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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. Hutch0202

    Hutch0202 Member

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  2. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Can anyone help me date yohji from the tags?

    Inside the breast pocket there's a serial number of sorts: M0-J16-012

    It's a cotton jacket of sorts. Three buttons in front, blue/black alternating stripes.

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  3. Superb0bo

    Superb0bo Senior member

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    how should one approach YY sizing, say from ebay? For example, this piece http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yohji-Yam...pt=UK_Men_s_Coats_Jackets&hash=item4d280ea1cd looks very nice to me. Its marked a S but going by the measures, it looks like it would be a long a pretty loose fit on me as well (who usually is an XL in typical brands). Would it work, or would it mess up the whole look? I.e., how faithful should one be to the original look/vision?
     
  4. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I go by measurements, but try to keep in mind that Yohji should be at least a little looser than your typical stuff. ime, sizing bounces around quite a bit from year to year and piece to piece, so sometimes a 3 is just right, but I also have things in size 1 and 2. It's a bit of trial and error to get just the right amount of "oversize" hahah. Your height is also a factor. e.g. I'm pretty short, so a size 3 blazer with a 33" back length is going to look like an overcoat on me. I actually think some of the older runway looks are too big and prefer Yohji stuff from the mid 2000s to now.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    Superbobo is tall AFAIK and he already like a lose fit, I'd say don't go down sizes too much, maybe 1 down from usual. Of course measurements can help because yohji sizing is all over the place. You just have to avoid getting a too short and skinny jacket from someone who makes cool oversized stuff.

    Of course I remember trying on a size 1 jacket and it was just too big on me and not in a good way so YMMV (and greatly so).
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. Superb0bo

    Superb0bo Senior member

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    ^^thanks guys!

    Yea thats exactly what I want to avoid, a short/slim fit with designs that are intended to be oversized. Im around 6´4/195lb, but even then a 25 pit to pit and 35 length is very loose/long for a jacket, so if there are no weird construction details (e.g., very narrow sleeves/high armholes), it should work, but who knows...
     
  7. StevenE

    StevenE Senior member

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    Yohji on ebay is basically size roulette - even the measurements prove unhelpful when the construction means it fits in a way you wouldn't expect or just wouldn't get with other labels. I have threes cut significantly slimmer than ones, and there's one particular size S Y's for Men khaki jacket that's cut just about to size in the shoulder and fucking massive in every other respect.

    I once recieved some S-marked trousers and was surprised to find I could barely fasten (I'm a 28" waist) - which marks the only piece of YY clothing I've ever had to return.

    I'm short-ish (about 170cm) and thin and when it comes to ebay i've just started resigning myself to taking stabs in the dark, so long as it's something I think has a decent chance of being amazing, with the only guideline I follow being that anything above a 3 is obviously not going to work.

    The fun with Yohji tbh is getting something and seeing how it to make it work, in the event it's not out of the bag 100% perfect on you. Sometimes by wearing a chunky knit under, other times just cramming stuff in the pockets and looking like you justdon'tgiveafuck.
    It's all part of why my relationship with the label's not like any other - everything else I have is just clothes and they are what they are. Wearing YYPH can be like a negotiation if not an outright argument.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2014
  8. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Just avoid eBay if possible..... massively overpriced, inaccurate/dishonest descriptions, a gross lack of choice compared to Y! Japan and Rakuten.

    There are good eBay sellers but IMO they are the exceptions instead of the norm.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Harlock66

    Harlock66 Well-Known Member

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    I've picked up a couple great runway items from ebay, usually from a seller who knows how to take many good pictures (the basic online auction rule). It's fun to check to see what old or unique piece pops up. But since discovering Y! Japan...there's no comparison to the selections.

    Somebody just put up that amazing Yohji "Beatles" coat and if it wasn't too oversize at 3 for my 2 frame I'd grab that up (sometimes shoulders can drape too much:[). Or is it only available in 3? I find Size 2 is my sweet spot for Yohji Roulette (good term!) as I'm 5'7, and my waist fluctuates between 32-34.

    And do any of the YY experts here know anything about his Godzilla line from 2001? Or Cyborg 009 series?
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2014
  10. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    And yet with buyer protection you'd get your money back if someone tried to pull a fast one.
     
  11. Ulf-S

    Ulf-S Well-Known Member

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    The thing that annoys me is sellers that lie about the condition, and this seems common on ebay. I've bought a few items that were supposedly new and never worn (old stock, basically) but were definitely worn. Gently worn and dry cleaned, in excellent condition, but far from pristine. I don't feel cheated out of money, but I get disappointed by people's lack of integrity.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. syed

    syed Well-Known Member

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    A few photographs from Yamamoto & Yohji for people who have yet to be able to flick through a copy. Definitely recommend buying it - remarkably comprehensive, covering everything from licensing projects, to hair and make up.
     
    6 people like this.
  13. syed

    syed Well-Known Member

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    6 people like this.
  14. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    awesome stuff @syed thanks for the sneak peak will deff try to get my hands on one. there's also a blurb about it on SZ Mag site.

    @Superb0bo i wouldn't size down , you sound like a size 5 (so M or L in pre-2000s) from your height which i believe is the most important factor. otherwise it sort of defeats the purpose of getting yohji...

    and ebay is terrible i never use it anymore, prices are way too high stock is so limited. in my experience yohji sellers seem to be much more honest in jp, even exaggerating the used nature when it's often near-new tags included

    speaking of priced way too high...at barneys i tried on aw14 snake sweater, so loose so soft so cozy. I don't have $1140 for a sweater.

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    Last edited: Nov 25, 2014
    4 people like this.
  15. Harlock66

    Harlock66 Well-Known Member

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    I've seen that cool sweater online for about the same price. Insane. It should feel like a second snake skin for that price:]

    I'm going to be in New York next month and I'd like to do some actual YY shopping in person. Are the best stores Barney's and Atelier? How big is their selection in general and is it only new or some older items? Thanks for any info.
     
  16. rudo

    rudo Member

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    Atelier is gone and not back yet (as far as I know).

    Physical stores that carry YY in NY are Barneys, Hotoveli, IF, Idol brooklyn, la garconne.
     
  17. Harlock66

    Harlock66 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I keep checking Atelier's site promising to be back in Fall but here we are....
     
  18. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    La Garconne has a very limited stock in their store, just FYI. The store is mostly focused on women's so the men's selection is very small. The other stores have a good amount of stock to browse though.

    Random thought: when I look through collections from the last several seasons I feel like Yohji is more youthful than most of the other stuff out there. Impressive for a guy in his 70s.
     
  19. StevenE

    StevenE Senior member

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    My experience sweaters seem to be the collection items that are mostly not too hard to find at like 80% off new come the tail end of the sales. The snake sweater's probably got a 50-50 shot of ending up on the barneys warehouse store. which often has yohji at 75% off then special deals where you get a further 30-60% off the discounted price.

    Probably not news to anyone here but I've picked up a couple nice things from the BW site at OK prices - stock starts to dwindle but they definitely offer the steepest discount on uniformly new Yohji of anywhere in the US/EU I know of. Few months ago I got that snakeskin-style knit for £80, which aaaaint bad.
     
  20. xeraphim

    xeraphim Senior member

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    30-40% off selected yohji pieces over at hotoveli and ssense if anyone's interested.
     

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