Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    ^I compared the prices of a few pieces in Paris to the japanese lists you managed to get hold of (amazing and massively useful, btw, thanks a lot! :slayer: ) and the difference seem to be 30% (pink striped hakamas) to 50% (silk jacket, lo-cut sneakers) more expensive in Paris. I'm guessing the UK pricing is similar.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012


  2. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    yeah, from what I've read and from what you just told us, this is the case. The hakamas seem to be the most popular and talked about in Japan and likely the ones to sell out first. The shirt jacket in the first look seem to be a close second though so if you guys want one then you might possibly need to get on that soon, that would be one of my first choices too if I could buy anything at retail atm. I'm thinking some of the cubism jackets might be a sleeper hit as well.
     


  3. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    tbh I was pretty floored when they came back out with the xerox of the shop list, as that's something I've never gotten from any store, as good of a customer I've been at some of them. I told them of ivwri's planned purchases from the book for the season and they were very accommodating and more than helpful.
     


  4. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    lol, yeah I was pretty floored as well when I got to see them and remember thinking "how did he manage to do that..?". I - and I'm sure many of these guys - will refer back to this list throughout the season and probably afterwards as well. Release dates and pricing is obviously very useful stuff to know, hopefully you can pull it off again next season.

    On that sidenote I have always found the YY SAs in, especially, Isetan and Aoyama flagship to be extremely helpful and easy to deal with.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012


  5. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Kinda late, but just wanted to chime in and say impolyt_one's been excellent to work with so far.

    Can't wait to get my stuff. Definitely going to make my trip to the Rue Cambon store later this year a lot less expensive :lol:.
     




  6. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    ^I'm wondering about this... it's weird, he's been putting out denim stuff for pretty much every collection - even if not part of the runway presentation - since at least 2002 and, afaik, always done in collaboration with Spotted Horse, and as far as I know they still do the mainline stuff, or at least did up until SS11. Of course that doesn't stop a separate collab but I wonder if this is an A.A.R./Durban thing -- in name only?

    edit: I'm also wondering what motivated YY Inc to make a business move like this? Why a denim collab in particular, and with Edwin? I can't imagine they share a significant customer base, now or in the future. Same with this s'yte project, or the (now defunt?) Coming Soon which didn't seem to amount to anything really, while at the same time discontinuing Y's for Men which had at least part of that street/youthful/slimmer vibe - that at least the two latter seem to strive for - and at the same being based on a fucking great legacy to build on, with some spectacular collections up until not that long ago.

    edit2: obviously, doing something like s'yte or edwin collabs is a lot less expensive than keeping a line like YFM running but still...
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012


  7. brad-t

    brad-t Bae Blade

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    edwin is a pretty well known brand in japan afaik

    i don't see how it's any weirder than collaborating with adidas
     


  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Men's fashion must still be a bit rough. It's telling that they shut down Y's for men and left Y's for women intact, all comes down to profit in the end. Sad though.

    It's possible the new money men felt that Y's had too much overlap with YYPH and a lot of legacy brand cache that wouldn't work with the younger Japanese crowd it seems they are trying to make YY inc relevant with. Keeping the name and repurposing it might also have pissed off/confused the existing customer base as well. The two new projects seem low maintenance and a good way of making cash - the s'yte stuff seems to be selling out at a reasonable clip at least.

    How popular is Spotted Horse in Japan compared to Edwin? I had heard of Edwin before, but not Spotted Horse (primarily because of their collabo with a videogame :eek:)

    Not a fan of what I have seen so far anyway, but let's see where it goes. Worst case scenario, Edwin makes some nice raw denim and YY makes some money out of it. Best case scenario, it becomes a little bit more collaborative and a talented designer from YY inc adds a typical Yohji touch and makes it a little more interesting from a 'fashion' perspective.
     


  9. Donut

    Donut Senior member

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    Kind of late with the praise but this thread is fucking awesome. You're the best ivwri :slayer:
     


  10. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Glad you like! :fistbump:

    Glad so many people (more than I expected anyhow!) are happy with and contributing good stuff to the thread. Hopefully we won't end up descending into sales/sizing/where2kop questions and remembering the glory days while people gossip about us on RFT :D.
     


  11. Guy Burgess

    Guy Burgess Senior member

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    i'll happily block people if it does. If we make a pact not to quote them then it it'll be fine! ha
     


  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Consider pact made.

    Now to figure out how to collect/verify blood signatures...
     


  13. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Yeah, I'd dare to say that Edwin is definitely popular in Japan but I can't see the audience they're trying to reach with this move. Edwin is mostly popular in Japan and over there YY is still very much known (if in name only) among both young and old, even if it's not in 'vogue' and not selling to the larger audience. I can't see what attraction this besides selling some jeans and getting half of the profit (or whatever), can't see how it would help attract anyone really to the mainbrands. It's not Levis (which is hugely popular in Japan, and the rest of the world). I wouldn't say it's on the same level as doing a big collab with Adidas, which is a completely different kind of brand, much much more well known internationally and has actually been innovative in stuff they've undertaken. Yohji has mentioned from long ago how Adidas have inspired him and sure some it might be sales talk but he's always been inspired by old second hand stuff and heritage things as well, so it's not completely unbelivable. Remeber that he appropriated the Adidas stuff into his own mainline back in 2001 and 2002, into the runway shows, as a clear fashion move, before Y-3 was conceived (though not necessarily before the concept had been drawn out).

    edit: maybe weird was the wrong word to use, but I'm still a bit puzzled. Anwyay, will be interesting to see how this is received and if it's noted to any extent at all in Japan. Doing collabs like this is at least better than the coming soon mess.



    Yeah, Y's for Men perhaps got lost a bit at the end of the 00's and imo it had been consistently dropping in design (and quality from what I've heard, though ss08 still hade quite good standard imo), and SS10 YYPH definitely felt like an inclusion of Y's for Men but I think we can all assume that this season was a studio team project without much input from the man himself. After the restructuring I guess they felt Y's for Men was a too heavy burden to carry financially, but interestingly enough it hasn't translated into the mainline, I can see no trace of Y's for Men in YYPH after ss10, where the mainline rather has become more slightly more daring perhaps, or at least solidly stays in YYPH (+archive) capm. I'm sort of glad to hear s'yte is selling though, perhaps it's a good outlet for some guys in the studio and makes a quick buck -- I can't say I like much of what I've seen though.

    Spotted Horse is probably somewhat popular/known in Japan, though definitely not on the same level as Edwin but at a much much higher standard of produciton than Edwin, which is obvious at least in the the collabs with Yohji. I don't think he's going to switch Spotted Horse out for the mainlines, unless they wanted out, the denim has actually been quite popular in Japan and they always do good and interesting stuff. I really really hope they stay on, and I'd venture to guess that the majority of the current customer would want this as well.

    In this spirit, I should post pics from the denim/ozu collection which was all done in collaboration with Spotted Horse. I thought about doing so before but I wasn't sure if enough people actually were interested in the archive collections but more in the recent stuff


    edit: also lol at the prospect of this turning into the alden thread, it would indeed be horrible but fortunately there is not enough mass appeal or US stockists for this to happen :D
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2012


  14. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Will respond better once I get to my laptop (android keyboard sucks sooooo much :(). Please post the pics though, definitely interested!
     


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