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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Valter, is that waistcoat from any season in particular? Or is it one of the Japan exclusive "Yohji" items? Shame it didn't work out, looks pretty cool.

    David, once I am ready to pick it up, be sure I will be coming to you for advice on sizing :). What is your impression of the balloon blazer as well? I know it is one of your target items.
     
  2. valter

    valter Senior member

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    Tag would indicate it's AW98. It is one of the red labeled items (thus inspired by Yohji's own wardrobe).
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2013
  3. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Like I said sz 4 or above for you, I will post another fit picture of that piece in due course to show ya.

    That Look 12 balloon blazer is a gem, esp in wool gab ( joining the Wire.Artist brigade here lol ) and in black. It will complete my SS13 Quest. I still struggle to understand how that Side Cord Parka techno so-and-so retails more than this Look 12 according to Ikkon. To see the cut of Look 12, check out the orange blazer on the Runway, it's the same piece in different fabric.
     
  4. rudo

    rudo Member

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    @ivwri I tried those at atelier when they arrived and yes they were really really good. It looks like it is sold out now too.. I probably have to try my luck in the second hand market. [​IMG] Sorry for the bad work bathroom cellphone pic. This is what i wore today. 00aw jacket (huge thanks to asobu) 02aw garb wide pants 11aw green hooded knit +colomb scarf, guidi bag.
     
  5. StevenE

    StevenE Senior member

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    Is anyone here London-based? I'm after a recommendation for a decent tailor. I have a pair of trousers I'd like to get taken up a bit.
     
  6. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    I'm not but Kiko is,

    You can Google any tailor within your vicinity to shorten your trousers, it's a very basic job. It's altering jacket sleeves that you need to be ultra careful in my view.

    Alternatively you can pop in Conduit Street Yohji and ask its friendly staff ( Angela, Eri, Auturo ) where they send their clents' garments for alteration, surely they will be happy to help you.
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2013
  7. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    On top of my head I remember somone saying that there its really good one in Covent Garden. I've never been to tailor also chopping the hems myself.
     
  8. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Happy Easter guys, but go easy on the eggs. They are bad for your teeth, I have a duty to advise :)

    My mild embroidery affection.

    [​IMG][​IMG]


    [​IMG][​IMG]


    YYPH SS02 Look 36 Embroidery Blazer - posted before, ( HE-J58-100 ) - 100% wool gabardine. Sz 2, silk embroidery, bottom slit 3-D ballooning pockets.

    YYPH AW11 Look 22/38 Pants - ( HP-P22-100 ) the black 100 wool gab iteration in sz 2, they are called many things, high waisted pants, tuck pants, suspender pants...I cheekily call them Cummerbund Pants. Ivwri had a great description of his cotton ones already. These wool ones have so much grace in movement, silhouette is perfect, Balloon top half, tapering at the hems. They feel like wearing a cummerbund with the top section buttoned up, with braces, very dressy. Then wear it opened & folded down + rolled hems to channel the nonchalant vibe, such versatility. Astonishing construction. Grail.

    Y's AW08 Black Crewneck LS Tee with contrast white crewneck stitching ( ME-T01-053 ) - 100% cotton, sz 2.

    CDG H+ Belt, CAUSE SHOES x George Cox 7 eyelet monkey boots in black leather.
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2013
    11 people like this.
  9. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    nice... very nice david. i won those trousers in cotton last night (against rex). i will give them a go and see if i will be satisfy with cotton and not gaba :D but i've got the feeling that i can trust iwvri about the cotton.
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2013
  10. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Thanks Kiko, I think these pants are great in whatever colour & fabric iteration. They will bring something brilliant to the table to suit individual taste.

    You are now Captain of the Anti-Rex Squad :slayer:
     
  11. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    I'm trying to find Iwvri's post with them but I can't :(
     
  12. StevenE

    StevenE Senior member

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    The YYPH AW11 Look 22/38 Pants are incredible. They look amazing.
     
  13. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    I can't find it either.

    Here you go Captain, HD Pics + Info from orphee ( top man ) in SZ for the wool ones. This should help you. Yours is sz 2 as well?


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    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]








    YYPH high-waist buckle trousers (2)

    On offer are a pair of Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme high-waist trousers from AW2011. The 'true' waist has belt loops, while the upper 'high waist' section is open in the back and can be tightened with four small buckle straps. The legs are wide yet tapered, making their true width only perceivable when in motion. Marked a size 2.

    The trousers are rather complicated design-wise, which makes measurements somewhat difficult. Nevertheless, these are fairly accurate:

    Waist measured at the belt loops: 43.5 cm
    Outside leg: 115 cm to the top of the trousers and 100 to the middle of the belt loops
    Inside leg: 73 cm
    Leg opening: 22 cm
    The top part of the waist (the high waist) is expandable with the buckles. At its narrowest, it fits about a European size 46, but it can be expanded to around 50 cm. The split at the back of the high waist part makes the top part almost free-size, and it can also be folded over a belt. The waist at the belt buckle area is not expandable, which is why I give separate measurements for that section.

    The trousers can be worn a couple of different ways: belted with the upper waist section either tight on the torso or casually folded over, or with braces/suspenders (there are buttons inside the waist for that purpose).

    The two rear pockets are a very nice touch: they close with an upward-facing 'flap' and hence look upside-down.

    I am a slim size 46 in trousers, and these fit me with the waist tightened to its narrowest. The legs are wide and have a very Fred-Astaire elegance. Then again, we are talking Yohji here, so they might look equally good with trainers etc. for quite a different mood. They have a very soft fold down the front ('pleat' would just be the wrong word). Tapered at the ankle. Needless to say, they have a great flow; look great in motion.
     
  14. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    cheers for that but i was looking for the fabric description (cotton) :p
     
  15. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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  16. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yeah, K the cotton is very nice. Heavy but still breathable and drapes really well in my opinion. Especially with suspenders, looks really good! Great pick up :).

    Here's a fit of the two items I got recently. Wearing them both today cos it's easier to show that way, hehe. Couldn't post yesterday cos came down with a migraine :(.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    T-shirt is 100% cotton with product code HX-T08-065. Very, very silky cotton. Feels like a blend even. Excellent drape as you can see and slightly sheer due to how thin it is. Perfect for the warm weather. There is very nice ruching at the back of the neck which adds even more visual interest to the top. It is pretty long and has an elastic hem at the bottom. I guess it could be worn pulled all the way down, but it seems more natural to have it up and then twist the excess fabric to create more ripples down the torso and at the back.

    Cropped pants are100% Rayon with product code HX-P09-202-2. Smooth rayon fabric, also with amazing drape and they feel excellent against the skin, especially in motion. The sarouel drop crotch does not hinder my movement in any way whatsoever either so it makes these very tempting to wear a lot, hehe.

    There are matching rayon drawstrings at the waist and the bottom of each leg and it can also be worn with a belt as it also has belt loops. The rayon fabric means that in my opinion it can be dressed up and dressed down pretty easily, especially if paired with the right shoes. Not formal enough to be worn for some red carpet event (or maybe it can be!), but definitely doable for a party and stuff like that. Four pockets, two by the sides and two at the back, not as deep as I am used to from Yohji, but I am sure that probably had something to do with keeping the shape of the pants when the pockets are stuffed and the fabric. I just noticed that ln-cc has the same pants but in a cotton jersey iteration while La Garconne has them also in an indigo batik print. Both look pretty cool, although I really don't like the styling on ln-cc with the hems left free. I feel these pants look best with the drawstrings pulled tight on the legs, but I guess your mileage may vary.
     
    14 people like this.
  17. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    Looks fantastic ! Both from atelier you said? I have been feeling let down by lncc styling pics, as you said looks a bit funny left wide open and look frumpy on the model when pulled tight. This is a breath of fresh air hehe

    Also are those marsell??
     
  18. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    David I really like that inverted egg silhouette you created...especially in time for Easter so I win the egg hunt lol
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yup, both from Atelier. Pants are definitely sold out like Rudo mentioned, but not sure about the tshirt since it is not listed on the site. Might be worth shooting them an email if you are interested.

    With regards to ln-cc, I feel their penchant for sizing down on their regular model really doesn't work at all with Yohji (it could be argued it doesn't work with most brands on there either, lol), both due to the model's proportions and also because, well, the clothing is just not meant to be worn that way. Meh.

    Yup, shoes are Marsell (I think my first pair of Marsell ever actually :happy:)
     
  20. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    Lncc's styling of Yohji is really not ideal. Too bad those pants are sold out at atelier. Was thinking of passing by there today. They look great, by the way.
     

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