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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Barneys.com has some current season YY in as well. Seems to be all shoes though. Two iterations of the leather ankle boot and the derbies as well. Hopefully, they will actually get some clothing in :lol:. There's also a pair of AW11 wool pants on sale in a size 3 for $399. They are the only online store I have seen with that particular style actually - drop crotch with a cinch at the back.


    Sorry for not responding earlier. The price for the long boxers in look 17 is Y15,750 (or roughly $193) in Japan. I think they are all going for around this price. Not sure whether any of the US/EU/UK stockists are carrying them though.
     
  2. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Well, the Yohji Women's AW12-13 show was really cool imo. Will put up pictures tomorrow or whenever they are available from easier to download from websites, assuming someone doesn't beat me to it.

    Lots of nice cuts and the draping on a lot of the coats looked amazing. Really can't wait to see video of the show. A lot of the show seemed like a very smooth progression from SS12 men's and women's and AW12 men's. Large scarf/capes, napoleon-style lapels, oversized knits, shirts with slits on the shoulders, cropped pants, navy, black and red as a colour scheme...great show.

    Not sure what was going on with the models and the poles in the venue. Looked pretty odd to me, but I guess the video will show more of that and put it into context.

    I really liked the napoleon-style coat with the large hood. On a first pass, it's my favourite piece of clothing from the show :nodding:.

    Anyway, if anyone can put up pics before they show up on vogue.co.uk or style.com would be much obliged :inlove:
     
  3. Snoopy

    Snoopy Senior member

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    Thanks for the reply. $193 ouch! lol

    :colgate:
     
  4. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    x-post, first impression:

    This is glorious. Gut reaction says this is the best women's he's done since... mid-00's? I don't know. Need to gather my thoughts and see it in motion first, but inital impressions are very good, and I haven't been excited about his women's collections for quite some time now (excl the last one which I really liked as well).I'd say, definitely best since the reconstruction. The knitted stuff is gorgeous and reminds me of y's 03 I guess. I love the soft asymmetry he's done throughout the collection, just a slight shift in balance. Sleeves, or the reinterpretation of them, seem to be a focus point and are stunning pretty much throughout the whole thing. The cuts are just so good, as are the massive coats. The fabrics looks great and from what can be glimpsed here and on NF the backs are breathtaking.

    The khaki and orange gave me some y's aw04 vibes, I see a little ss05, a pinch of aw04, and the red + black was the best thing he did with aw09 (iirc, I need to look through that one again).
     
  5. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Sipang already posted the collection in the runway thread but I think they should be here as well

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    FULL COLLECTION:


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    Back shots:

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  6. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Thanks for posting the images asobu.

    Good stuff. I am still getting my head around Yohji's women's collections, but this one really stands out to me in terms of its vision and shapes. Like I said earlier, the napoleon coat is really great and in addition to that I love what he did with the accordion-pleated dress and a lot of the oversized knits. Some slung over like capes and others just worn to cover the body.

    The use of this particular shade of red, platform heels and the way some of the dresses reveal skin makes me think he is flirting with more overtly sexy and aggressive looks for women, something that I think traditionally he has avoided doing so far (beyond his fascination with ladies' backs). This is really great to see, because it shows that he has definitely found renewed vigor for designing clothing. He has had three or four really good seasons in a row and looks like he is just getting started all over again :slayer:

    Can't wait to see this collection in motion.
     
  7. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Yeah, I bet this looks amazing in motion so hopefully a video will surface any time now. I still don't really feel the very last part of the show judging from the pics (except for the excellent closing look) but at least he seems to have some fun with it. It does seem like it's closing in on the kabukicho women that he definitely didn't reference before, perhaps he's just broadening his palette or making at least a few things that will be easier to sell, but either way is more than fine by me.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2012
  8. Lionheart Biker

    Lionheart Biker Senior member

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    Not the best video to view the whole collection but also not so bad to see all the looks in motion.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    Maintenance bump



    Just a couple more old ads, hopefully not a repost






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    2 people like this.
  10. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Thanks for posting man. Really looked good in motion. Those outfits at the end and the corset-style dress (?) are still not doing anything positive for me, but the direction he seemed to be going in is an interesting one and looks like a change of pace/inspiration for Yohji after all these years. The music also helped cement what I thought were the inspirations for this, what with the sultry lighting, make up and use of red, heh.
    Not a repost at all and thanks for the maintenance bump :fonz:. Been a bit busy and distracted lately so just come on SF to lurk. I should be attending a fashion week here in Lagos, so looking forward to wearing the wide hakamas out for that, will take pics :nodding:
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Some good finds off of SZ for those who don't visit the site. Size 3 and below -

    Size 3 YYPH blazer over on SZ.

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    Size 2 Y's knit on SZ as well

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    Y's tapered wool pants

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    And finally, asobu also has a sale thread on SZ with some pretty nice stuff up for sale (apart from the last item which you should totally not look at 'cos it's pretty bad :D)

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  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    And finally, Yohji x Dr. Marten collab boots from AW07-08 collection. For those with big feet (size US11, UK10). So tempted by these, but the hassle of purchasing from eBay is giving me second thoughts, also very reluctant to pick up used shoes in general.

    I am also suspicious of the amount of wear on the sole when seen from the rear, might just be the angle of the photo though as the shot of the sole itself seems fine.

    Anyway -

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    Link
     
  13. PregnantBob

    PregnantBob Senior member

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    I need to find more winter stuff in size 2

    the AW07-08 is one of my favourites as it's the easiest to wear imo. The coat I was going to buy was from that collection, but DAMN YOU EBAY SELLERS WHO HAVE IT FOR SALE ELSEWHERE WITHOUT SAYING SO!!!!!!!

    I neeeeed a coat
     
  14. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Still haven't seen any winter coats in a size 2 PregnantBob :(. Forward does have the khaki brown jacket from AW11 with the leather lapel on REALLY deep sale though (although that's in a size 1 unfortunately. It might work for a typical size 2 though as I believe that jacket came in sizes 1, 3 and 5 only. Not 100% sure though).

    On a related note, Forward has also put up a preview of their Yohji buy for this season. They seem to be expecting all the pieces in a week's time or so. Some pretty good buys actually with two pairs of shoes, pants, shirts and coats. The pricing is not bad as well (as long as one considers $499 not bad for a shirt :lol:). What's weird is that the only sizes they seem to have are 2 & 3 with the possibility to special order larger and smaller sizes of the various items. It might just be temporary and their actual stock will be changed once they get the items in, but it may also be possible they are hedging their bets on their purchases.
     
  15. PregnantBob

    PregnantBob Senior member

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    I was just coming on here to post about the forward forward refresh.

    I think they're hedging their bets a little because they've gone through a new management system now with their online shop and YYPH's AW11 was heavily discounted last time around.

    Thank you for looking out for me haha, I'll find something someday... even if i have to wait for AW12 :D

    That jacket with the red leather details would fit me well, if the size 1 measurements are anything to go by... but I just don't like it at all.

    Size 3 for a coat is fine too. I'm literally going on every night and checking the usual suspects as well as the links posted in this thread.

    Kinda sad that I can't find the pieces I like from SS12 in any of the online stores.
     
  16. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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  17. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    What pieces from SS12 are you looking for exactly? You should get in touch with Drew and see if he can you help you check whether they are still available in Japan. I will PM you the pricelist and codes to make it more convenient for you :). You can also try speaking to Eastern Market as I know they had a pretty solid Yohji buy so far with size 2s left in some of the pieces they got in.


    Yeah I really like those as well and LN-CC got them in too so one has options if they sell out elsewhere. Definitely on my list to pick up. The fleecy fabric sounds pretty nice and comfy too. I am personally trying to pick up a few more fitted pants to mix things up in my wardrobe. Would like to get mainly cropped pants though not super-stacking jeans like all the stuff Julius etc. put out.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2012
  18. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    1 person likes this.
  19. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    The YY phagocytizing of sw&d, I was there...
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Nouveau Pauvre

    Nouveau Pauvre Senior member

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    Who you calling a phago!?!?!?!

    Anyway Y-3 is really hit or miss for me but I just picked up a trench I'm absolutely in love. Will post pictures soon.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2012

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