" type things? Also, I've also noticed some pieces (like this jacket) with a size M, something that isn't referenced in the sizing guide on the first page. Is an "M" the same as a medium in "normal" clothing or, as I assume to be the case a Yohji medium, meaning a 3 or 4?
     


  7. MyMindSpray

    MyMindSpray Active Member

    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2006
    Siki Im is definitely a winner....i have yet to handle their spring/summer items, but the fall/winter items in the past have been good...solid construction and fairly luxurious fabrics...

    I second a request for good shirts....i also find shirting that works well with Yohji to be difficult to find!
     


  8. asobu

    asobu Senior member

    Messages:
    2,211
    Likes Received:
    583
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2007
    

    I agree, it's brilliant. :slayer:

    I thought - in anticipation of the AW12 women's show which is a mere 8 days away at this point - I'd post some more women's stuff from time to time until that show.

    So, what better place to start than one of the best shows I've seen? Also, I guess sort of a spiritual predecessor to the japonism of the SS 2002 collection I just posted, he did two kimono themed collection for 1994-1995 (AW94-95 and SS95). As it happens, the AW94 show was posted on Youtube yesterday! This channel has posted some older collections the last couple of weeks, including the famous pinocchio wooden dress season AW91, as well as SS92. Both of those are worth checking out.

    But for AW94, this is just breathtaking stuff. So goddamn good I can barely comprehend what I just saw, this is practically perfect to me. His take on transforming the kimono patterns, all the intricate layering, cutting, draping, the prints, breaks with white and color, the lightness. Here he seems to have done those illusionary super lowered shoulderIines he also did for AW00, fucking great stuff. Love how these light fabrics are paired with heavy boots. The whole vibe, pacing, music, the plain models... fantastic stuff. I'll post part 1 here, the rest can be linked from there. this is a must see.



    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2012


  9. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

    Messages:
    1,512
    Likes Received:
    4,126
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    Thanks for posting that asobu. That channel is really cool as well. Loads of videos I hadn't seen before. Downloading them all off in case the owner vanishes for some reason :lol:
     


  10. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

    Messages:
    16,570
    Likes Received:
    10,784
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2008
    Location:
    lying furtively
    

    for better or worse, he's tending toward a luxury brand now (even moved his shop accordingly) and so, while still somehow trying to hold on to his defining characteristics, I see much more tailored work in his collections. just the sheer number of blazers being released in less absurd cuts is indicative of this. The upcoming himalayan shaman collection completely negates what i've written for the most part, but the past few shows have highlighted this trend in any case.

    just a note, the trousers are very lightweight wool with slight drop crotch but still very much wool trousers (as opposed to sweatpants or something rick would put out) and DD button up shirts i think would do well with the longer cut but still somewhat slim(-ish) Y's line. of course I say that because I like the few pairings I have myself so take it for whatever it may be worth :eek:
     


  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

    Messages:
    1,512
    Likes Received:
    4,126
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    

    Missed this somehow.

    Older Yohji sizing was S, M, L. I don't know the exact season that changed to the numerical system used now, but as far as I know it is used across mainline and Y's as well.

    All the Yohji pieces I own are made in Japan, but even though he extols the virtues of and dedication to production in Japan, I don't think it would stop him from producing pieces elsewhere.
     


  12. asobu

    asobu Senior member

    Messages:
    2,211
    Likes Received:
    583
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2007
    The change happened between A/W 1999 and S/S 2000, from the year 2000 all sizing is numerical.

    Some very old pieces seem to have been produced in France? I've basically only seen this on eBay. This has not happened in many many years. Recently he has produced a few pieces in China though the vast majority is still produced in Japan.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2012


  13. asobu

    asobu Senior member

    Messages:
    2,211
    Likes Received:
    583
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2007
    

    Haha, me too. God I hope they put up the SS95 show as well, and pretty much the rest of them. Of course if we could see some mid-90's men's shows that would be :slayer:
     


  14. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

    Messages:
    1,512
    Likes Received:
    4,126
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    

    That would be awesome. So hard to find any clips or images from that period.
     


  15. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

    Messages:
    1,512
    Likes Received:
    4,126
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    Taken from The Fashion Spot -

    Yohji bared the independent august 2002

    Excerpt:

     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by