Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[altemp]

I went to the Y-3 store in shibuya today (or one of them) and I was really not expecting the prices I saw. Is Y-3 stuff generally up there with mainline Yohji? Even some of the pants were breaking 100,000 yenyen definitely didn't feel like it was worth it. The actual Yohji mainline stuff feels much better in hand than what I was seeing.

 

[asobu]

Women's coat, AW92

"Yamamoto enjoys inserting adjustable straps into the sleeves, neckline, and even body of many of his garments. Often placed conveniently to draw in expanses of widely cut fabric, these straps manipulate the dimensionality of the piece and reference early methods of clothes binding. This coat, with its demure turned-down collar and large circular cut, recalls the simple shapes of 1960s Western-tailored garments. The inherently graceful shape is offset by buckled straps at wrist and collar, themselves comparable to the bodice or jodhpur closures in historic sport or traveling costume.

Yamamoto enlivens the black canvas of this somber black felted wool with reflective brass rectangles and abstract strokes of gilded paint. Though ornamentation of the collar and center front bodice is traditionally found in the brocaded silks of the Japanese kimono and its obi and the silk floss embroidery of various Chinese cheongsam designs, Yamamoto here seems to be referencing ideologies of twentieth-century Western art. The broken application of these gilded shapes creates a Cubist planar composition, which, conflated with the modular shape, fosters a succinct aesthetic. The addition of bas-relief brass plates juxtaposed with flat paint provides a Surrealist element, enhanced by a morbid cracked-mirror allusion used repeatedly by Salvador Dalí and manipulated by Elsa Schiaparelli in a late 1930s evening jacket design."

 

[Platypus]

Not much to add, but I had a chance to see the first shipment of SS12 in Paris. You can definitely see the East (bottoms) and West (Tops) theme. Not convinced about some of the prints though.

Got to try on some of the pleated hakama pants. So dope. They're definitely at the top of my skirt-esque list (since they only come OS / size 3 apparently and I'm an XS / 44 they appeared more skirt-like than the runway on me, but in movement you can still tell they are pants).

 

[asobu]

Thanks for sharing! What did you think of the fabrics? I think you're the first one here to have actually seen it in person so we're all very curious to hear what you thought, hehe. Did you try on any jackets or shirts?

 

[wogbog]

I just watched the A/W 2012/13 show and it made me want a cape and a broken arm.

 

[Ivwri]



Thanks for sharing! What did you think of the fabrics? I think you're the first one here to have actually seen it in person so we're all very curious to hear what you thought, hehe. Did you try on any jackets or shirts?

+1

Would definitely be interested as well.

I was hoping I could size up in the gab version of the hakama pants (look 37) as I wanted a more pronounced skirt effect so a bit bummed out to hear they are OS only.

 

[Parker]

Love this photo of Yohji. Hope I look this cool when I'm his age.

 

[Platypus]



What did you think of the fabrics?Did you try on any jackets or shirts?

I did not try any tops other than this cardigan in black. The store did not have any size 1 and, in general at least, any other size is too big on me (even accounting for the Yohji fit). I focused on the pants since they were what interested me most from the collection and the store had a variety of styles.

As for fabrics, a lot of pieces seem to be in a quite crisp cotton such as this jacket I saw. There were some prints (such as the small flower print and a geometric print) that I was not convinced by. Other than that, the items they had were mostly black and white so I can't comment on the colors much other than the drab green which was nice. Oh, and there was a pair of shoes in an over-dyed blue.

I was hoping I could size up in the gab version of the hakama pants (look 37) as I wanted a more pronounced skirt effect so a bit bummed out to hear they are OS only.

The gabardine version of the wide pleated hakama is what I tried on and I think the effect, even on someone bigger, is / would be great. I had to tighten them (the waist is adjustable with buttons) to the tightest setting and even then I would have to belt them. Looks great in movement when you can tell it is a pant, but it is still really dramatic. Not quite for me (and too expensive for something I'd wear so little), but I found myself justifying them after a while. There are numerous versions, including pleated pants that mimic the effect, the hakamas, over-pants, and even a real skirt I think. The cotton version may actually hold the wide shape a bit better (if that is what you are looking for), but I preferred the gabardine version.

 

[Ivwri]

Thanks for the info platypus, much obliged.

Already picked up the hakama pants that you tried on in a 3. Plan on getting another pair that is listed on the price list as "Hakama Pants E" as I think that one has a slightly different cut and looks more skirt-like and is in gabardine. Prefer the way gabardine moves to the cotton (based off what I saw on the runway vid anyway).

Trying to resist the temptation to pick up too many variations of the hakamas including the slimmer ones like those here.

While I'd love to wear the hell out of them, I'm not sure whether they wouldn't make too much of a statement for daily use to be in my regular rotation.

 

[Ivwri]



Love this photo of Yohji. Hope I look this cool when I'm his age.

Spoiler: no show

Always liked this photo. Dressed pretty similarly today as well .

 

[wireartists]



+1
Would definitely be interested as well.
I was hoping I could size up in the gab version of the hakama pants (look 37) as I wanted a more pronounced skirt effect so a bit bummed out to hear they are OS only.

just got the iteration seen on look 37 (wool gaba), waiting for it now, I'll update with some thoughts. I bet they are massive...

the stuff is selling out in japan the first day they hit the floor or even before, i was aiming at look 10's pants actually and I was too late. I shall get a hakama suit (quoted by Platypus), the slimmer hakama type 2 pants are beautiful I'm sure. intrigued by the fabric too...

 

[Ivwri]

Looking forward to seeing some pics once you get yours.

Hope I can still get the oversized shirt from look 1 at this rate.

 

[wireartists]

the hakamas are the hit, The rest will go at the usual pace. I also plan to get that very first shirt, is reversible. I saw a picture somewhere worn by an SA from japan, and it's not that oversized.

 

[Ivwri]



the hakamas are the hit, The rest will go at the usual pace. I also plan to get that very first shirt, is reversible. I saw a picture somewhere worn by an SA from japan, and it's not that oversized.

Ah ok, great. So my problem now are the two hakama pants I want. lol. Ah well, let's see. Any idea when Atelier is going to get their buy?

 

[impolyt_one]



How do the prices compare to US prices? I'll be in NYC in March... but will make a detour to Tokyo if I have incentive

It'd be interesting to know; the SA's in Tokyo told me that prices in the Paris store are 3X the Japanese price.