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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. jwjp

    jwjp Senior member

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    I love the double roll on the lapel :nodding: :nodding: :nodding: very nice
     
  2. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    I think Limi has only done women's clothes under a different Y's sub label and then Limi Feu. Not 100% sure though. The BIS line may be a Japan only diffusion line of some sort. Never seen it before to be honest. Maybe asobu or wire.artist could chime in here?
     
  3. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    flyindarkness, damn that looks fantastic, fits perfect and sleeves hit just right. Really envious, that is a great jacket/suit. :slayer:

    Don't know much about Y's bis or y's bis limi but I'd guess it's probably not worth spending too much time trying to hunt down. It's not a mens label as far as I know.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2012
  4. flyindarkness

    flyindarkness Senior member

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    Thanks guys.
    Those pants are actually some cheap $20 dollar H&M tweedy pants I picked up. It doesn't match the jacket, but it's pleated and somewhat higher rise, so kind of inline with the look I think.

    The weight of the jacket is medium and it's unlined, so it's not super warm, but it feels really nice.

    How does it feel in person? You really do feel like the jacket is new and old at the same time, it's hard to describe, and when you put it on, it moves with you.

    I just don't know when I can actually wear it. lol
     
  5. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    was this already posted ??

    apparently 'twas !
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2012
  6. robinsongreen68

    robinsongreen68 Senior member

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    flyindarkness, that looks fantastic. i would wear that everywhere... i like that you managed to match/mismatch it with the h&m trousers, i'd be curious to know what footwear you went with too?
    asobu thanks for the reply on y's bis, my gf was interested in this stuff as she tried some on in paris, she said it was unisex. you're right though it's hard to track down.
     
  7. Guy Burgess

    Guy Burgess Senior member

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    yes.
     
  8. Nouveau Pauvre

    Nouveau Pauvre Senior member

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    Assuming you want to see prices that look like zipcodes.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Auburn

    Auburn Senior member

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    You Yohji guys are super dangerous, I've been lurking for a while but have finally decided to take the plunge and join the club. I've recently bought two Yohji jackets and of course will be needing some pants. I live in Germany, where Yohji's pieces are pretty tricky to come by (at least in physical retail spaces). I am about 6'2, is a 3 for pants okay, or would a 4 be safer?
     
  10. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    I am also about 6'2 and definitely prefer to go with a size 4, much safer. Also, welcome to the club :slayer: :devil:
     
  11. Auburn

    Auburn Senior member

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    Thanks a lot, this thread has been really inspirational and informative.
     
  12. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    well you used to be 6'4 not sure what happened. i guess you or asobu said that with mainline the biggest difference is the length of a piece rather than the more (normally) constricting measurements like waist or chest etc.

    i've located a boiled wool, trying to negotiate something here. but sz2 with 48" chest makes me wonder who else can fit inside it with me :foo:
     
  13. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Eh? When was I ever 6'4? :confused:

    That was asobu that said that.

    Nothing wrong with leaving room for a significant other or protecting books from the elements...or baguettes...:foo:

    EDIT: What's happening/happened to your unicorn??
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2012
  14. the shah

    the shah Senior member

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    you are 6'4 in the metric conversion, there is always a rounding error here and there.

    it turned out to be a miniature pony rather than unicorn, too cropped for my tastes. it was cdgh , not h+ , which means junya designed, which isn't surprising now since it's short everywhere !!

    are you telling me sipang is an other rather than an extension of myself ??? or is he a book I keep quoting. I know you didn't just call him a baguette...

    48" in massive esp for sz2 isn't it ? that's gonna require some really voluminous pants, fortunately you put me on a good lead with that ebay link. i hope i'm not getting into a battle royal with other SFers or worse those maniac spenders on SZ .... I guess yohji popularity hasn't reached critical mass to make this a real bidding war. I like to think of it as a niche of refined gentlemen rebelling against the constraints of crony capitalism and taking advantage of the ills (ill-fittings) of wall street to wear flowing garb disguised as formalwear. the anti-fit army, no not even army, special ops group of beautiful fabrics and elegant style with a Wagnerian tradition-shattering take (to quote the man himself).

    * * *

    can someone tell me more about this, or someone should buy it. it looks awful here but it's a yoox pic and I suspect it's actually quite fantastic.

    YYPH 72% Rayon, 14% Nylon, 14% Paper Yarn
    [​IMG]

    and of course these are quite interesting but I forgot who makes Y's footwear ...
    [​IMG]

    closeup shows some damage, however.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2012
  15. Caveat

    Caveat Senior member

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    grrr...
     
  16. APK

    APK Senior member

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    Can the Yohji aficionados speak a bit about the knits? Worth the price? Are those usually over-sized, too?

    edit: I guess shah already kind of inquired, but I'm interested in the mainline knits in general.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2012
  17. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    In my own limited experience with mainline knits, I have only seen size 3 pieces and those would fit oversized on someone that's usually a YYPH size 3 or smaller for sure. The ones I saw were not that long in the body (which I prefer) so I don't think they would look as frumpy as one would imagine on someone shorter than myself (unless they were, like, MUCH shorter or something...:embar:). The knits from AW11 were cut quite wide though (still a bit short in the body for me).

    Quality on the ones I handled was fantastic and I guess that is generally reflected in the price :lol:. If that was your main question then I would say purchase with an easy mind. Yohji mainline is known for the quality of its knits :nodding:.

    The one shah posted looks amazing and if I wasn't on a knit-ban I would have picked it up for myself.


    I like to imagine you and sipang as two beings emanating from each other in some complex miskatonic quantum entangled state not necessarily tied to the physical location of the other, but victims to quite sudden and sometimes violent teleportation that brings you both into close proximity. Whether you manifest at each other's location as books or pastry is up to the vagaries of space-time at that exact moment...for my comments on the measurements on that jacket, check PM.

    Your description of the bidding (discussion? debate? sparring?) is going into my sig :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2012
  18. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Hah, yeah, of course chest measurements are something one should be aware of when sizing himself up for the yohji, but the length vs width statement is mainly a little guide for those uninitiated and wanting to join the ranks of those... special ops. Coming from, say, a background of Robert Geller garments, it might be tempting to size down so the chest and shoulders "fit well", the balance might be thrown off since they're in many cases are intended to fit bigger. People are welcome to size their stuff any way they want, I just want for people to embrace the bigness factor. Height can be a good way to do that, if you're skinny but kind of tall, then sizing up might will be worth it.



    Good stuff. As far as I know, that one is not presented in any runway show so pinpointing the collection might be difficult, but I think he did some paper blends for the suspender collection SS07, so it might be an extension of this one:

    [​IMG]




    Yeah, knit sizes varies quite a lot depending on collections so check measurements. Many knits are only made in size 3 and I often find that many are too short in the body for me. When it comes to knits and tees, they're definitely not sized big as many shirts and jackets, but rather often on the slimmer and shorter side comparatively.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2012
  19. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    so how does the yohji footwear fit? :devil:
     
  20. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Pretty consistent. Size 4 is in my experience about US10-10.5, scale a size down and up respectively for size 2 through 6. Someone else in a different size might want to chime in though, I haven't actually handled much of the footwear.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2012

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