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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    @Steven, a 80s Yohji blazer will have massive shoulders with the shoulder pads actually hanging " off " the shoulders almost completely. If you watch the V&A Yohji video The Poet of black ( or something like that title-wise ) it showed a AW84 YYPH catwalk, that's the kind of silhouette he created back then. The shoulders should complement the huge chest as well to give you that grand dad look. I won't change the shoulders if it's my jacket :)

    #Authenticity
     
  2. StevenE

    StevenE Senior member

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    I'm watching the video now, I can see what you mean. I embrace the padding!

    I'll have a better idea, of course, once I have it in my hands. Should be soon. Sometimes it takes a while to get used to a new silhouette.
     
  3. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    word of advice. never buy anything from 80s. =) worst decade for fashion and those shoulder pads will be impossible to wear, unless you are BIG and TALL.
     
  4. StevenE

    StevenE Senior member

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    Worst comes to worst, I'll jut gorge myself til I'm twice the size and able to fill it out more.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    sounds like good plan.
     
  6. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    @Steven If you like it, wear it. If you don't like it then don't wear it. There's no right or wrong. Every era has its place in history. My advice:- never say never and the world will be so boring if we all think the same.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Howell31

    Howell31 Senior member

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    I work sundays and mondays at IF in soho and we've had SS14 for about two weeks now :)

    some great stuff for sure. highlights include double layer, skirted shorts that fasten with little a buckle. i'd be surprised if stores like ln-cc dont pick those up too. thanks to rick owens it's a look that's kind of in atm. also a really incredible ramie blend double breasted jacket with the lining peeking out from the sleeves. matching trousers with elastic waist and silk tuxedo stripe inserts. kind of difficult to describe in words. see it to believe it ;)
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2014
  8. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    another budget fit
    Y-3 straw hat
    Ys melton wool blazer
    uniqlo tee
    coming soon wool-linen pants
    converse

    - - -

    inspirational Yohji quote for the week for all you creatives:
    "Start copying what you love. Copy copy copy copy.
    At the end of the copy, you will find yourself."
     
    9 people like this.
  9. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    you should post photos of the items (if you're allowed to) :)

    did you guys receive this shirt ?
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  10. TroubIe

    TroubIe Active Member

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    I had a Comme des Garcons Homme Plus Blazer from 1991 that had a 50cm shoulder width with alot of padding.
    It was just unwearable, impossible to make look good no matter how much I played with proportions.
    I decided to take out the shoulder padding, I just took a seam ripper to the inner lining of the jacket and just cut my way through until i found the pads, then cut them out. I didn't bother sewing up the lining or the inner parts either. I thought this would create a drop shoulder effect, but I guess the jacket is built with the pads in mind, so all it did was make it droop a bit but it still held its huge frame / shape.
     
  11. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    ^^^ embrace the geometries :)

    this suit has massive shoulders creating a block silhouette , which i think works fine
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014
    4 people like this.
  12. TroubIe

    TroubIe Active Member

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    @shah that looks great on you, unfortunately my jacket made me look like something out of the Thom Browne FW12 collection lol

    Received 2 jackets and 2 pants recently, and I think I finally understand sizing for tops. As for bottoms... I'm still on my quest as every single Yohji bottom I have handled (4) fits very awkwardly...

    + Y's For Men Cotton Jacket, Size 2 with fitted shoulders
    + Y's (Women's, thought it was Men's but I was wrong) Cotton Pants I posted earlier

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    + Y's Red Label Wool Gabardine Setup, Size 3

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And another pair of Cotton sweats in size 3 that I didn't get a photo of.
    The Jackets really fit me well, but the bottoms just simply do not give enough of a wide silhouette to support the top. When I am standing at ease / comfortably, the pants "bunch" forwards and create a really ugly curved silhouette (You can kind of see it in the right leg of the last picture) that looks like there is a loose, "invisible" pleat running down the centre, if that makes sense - kind of like this :

    [​IMG]

    It looks fine when I have my hands in my pockets to hold the shape, but obviously I'd like it to look the same way when I'm just standing with my hands at my sides. Cuffing them helps a bit too but in the case of thicker fabrics it can create a really heavy looking "block" like in the 2nd pic which doesn't look too great. I haven't really seen this with anyone else's fits and I'm just wondering if that happens with anyone else?
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014
    3 people like this.
  13. StevenE

    StevenE Senior member

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    I'm browsing the new season Y-3 on their website - and I'm somewhat stunned at the amount trainers seem to have gone up. The boxing trainers are coming in at £399 now, up from about £200 last season. I got sala hi-tops last season on sale at Hervia, marked down from £195 - this season's model is listed at £427. I'm a little amazed. I recall reading that Peter Saville was involved in the new collection. I'm assuming that could be a reason for the increase?

    I'll make a point of checking out the store next time in London to see if there's an obvious leap in quality in the handling. They must think they're on to something.

    The full collection isn't up yet, but from the looks of things they've made a particular push towards futuristic fabrics across the whole line. There's a £1,500 hoody up for grabs. £900 t-shirt. It's boring to complain about the price but this season is shaping up to be something else. There's surely, surely, surely a risk of pricing themselves out the market? I'm leaning towards saying that there's been a mistake and they've put up the wrong prices.

    EDIT - I'm thinking the prices must be wrong. I switched over to the US site and the same items are listed far, far lower in dollars. Cuffed pants for £300 are listed $220 in the US, etc, etc. I'm not quite sure how they appear to have bungled the listing quite so badly - either that or their EU pricing strategy is mad.

    EDIT: Y-3's twitter feed suggests it's being looked at and fixed. I'm genuinely at a loss as to how they could have made a mistake with the pricing of almost every item.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2014
  14. Zephos

    Zephos New Member

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    Hi all,

    I've read most of the thread, but I just want to be clear about a specific sizing concern: as a 29Wx30L, how much of a classic Yohji silhouette should I expect from a pair of Y's wool blend trousers, size 2, 33" waist, 35" inseam, 7.25" hem?
     
  15. StevenE

    StevenE Senior member

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    Jan 6, 2013
    Suit came. I like it, definitely was worth the punt.

    It is big for a M, both the suit and the trousers are wearable separately but together is a no. I assumed before they got here that the jacket would be fine and was less bothered about the trousers. As it is, the trousers seem quite easy to wear (especially thanks to the adjustable waist buttons, taking a 34" down to a 32"-ih waist), the jacket I like, but Dantebykiko was right in suggesting that, compared to later Yohji lines, it's potentially unforgiving on people who aren't big and tall, and I'm neither. It's certainly much, much larger than most of my other M and size 3 jackets, but it's more a matter of getting proportions right.

    I think I'm going to let it sit for a while and see if it works its way into my wardrobe, might work best thrown over things, a bit like a coat. If not I can always pass it on.

    If I find a way I like to wear it I'll post a fit.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2014
  16. Land Nezumi

    Land Nezumi New Member

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    1
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    Feb 13, 2014
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2014
  17. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Mar 26, 2012
    @Steven just wear the jacket as a short coat as a layering piece. As regarding taking shoulder pads out, I've done it 4 times ( 3 YYPH and 1 80s Byblos blazers ) and all turned out fine. Didn't completely solve the problems ( 3 pieces to make cuffs finish longer on hands & 1 to release armhole space ) but make them wearable. One YYPH SS09 runway lace insert blazer I have even has in-situ removable shoulder pads so the pads can ( not always ) change the silhouette.
     
  18. goatamous

    goatamous Senior member

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    Aug 1, 2010
    Location:
    Toronto
    All

    I know next to nothing about Yohji, and I'm wondering if somebody can help me identify this Blazer.
    I warn you in advance, the pictures are terrible

    It's a long blazer, wool / silk, and seems to have this built in aesthetic that resembles an untied bowtie


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    these are the pics that were sent to me. I hope that somebody is able to ID a long black blazer based on the tie in front

    thanks
     
  19. surver

    surver Well-Known Member

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    May 19, 2010
    haha, just came across this pic taken in Hong Kong, 1941 by Harrison Forman... seems very in line with the AW14 collection ;P

    [​IMG]
     
  20. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    544
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    Apr 12, 2012
    Location:
    London
    no
     
    2 people like this.

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