Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Alright, I'll continue with some of the archive effort. Don't have a good runway story this time around though, hehe



    YYPH SPRING-SUMMER 2002

    ""Paris, Jun 30, 2001/ FWD/ --- Few things underlined fashion's current obsession with denim as much as the Yohji Yamamoto men's collection Saturday in Paris.

    After a Milan season crammed with ripped, embroidered and paint-splattered denim, Yamamoto took a new angle by using denim of distinctive textures in Edwardian-style outfits for groovy gentlemen, with frock coats and
    double- breasted redingotes.

    But the big idea of the collection was an homage to the legendary Japanese director Yasujiro Ozu, as Yohji featured '50s movie poster images of beautiful Asian film stars on a score of outfits.

    Several of these looks were executed with virtuosity, like a sensational double-layer fine semi-transparent mesh shirt with the movie star's face on the inside.

    A draped wool jacket whose crest was an image of a girl laying on the grass reading a magazine, a chambray suit with an acid-dyed column, and some intriguing jackets with one side double-breasted and the other side single, underlined the master's technical skill.

    While legendary among fashion cognoscenti, Yohji, the designer's designer, has never become as internationally famous as some lesser talents.

    Ironically Yohji's skill has, in a way, prevented him from becoming more widely known. The fact is that Yamamoto's ideas are so technically complicated, they are hard to copy."

    Godfrey Deeny, fashionwindows

    So there are two key themes, the actress embroidery/prints and the denim variation. I love a lot of this, I'm particulary fond of the first part with the smaller embroidery which is a glorious re-interpretation of the dog embroidery from SS90, down to some of the cuts (e.g. the long 2 btn jacket), and some of the double layered mesh ones. I don't wear much denim but I have to say I love some of the cuts and I like what he's done with it here.


    (as always with YY the collection is kind of long so perhaps I shouldn't have have bothered with the whole thing but at least the spoiler makes it easier to read the thread. I hope to god these pics work now, I don't have the patience to do it again)



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    Last edited: Feb 3, 2012


  2. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Pics work and it looks great! Once I get on my laptop will give it a better look. Good stuff.
     


  3. xumatrix

    xumatrix Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, the price in UK is also freaking expensive [​IMG].
    My friend in HK, tells me that the price is lovely there.
    i think the store located in the harbour city mall
     


  4. Artking3

    Artking3 Senior member

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    Spotted Horse is a famous denim distressing company in Japan. They don't actually make their own denim, but denim companies send them their jeans to be aged and distressed by hand. Jeans done by them are very expensive.
     


  5. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks asobu. I like a lot the jacket shapes in that collection. Love this look, I'm going try to replicate it for spring:

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    Last edited: Feb 4, 2012


  6. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Thanks for the info Artking3. So that means that all the earlier collabs between Yohji and Spotted Horse have been YY sourcing their own denim and doing the actual design and cutting process while Spotted Horse gives them special treatments?


    Yeah, it's great, would like to find a shirt like that as well.

    I wonder what it is about the prints that draw me in, really nice though. Definitely keeping an eye out for some of the sheer print shirts now.
     


  7. Guy Burgess

    Guy Burgess Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    From L'Uomo Vogue April 2010. [In the picture: jacket, shirt and pants, Yohji Yamamoto]
     


  8. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Glad you liked it! I actually have that very same jacket, so far my only piece from this collection and it's fantastic. One of my most worn spring pieces. There are silk stripes around the sleeve cuffs and the hem, as well as a white mesh net underneath that is visbile if you roll the sleeves.
     


  9. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    That sounds really cool. Would love to get my hands on that at some point.

    I am currently trying to decide whether or not to pick up the Obi belts from the current collection in a few colours or not. I have actually come around to the way they look, but I am undecided whether or not they will be nothing but a novelty accessory to be worn only with the hakama pants when I am feeling particularly Nihonjin, or whether they will be usable in other outfits. What do you guys think?

    The white belt can be seen here - http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2012MEN-YJIYMOTO/?iphoto=6
     


  10. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Lupe Fiasco talks fashion in an interview with Complex where he says Yohji is his favorite Japanese designer -

    Rest of interview here.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2012


  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Another interview that I don't think has been posted -

    Yamamoto: 30 Years at the Cutting Edge by Tamsin Blanchard

    Click
     


  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    - Haidee Findlay-Levin on the Yohji retrospective at the V&A last year.

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  13. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    I would have included this jacket

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    and some other items from the SS2012 collection as well (the cubism jackets, some of the jersey shirts), but quite difficult to find clear back shots of them anywhere. Love the diagonal slits at the back of this and the long vent at the back. A definite buy for me for those details alone.
     


  14. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Some of my favorites from women's (plus a few from ph):


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    more


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    Last edited: Feb 7, 2012


  15. Caveat

    Caveat Senior member

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    Wow, gorgeous stuff.
     


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