Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. fireflygrave

    fireflygrave Senior member

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    Fits please!![/URL]
     


  2. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Top Five Pieces - this is the second one of my three Joint 2s.
    AW09 PH Runway was a true great pre-bankruptcy show, crazy layering, PJs, fleece pants, reversible pieces, robes,silk prints, boxer shorts. In the middle of the show was this relatively subdued but no less mindblowing number:-

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    Alternative views - worn open




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    YYPH AW09 Look 28 Quilted Blazer ( HZ-J57-100 ) the quilted concept had been explored before in AW00 (?) , an all-over quilted piece. The AW09 version was re-worked to devastating effect, a hybrid construction/concept. Classic 100 soft handed wool gab, classic black. Size 2, fully lined, 3 inside pockets, left chest pocket, 2 bottom ones flapped, 3B non-working sleeves. Large horn buttons, 2B closure, notch lapels. long silhouette, lovely dropped shoulders, longish sleeves. It successfully combines classic tailoring and the outdoor quilted concept. But unlike some normal anaemic versions of the quilted from other designers, YY went all out and pushed it to the extreme. Puffed out diamond shaped polyester foamed quilt patterns arranged in 5 rolls below chest pocket, more " cushion " than quilt, construction utterly unique. You feel warm and cocooned without being restrained when buttoned, a sense of protection. The normal blazer silhouette is kept when buttoned. An amazing ballooning effect worn open. An exact opposite to the AW05 Parachute, all the goodness and genius are contained within, no hooks, no studs, no showboating ( in actual fact you are doing just that ).

    YYPH AW09 Look 28 Garment Dyed Zipped Hoodie ( HZ-T56-939 ) 100% soft sweatshirt cotton, oversized, huge hood, single zip, cuffless sleeves. It's actually unequal in length ( back much shorter ). Dark grey with a pre-washed graduated hue to it. Worn with the blazer ( as on Runway ) to show it can do the urban vibe.

    YYPH AW04 Zipper Pants ( HJ-P12-100 ) - posted before, size 3, adjustable waist, zipped hems allow a full-on cropped look.

    Y's x Dr. Martens AW08 Boots ( ME-E53-752 ) size 2.

    CDG H+ Belt.

    To illustrate the versatility of the blazer, it can also be paired with a voluminous bottom half. It shows its less edgy side and works a treat.

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    Alternative views - worn closed

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    YYPH SS12 Look 39 Type 2 Hakama Pants ( HP-P13-010 ) size 3. 100% jersey cotton

    Y's AW06 Suede Hi-tops

    Basic SS Tee

    Edit:- I first saw the Look 28 Quilted in Conduit, couldn't afford the crazy retail. Predictably none left in the AW Sale. Saw it again in Cambon Sale but no size 2! Saw it again on a satellite display at V&A last year and I was obsessed then. It remained elusive until a BNWT size 2 was tracked down on Y!. So pleased with it ( and being a true fan ) that I acquired this to complete the set...


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    Another view:-




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    YYPH AW09 Look 27 Quilted Blazer ( short version ) - ( HZ-J56-100 ) size 2, basically the same cut as the AW08 Look 5 Handstitched. 2B closure, 2 flapped chest + bottom pockets, buttoned shoulder tabs. Larger diamond quilt in 6 rows below chest pockets. Utterly brilliant as well but the Look 28 has a slight edge for my frame imo.

    All in all, the AW09 Quilted " Series " an undisputed Top 2
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2012


  3. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    couple of days ago.

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    + full yohji taekwondo outfit


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    Last edited: Sep 6, 2012


  4. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    love the buckle detail on the shirt.
    collar is cool too.
     


  5. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  6. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    This guy looks so right, so effortless in Yohji. THE Yohji Fit to end all Yohji Fits. HOF [​IMG]


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    Copyright pending :)
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2012


  7. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

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    YYPH SS05
    YYPH SS12
    AnnD SS12

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    also big ups to synth for the suit :D
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  8. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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  9. Benesyed

    Benesyed Senior member

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    My fav fit pic right here
     


  10. Arche

    Arche Senior member

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    A while ago someone posted a link to the Facebook page where Comma sells his Yohji items, but I can't seem to find it. I've found one Facebook page, but it doesn't seemt to be the right one. Does anyone have the address of the one I'm looking for?
     


  11. sshum

    sshum Active Member

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    Thanks for all the great posts. I had a chance to view some of the FW12 pieces here and I can't say that I was impressed. It was too hot to try anything on so these impressions are from examining the pieces on the rack. Here are my brief thoughts and in brackets, I've included the online store where you can find pics as I can't always tell from the look book.


    1. Long blue hooded robe jacket (Hervia) + black blanket jacket with overlock stitching (Just One Eye) - I think it's the material that throws me off. It's soft to the touch but it feels artificial. Thought it would be a wool blend, but I think it's more of a polyester blend? The long blue hooded jacket just seemed to have too many things going on. I like the color of blue they used though. The pockets on the black blanket jacket don't appear to be working pockets.
    2. Burgundy overdyed jeans (Vertice) - nothing special in terms of the fit, finish or style.
    3. Olive Cape (Look 39) - appears to be made from the same blanket material as the blue hooded jacket + black blanket jacket. When I saw it on the runway, it piqued my interest but I think it will be hard to pull off for most. I didn't get a chance to try this one. It was on a mannequin and it just seemed overly complex to take it off. It looks awkward to put on and I was pulling up the different sections of fabric to figure out where all the fasteners might be.
    4. Black Wool Pants with 2 slit pockets above the knee (approx.) - not sure who else is carrying these but these were interesting. Appeared to be baggy up top with a slight taper. The slit pockets along the side of the pant were a nice detail.
    5. Wool Collarless Tab Jacket (Atelier) - interesting piece but doesn't look like it is meant to be worn open. On the rack, the lapels just seemed to hang funny.

    There were some other basic pieces like white shirts, standard black wool pants that seem to come out in every collection.

    A bit late, but I ended up picking up the black Napoleon jacket in jersey cotton with the cubist pattern from Hervia earlier this summer. I think it's the same as the one that another member has here. I can't say that I love it. I guess that is the peril of buying online without the opportunity to handle the piece in person. I wished they would have found a way to make the jacket a little more substantial - the jersey material is so light that it just feels like wearing a heavy t-shirt. And even at sale price, it really is not worth it. It's not like there was a lot of materials used and not a lot of intricate detailing to justify the high price.

    It will be interesting to see how Yohji survives this next wave of economic downturn. The prices are so high that most people won't be able afford his stuff. As for me, I'll continue to scour all the 2nd hand markets to find some select pieces.
     


  12. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    It may have been me or Parker you are talking about. There are many iterations of the Cubism IV Collar Jacket, the one I have is Look 13 ( bought from the Tokyo Store Sale ) in fleece cotton in black, It feels more " substantial " in construction since it's thicker. The one you have is Look 43 ( it did say T-shirt Jacket on the spec sheet ) in jersey cotton so it's lighter as intended. The Cubism patchwork doesn't stand out cos it's black on black but I do like it. I have seen yours ( size 3? ) and tried it twice in the shop ( it's on the mannequin ). Didn't buy it since I prefer size 2 plus one shoulder tab button was dislodged already ( fixed since ). The 2nd time I visited Hervia the SA agreed to offer 80% off retail which was a real bargain. I guess it's meaningless even at 90% off if you don't like it. You can always sell it, surely you won't lose any money on it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2012


  13. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Something simple and comfortable ( and posted briefly before )

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    Stand collar look



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    YYPH SS11 Contrast Panel Blazer ( HO-J18-806 ) 100% cotton, dry hand, thin fabric. Matt black, half body lined in fabric, sleeves in cupro. No shoulder pads, size 3 for a nice boxy fit. 5B closure ( unusual for a short jacket ), big notch lapels, 6th button for a stand collar look, 2B working sleeves, 2 large patch pockets. Left front panel in navy ( not lapel ) for that Yohji twist. The sleeves have a " curved " construction which I've never come across before, making the sleeves appear shorter at the front and follow the arms perfectly. Supremely comfortable.

    YYPH SS09 Drawstring Pants ( HV-P14-031 ) thin 100% cotton, size 3, drawstring waist with belt loops, drawstring hems, 2 front and back patch pockets with fabric 3D extension on front left.

    SS Tee, Y-3 Hejarklack Leather Hi-tops.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2012


  14. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

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    Following up on sshum's comments above, I had the chance to see the current collection in Nagoya. For the most part I was not incredibly impressed, the selection was a bit less than I was expecting. My thoughts--

    - I was not particularly fond of any of the knit pieces, including the knit coats and sweaters. The quality is good of course, but I did not find them to be especially wearable. They are too heavy for the summer and too light for the winter. They did have a layered, long knit cardigan which I believe LN-CC has. The material was very nice, but like the other knitwear I was not a fan of the fit.
    - They had the overdyed jeans like sshum mentions, also stocked at vertice. Nothing too special about the fit, but they had a similar fabric and a wider cut which I liked and ended up buying
    - I really wanted to look at the collarless jackets like atelier had, but they only had one left in a 3. The cut was enormous, much larger than a typical yohji 3 and far too big for me. I think a 2 would have worked, but according to the SA they're completely sold out. A bit disappointing
    - They didn't have too many other blazers around, which I would have liked to see. They just got in a new shipment of the plaid coats, jackets and pants. Quality was nice and they had some interesting details. Prices were definitely cheaper than the non-Japanese stores (the blazer was around 100,000 yen, as opposed to 1,400 pounds on vertice), but still prohibitively expensive in my opinion. I have a similar one from AW10 anyway, and these were not different enough to warrant a purchase
    - They had several iterations of the black wool pants sshum mentions, also in cotton and denim. The cut is a new one for yohji. I tried them on but unfortunately was not too into it. The legs were too tapered in my opinion, and they had rows of buttons going up the legs which I did not like
    - Also had several types of t-shirts, many of which I liked. Prices were at least 21,000 yen (still cheaper than the tees on LN-CC), but not really worth it in my opinion. Also had the standard yohji button downs, black pants and costume stuff. It was nice, but probably not worth it at retail.

    In sum, I do like the collection for the most part, but the high prices require one to be very choosy. Having a decent selection is also important. I am definitely planning on going to the kyoto store during sale time in January. Hopefully there will be some decent stuff left over, and at 40% off I think it'll get a lot more attractive.
     


  15. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Thanks for the impressions sshum and stads. Doesn't look like I will be traveling before next year comes round so won't have a chance to handle anything unless I purchase it first, heh. So, good to get as much info as possible from others.

    david, I think I mentioned that I was chasing the three (or was it two?) button iteration of your jacket with the pleating details at the back? Looked excellent. SS11 really has a lot of stellar pieces in it.


    This is from yesterday but forgot to post -


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    AW11 YYPH wool gabardine blazer. Not on the runway, but an excellent piece all the same. Four pockets on the outside and three pockets on the inside. Has a nice patterned lining on the sleeves. My first Yohji jacket too :D.

    Wearing it with AW11 YYPH cotton shirt and SS11 rayon/polyester button hem pants (picked up from wire). Really like the fabric of this shirt as it is extremely soft and hangs beautifully. Length is just perfect as well. Goes with every single one of my pants and can be made more formal by doing up the top button. The pants are really amazing. The fabric is beautiful with such a nice drape and the perfect rise. The buttons at the hem allow the opening to be adjusted from a more tapered look to one that is wider open. Multiple iterations of this pair were used on the runway in various fabrics and with different patterns. The waist is huge and makes me think that I could have fit into a size 2 as well if I wanted a more cropped look. These are size 3,, everything else is size 4.

    Shoes are by Marsell.
     


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