Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[PregnantBob]

Criticizing the choice of pairing the Rottweiler with Yohji is a pointless exercise in the old 'us vs them' debate, it's also unnecessarily elitist. I've always felt Yohji pieces to be the foil in a diamond ring.... yeah I did just say it makes me feel like a diamond wearing his pieces.

The thought and attention to detail in the philosophy espoused by Yohji translate itself to me as an understanding, an understanding that doesn't amount to conflict with other styles or design philosophies. I think a lot of the beauty in Yohji is the acceptance of diversity which paradoxically gives it its uniqueness.

I sincerely doubt Yohji himself would care if you paired his pieces with more 'hyped' styles, I get that ironically, to define freedom you need boundaries, but that doesn't mean to stick yourself down a well and never bothering to look up.

I don't look particularly fantastic like you guys wearing Yohji, but it doesn't matter. Because I feel fantastic.

I found the attached photo on a forum elsewhere (could it even be the same Shui with the Givenchy sweater?) I really like the pairing of a Dior Homme SS12 shirt (almost Rick Owens like, but maybe it's the hair) with the Yohji pants(I don't think it was mentioned which season), it's an interesting silhouette and I wish i could pull it off. But the point is that it feels like some would say that DH represents the anti-thesis of Yohji but here they work just fine.

 

[davidlee388]

I don't look particularly fantastic like you guys wearing Yohji, but it doesn't matter. Because I feel fantastic.

Very well said, it's all about self-gratification.

 

[Ivwri]

Ha, didn't think that shui fit would result in so much conversation . Completely agree with the way syed and bob put it though I think kiko's initial comments may have been taken more seriously than he meant them to be taken.

In relation to what bob just put down about how Yohji clothing can make you feel fantastic, I just received a pair of AW08 pants from valter (thanks a lot man, shipping was pretty quick ) and so I have received my first YY piece since I took a bit of a shopping break, hehe. They are the multi-pocket pants that were paired with the signature DB jackets from that season - http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2008MEN-YJIYMOTO/?iphoto=0 and http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2008MEN-YJIYMOTO/?iphoto=3 in black 103 wool gabardine. Fantastic in motion! There is something to be said for receiving new Yohji in the mail that cannot be described really. I had picked up the Yang Li bomber recently for example, and while it felt nice to finally see it and handle it person and try it on etc. it just did not capture that feeling handling a new pair of Yohji pants can elicit. The combination of the wool gabardine plus the volume of fabric and then finally trying it on and walking around is just awesome. The pants also have the hand stitching details on the pockets that shows up on the jackets as well and the buttons have a very satisfying snap to them. 7 pockets in all. Wore it out today and if possible will take a pic to put up here.

I saw a quote by John Waters where he describes wearing Comme des Garçons and it is interesting how to me it simultaneously matches the feeling of wearing Yohji clothing and highlights the difference between the two designers and their brands. I guess essentially for me it is that both designers have created brands that attract a devoted following and wearing their clothing is almost like speaking a different language known only to a select few. Yet, Yohji is like whispering that language while Comme is like speaking it out loud. Both designers have 'loud' pieces, but I think Comme is way more confrontational in a way than Yohji. Pretty interesting how they diverged as, to be honest, a lot of the time I cannot tell early Comme and early Yohji apart at all.

EDIT - Don't know how I forgot to mention Parker's fit. Damn man, you are really doing Yohji justice. Love the summer vibe of the whole outfit and the hat is just the clincher! Like David wrote, it is the "Yohji booster" (I think I am going to add that phrase to my lexicon now, the idea of Yohji boosting things appeals to me ). Will definitely thumb up once I get on my laptop. People keep saying how summer means they can't look cool, but i think this thread is proving that maxim wrong. Also David, I really like the way the SS11 shirt/waistcoat fits you. I think sizing up was definitely the way to go for sure. I wish I could have.

 

[the shah]

Good point, Ivwri. I think the loudness is both internalyl and externally explained. By that I mean, if we assume base on observation of similarity early on, Yohji and Rei started at roughly the same point (geographically, culturally, and materialistically in terms of what was most accessible) they represent the culmination of two very different and indeed opposing philosophies. This is sorta stating the obvious but Rei's work has thrived not only because of the intense and loyal following but because of the ultimate marketing machine it has because esp with the diffusion lines, and this is a strategy still inspiring newcomers to the field today. In total contrast, Yohji's work has essentially stayed true to itself, for lack of better expression, wihout alteration and survived on its own intense following, the generosity of some, and a stroke of great fortune. That's the internal explanation. The external one is due to the consumer, where in yohji-verse it's [mostly] purists while in the cdg-verse you have not just those interested in rei's work but those drawn by newer deviations, those populating the blogosphere competing for online traffic and magazines compeing for ad revenues which naturally resort to the loud as attention grabbers. Sorry if this is all so self-evident
/rant

As for yohji pairingd, it's my opinion that the only rule for yohji is that there is no rule

 

[dantebykiko]

arena homme plus, s/s12

 

[bosatlbwi]



Criticizing the choice of pairing the Rottweiler with Yohji is a pointless exercise in the old 'us vs them' debate, it's also unnecessarily elitist. I've always felt Yohji pieces to be the foil in a diamond ring.... yeah I did just say it makes me feel like a diamond wearing his pieces.
The thought and attention to detail in the philosophy espoused by Yohji translate itself to me as an understanding, an understanding that doesn't amount to conflict with other styles or design philosophies. I think a lot of the beauty in Yohji is the acceptance of diversity which paradoxically gives it its uniqueness.
I sincerely doubt Yohji himself would care if you paired his pieces with more 'hyped' styles, I get that ironically, to define freedom you need boundaries, but that doesn't mean to stick yourself down a well and never bothering to look up.
I don't look particularly fantastic like you guys wearing Yohji, but it doesn't matter. Because I feel fantastic.
I found the attached photo on a forum elsewhere (could it even be the same Shui with the Givenchy sweater?) I really like the pairing of a Dior Homme SS12 shirt (almost Rick Owens like, but maybe it's the hair) with the Yohji pants(I don't think it was mentioned which season), it's an interesting silhouette and I wish i could pull it off. But the point is that it feels like some would say that DH represents the anti-thesis of Yohji but here they work just fine.

thats a great look

 

[davidlee388]

YYPH AW07 Look 35 Frock Coat in black ( HX-J67-137 ) 75/25 wool/rayon blend, medium weight boiled wool feel. Size 2, big buttons, 8B DB closure with small peak lapels, optional stand collar look with lapel button, blue stitched buttonholes. Narrow single-buttoned working sleeves, shoulder pads, 2 inside pockets, unlined at the back. 2 flapped bottom pockets with long pleats behind them. Long back vent from waistline. Dramatic flare when worn unbuttoned. Vampire coat....

YYPH AW09 Wool Insert SS Tee ( HZ-T34-095 ) Size 3, 100% medium grade cotton, black with 5 yellow & beige random wool patches at the front. Very nice neckline,

YYPH SS11 Look 16 Elastic Hem Pants in black ( HO-P02-016 ) Size 2, 100% cotton, brushed, dry hand ' old feel ' fabric. Button closure with drawstring and belt loops. 4 front pleats, side pockets and 2 back buttoned flap patch pockets. Cropped pants in length with soft elastic hem bands.

Y's x Dr Martens AW08 Boots ( ME-E53-752 ) in black leather, size 2.

 

[the shah]

Mr Lee that's fantastic ! I love the back details

 

[MS007]

Cross Post. Some Footwear at Barneys Sale

 

[davidlee388]

Mr Lee that's fantastic ! I love the back details

Thanks, it was actually WAY MORE dramatic in red on the Runway but I am too shy to pull that off

 

[valter]

I need that AW07 coat in size 3 so badly...

 

[dantebykiko]

great fit david! are the pants tucked in? i hate this but it looks rather nice on here. seems like you can't go wrong with all black outfits. all of the previous(all black) are been top.

few wise words before the weekend from s/s 08

 

[davidlee388]



great fit david! are the pants tucked in? i hate this but it looks rather nice on here. seems like you can't go wrong with all black outfits. all of the previous(all black) are been top. 

few wise words before the weekend from s/s 08

Thanks K, yes the pants are tucked in. I am an old school black YY fan, probably cos I'm old...no kidding.

Yes wise words indeed, I wonder what the matching pants say...

PS. I read your PM, there is no hurry and time limit in acquiring Yohji because his stuff are so timeless.

 

[valter]

That line is taken from Bob Dylan's It's Alright Ma (I'm Only Bleeding):

"Pointed threats, they bluff with scorn
Suicide remarks are torn
From the fool’s gold mouthpiece the hollow horn
Plays wasted words, proves to warn
That he not busy being born is busy dying"

 

[Parker]

^ yeah, that collection was full of Dylan-isms. very cool, imo.

another great look david. you've got quite a selection of yohji! keep 'em coming. the Docs look particularly nice in that context. like how the yellow stitching echoes the t-shirt.

thx for the comments on my last fit, guys. lol, about "yohji booster". hats are nice puncuation marks. they can really push a look in one direction or another.

I quite like the fit with the dog sweater. I guess the givenchy comes with certain fixed associations, but had I not known that, I would just think it's a fun graphic sweater the way yohji does his kooky aliens or pin-up girls. though yohji seems to have a little more humor, e.g. the boxers with the barking dog on the crotch ;-D