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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    ^ PH line no ? i am pretty sure you are a 3 , possibly even 4 since I believe you are taller than me...

    anyway, I still think yohji can work fine with damir. especially newer season stuff since he's moving toward luxe tailored (-like) and it's less focused solely on drape. well i could be wrong but i tried anyway

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  2. bows1

    bows1 Senior member

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    Yeah it was PH
     
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  3. PregnantBob

    PregnantBob Senior member

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    Yohji fits I find are such a personal thing, by that I mean with a lot of other labels you're dictated on what you should wear and how, but as with the entire point of this thread its that gradual appreciation of 'fit' and understanding the fluidity of the meaning that Yohji offers.

    I wear my cardigans and sweaters in 3s, but most of my jackets are all 2s. Pants... that probably has the biggest variance of all since the sizing label is almost just a rough guide i've found haha.

    Just saying that give the 3 another go, but wear something else with more drape... can't believe i'm saying this, but it's like wearing an emotion.


    ...yeah fuck I actually said it.
     
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  4. PregnantBob

    PregnantBob Senior member

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    Totally agree with Damir, i've got a few t shirts of his both from mainline and silent, goes really well with a yohji cardigan and pants.
     
  5. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Great post. I think it's good to raise awareness around sizing and that things can be allowed to fit differently than one is perhaps used to but I wouldn't say there a given size you have to wear, obviously the important thing is that you like wearing it whatever size it is.

    Funny, when I went to the London store I ended up talking about sizing and the SAs - one of which was a woman who had been working with the company for 25 years - said I would be a 2 or 3, and was a bit hesitant to believe me when I told her that I mainly wear 4 (and 3 as well). The other SA was taller than me and wore a 2 in the gabardine coat. Admittedly that one fit quite big and size 3 was perfect on me and fit me bigger than the runway model look, sleeves to knuckles and all. I still stick by that I think it's not a good thing to size down to the smalles size you can normally "fit" if the balance is off. Looking through a few runway collections gives a pretty good indication on how jackets can fit.

    But yeah, bows, 3 would be good for you. Perhaps try it on with a pair of relaxed pants and I'm sure you'll find it very wearable. Just gotta get used to it. :slayer:
     
  6. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yeah, funnily enough it has been my experience as well that most people who sell Yohji seem to try and get one to wear the "correct" size for their frame, so for me that would be a 3.

    The SA in Paris suggested a 4 for me in some of the items there when I was around last year though so I guess it also harks back to what Pregnantbob said about Yohji fits being a very personal thing.

    I also tend to prefer the larger fits, but I understand when people feel uncomfortable with that. It's like snake trying on some Yohji pants and saying he felt like a caricature, it just may not work for some people. It may also seem more pronounced if worn in isolation without other loose fitting pieces (or certain slim fitted pieces) to "support" it.

    But yeah, it kinda is putting on "an emotion" as Bob said hehe. So it is a personal thing. So much room for personalization.
     
  7. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    I talked to the SAs about sizing before I tried anything on, subsequently I tried on and loved size 4 in almost everything (hakamas x 2, silk jackets etc) but the gabardine coat, and they agreed that those fit me best when worn. Some of the cotton jackets were cut so slim that I wouldn't even be able to button a 3.
     
  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Well, assuming I can't try on the gab coat as well when I get to a flagship store, I will go for a 3 as I think we have similar frames. Definitely like the fit of everything else I got and those are size 4 with the tapered hakama pants being size 5!
     
  9. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Yeah, trying on is definitely the best way to be sure but like you said I think we're looking for a similar fit and I think 3 would be good for you. Since it's a summer coat I don't plan to layer it over anything heavy, I tried it on over just a button up shirt and it felt great. Similar to the fit of the 5 button raw hem gabardine coats from AW10 if you ever tried that one, those also fit big and 3 was perfect for me.
     
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  10. wireartists

    wireartists Well-Known Member

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    the recurrent sizing chat hehe,

    well, I can fit sz2-3-4...and I have bought and worn all these. For me it just clicks when is size 3, note that I exclusively wear YYPH with some old y's in the mix (pre06). For those mixing with others labels it might be safer to go for a more regular fit, as Ivwri said loose fit needs supporting garments that fit the same.

    I don't get how on earth asobu can fit a sz 2, I mean, it feels short on me and he's way taller than I am. Sometimes I get puzzled with sa's...I've never been told I should wear other than sz 3 in Paris though.

    Good to know about the slit coat, that look was my favourite from day one. I'll probably buy the hakamas in europe if they are still available in my size. Super happy with my more skirt like hakamas...but I want a second pair! The coat might be good for me in sz 3 if it fits like aw10 raw hem...I remember It was perfect for me as well ( asobu also felt great, proof that the line is about how you feel when wearing the clothing ...no sizing dictatorship!) I do wear some sleeves that are way too long and almost cover my hands...
     
  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yeah, that coat is really great looking!

    Speaking of those hakamas, I know you're not planning on buying much that is not wool/gabardine, but aren't the ones in L32 the same cut just in a different fabric? Those are due out in Japan in May. I am definitely targeting those for sure assuming I can't find the L10 ones in Europe as well.

    As for confused sa's I remember when I went into H Lorenzo in LA and got told that Yohji did not exist any more and no stores stocked his stuff. I had to argue with the guy until he now asked another SA there who was also not sure. Not sure what that says about Yohji's PR or the knowledge of the SAs in the store :embar:.
     
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  12. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    wire, yeah, 3 would look great on you. I'm not sure if they had 4 at the store so I couldn't compare, but like I said I was a 4 in everything else and I'm sure the 4 in the gabardine coat could work very well for me, too. The SA taller than me wore a size 2 but he was going for a slightly different fit than we do, definitely more fitted. He didn't seem to like when shoulders didn't fit "normal" or whatever. He was a younger guy so he had not been wearing YY for as long as you have (nor me, probably), I guess he just had a different approach to it. I do have one jacket in sz 2, one of the first I bought so before I had a better grasp on the sizing. I would trade it for a 3 but I would never let it go, one of my favorites jackets and just too good. It's also 12 years old so the fit was just bigger in general back then.

    Hehe, sizing does seem to be a recurrent topic in this thread.

    Also I'd love to get my hands on of the the raw seam coats from AW10. He did it in 3 iterations, I'd take any of them but gab and cotton are my first choices. Sigh..!
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2012
  13. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    did anyone here ever get hands on that blue gabardine trousers barneys had up for so long ? it was discounted quite a bit, i kept going back and forth on it, just didn't know if it was too blue. oh well, i'll never know now, but I think it would have made for a smashing spring look !
     
  14. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yeah I also kept going back and fourth on those pants as well. In the end was worried that they would be too blue. Kinda regret it now though. Heh. Was also tempted by the tweed pants on ln-cc for so long. I think they are still there in a 3. Keep wondering what I would wear them with apart from white tops.
     
  15. wireartists

    wireartists Well-Known Member

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    and I wonder why is he working there? I bet that I've made more sales for YYinc than many of its SA's...and I'm not even joking LOL, nothing wrong with going for a more regular fit, but with this line (being so easy to wear really) they end up making it very complex and almost scary with all those contradicting opinions about sizing. I mean, in the runaway and on yohji himself you can tell how it works. Although when he does fitted stuff, IT IS FITTED. And I can say he's pretty good at it. I do have sz3 jackets that are closer to a 46.


    Truth is that most of the stuff in japan is sz3 and I don't see them being over 6feet in general
     
  16. Noctone

    Noctone Senior member

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    PSA: No idea what the selection is going to be like, but Gilt is having a Yohji (main liine and Y's) sale on Monday.
     
  17. Momokun

    Momokun Active Member

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    Ah, is anyone up for proxying the gilt sale? PM me if you can.
     
  18. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Found these images on Bon.se online magazine.

    More dance meets Yohji Yamamoto. This time with Pour Homme Spring 2012 being showcased. Mainly the hakama pants :D

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  19. wireartists

    wireartists Well-Known Member

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  20. GoSurface

    GoSurface Senior member

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    A+ thread.

    Ivwri, I want your buttonless shawl collar coat. Its stunning.
     

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