Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[Parker]

heheh, thx ivwri! really enjoying wearing this today. yeah the hair is getting a little out of control. it's also windy here again today.

David, you've got quite an amazing yohji wardrobe. those pants are killer. Do you ever wear them unrolled?

 

[davidlee388]



heheh, thx ivwri! really enjoying wearing this today. yeah the hair is getting a little out of control. it's also windy here again today.
David, you've got quite an amazing yohji wardrobe. those pants are killer. Do you ever wear them unrolled?

Parker, your suit looks absolutely fine on you I am a " sleeve " YY fan, if the sleeves are good ( just above knuckles in my very defined standard ) for a jacket, the rest doesn't really matter IMO. So full marks on your fit.

My pants were rolled 3 times ( can't be bothered having them tailored ) to give that lazy look . They don't look quite right on me fully down ( they are sz 3 pants with a sz 2 waist ) especially when wearing boots to give a better proportion.

PS. those pants cost me only 11k, BNWT on a Y! sleeper. Japan retail was 42k ( same as the Look 39 type 2 Hakamas ). A result

 

[davidlee388]



damn son, look at that drape from the side
the perfect cropped pant

http://www.ln-cc.com/invt/yoh0110017blk

LN-CC is a tremendous shop, I have been there several times, super friendly, the customer service is second to none. Its manager Michael ( one of the owners' brother ) even offered me and my wife a free taxi ride back to our hotel 20 mins away TWICE after we shopped there.

BUT its online marketing ( for Yohji at least ) is flawed. Firstly it has been using the same model to depict YYPH online, he is 6"3 with a 28.5" waist and all Yohji look far too small on him. It's a cardinal sin to fail showing the garnents the way they should look in peron when a vast majority of its business I guess is from online purchases. Secondly for all the detailed descriptions of the pieces there is a major problem when the measurennts are concerned, they are rather random at best. They need to do something quick to stay ahead of the game because they are very competitive in prices ( their YYPH are on average about 10% cheaper retail than the equivalents in Conduit and their aggressive sale strategies, a maximum of 70% off can be had whilst Global YY stores only offer 40% off, period ).

LN-CC has also stopped stocking YY Femme after AW11 which is a shame.

 

[davidlee388]

Gonna go Hervia Bazaar AW12 browsing.



YYPH AW05 Look 34 Leather Insert Blazer ( HN-J50-106 ) 90/10 wool/nylon blend, the signature AW05 fabric, woven, tough but at the same time soft handed. Sz 2, square silhoutte, slight dropped shoulders, perfect sleeves. Small peak lapels, special metal buttons, 3B closure, non-working buttoned sleeves. Random patches of leather with 4 built-in metal zipped pockets inserted on front and back panels and upper arms with raw seamed fabric above. Simplicity with an edge.

Y's for men AW08 Drawstring Pants ( ME-P52-074 ) - posted before, my everyday pants.

Basic Tee ( seldom wear shirt, plus need to try stuff on ), CDG H+ belt and Timberland creepers.

AW12.....hmmm, not blowing me away sofar. May change my mind in a few hours' time.

 

[dantebykiko]

a/w97 suit, muji black tee, cdgh boots, rick tote.





+ something from yesterday. muji cardigan, yyph shirt with waistcoat 2 in 1, s/s94 trousers, cons.

 

[Ivwri]



LN-CC is a tremendous shop, I have been there several times, super friendly, the customer service is second to none. Its manager Michael ( one of the owners' brother ) even offered me and my wife a free taxi ride back to our hotel 20 mins away TWICE after we shopped there.
BUT its online marketing ( for Yohji at least ) is flawed. Firstly it has been using the same model to depict YYPH online, he is 6"3 with a 28.5" waist and all Yohji look far too small on him. It's a cardinal sin to fail showing the garnents the way they should look in peron when a vast majority of its business I guess is from online purchases. Secondly for all the detailed descriptions of the pieces there is a major problem when the measurennts are concerned, they are rather random at best. They need to do something quick to stay ahead of the game because they are very competitive in prices ( their YYPH are on average about 10% cheaper retail than the equivalents in Conduit and their aggressive sale strategies, a maximum of 70% off can be had whilst Global YY stores only offer 40% off, period ).
LN-CC has also stopped stocking YY Femme after AW11 which is a shame.

Yeah I agree that they don't style the model correctly which is indeed a shame and does not help with selling the garments correctly, however, it seems like a lot of online Yohji retail does exactly the same thing. Another example would be Atelier who style it correctly in their showroom pics, but once it gets to the product page, it becomes sized down again. It even shows with how they seem to be reducing the number of size 4 buys they make, completely ignoring size 4 in some jackets for example. I keep thinking that it is because a lot of people seem to like Yohji's garments but feel very hesitant and maybe even downright uncomfortable about wearing them oversized the way they were designed. Maybe they are all doing this to maximise and encourage sales of Yohji product? Then again, with the robot poses the models use, having the fit oversized may not do much to flatter the clothing.

It is indeed a shame that LNCC stopped stocking Yohji for women, their last buy didn't do too well from what I saw though with a lot of pieces hanging around at 70% and even lower off. Guess they figured they would stock other brands that are similarly priced but might move faster (Haider Ackerman etc.).

I have been tempted to bring the issue of "correct" sizing the clothing on their model up with their customer service at some point but I haven't been able to figure out a way that I wouldn't just come off as a busybody so I don't in the end, hehe. Maybe it will be easier to discuss stuff like this in person with them.

Gonna go Hervia Bazaar AW12 browsing.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

YYPH AW05 Look 34 Leather Insert Blazer ( HN-J50-106 ) 90/10 wool/nylon blend, the signature AW05 fabric, woven, tough but at the same time soft handed. Sz 2, square silhoutte, slight dropped shoulders, perfect sleeves. Small peak lapels, special metal buttons, 3B closure, non-working buttoned sleeves. Random patches of leather with 4 built-in metal zipped pockets inserted on front and back panels and upper arms with raw seamed fabric above. Simplicity with an edge. 

Y's for men AW08 Drawstring Pants ( ME-P52-074 ) - posted before, my everyday pants.

Basic Tee ( seldom wear shirt, plus need to try stuff on ), CDG H+ belt and Timberland creepers.

AW12.....hmmm, not blowing me away sofar. May change my mind in a few hours' time.

These leather insert jackets are so cool. Really like this one with the asymmetrical leather strips at the back and the zip details.

Looking forward to your impressions david. Looks like this season so far appeared more sexy on the runway than on the racks which is a bit disappointing. I am hoping for more flagship store visits as it is also possible that most stores just picked up pieces that were the safest (and hence boring) released especially considering the price points of some of the stuff. wireartist did say he was really unimpressed with the faux fur coats in person. That the construction and fit were fine but the fabric and fur were really not nice. Everybody seems to love the lapel-less button jackets though.

Make sure you try on the cape and take pictures david! I see Hervia still has at least one in stock .

 

[Ivwri]

That suit really works for you kiko. The length is just perfect and I really like the way the jacket looks with the sleeves rolled up. Good stuff.

 

[surver]



Night out dressed-down/dressed-up outfit.


Y's Yohji Yamamoto SS05 String Blouson ( MY-Y02-001 ) 100% cotton, dark black, dry hand medium weight fabric. Unlined, size 3, Big shirt collar, double riri zip closure, riri zipped side pockets and zippers for the sleeves also. Adjustable waist with long string through 6 eyelets on each side at the back. 




YYPH SS11 Drop Crotch Cargo Pants ( HO-P55-057 ) 100% cotton, thin, dry hand brushed fabric. Size 3, likely to be Japan Exclusive because waist is very much a regular size 2. Button closure with belt loops. Side pockets, 2 buttoned flap back pockets, large left cargo pocket with buttoned flap. Super drop crotch ( to the knees ) makes the VW Man ones look tame. Wide hems. Dramatic and go well imo with the tighter upper half silhouette. Yohji still the best in this kind of pants. 

Y's x Dr. Martens AW08 Boots ( ME-E53-752 ) - already posted

Basic SS Tee and CDG H+ belt.

great pants!!! please let me know if you come across someone selling a pair; would love to have a pair am a waist 32".

 

[xumatrix]

pic source weibo
this shop is in
http://www2.seibu.jp/wsc-customer-app/page/020/dynamic/top/Top

oh my wallet

 

[davidlee388]



great pants!!! please let me know if you come across someone selling a pair; would love to have a pair am a waist 32".

BTW, sz 3 has a waist of about 32" ( I needed a belt ideally to wear them ). If I remember rightly, Rex Woo did/still does have a pair in a beige colour on his FB page.

 

[davidlee388]

Hey surver, here they are:-






He asked HKD 1680 back in June this year.

 

[davidlee388]

Hervia AW12 stock visit.
I have to apologise first for hijacking the whole page because I have yet to find out how to hide pics in the Spoiler.
Anyway just went to Hervia to look at the AW12. Their stock are rather randomly arranged among other designers' so it's difficult to see everything. Plus it's a hot day ( 23 C ) and it's boiling in the shop with the spotlights and lack of air-con. Also some of the pics are poor in quality and funny angles; my wife tried to secretly take them only to be told we were actually allowed pictures anyway after I tried the pieces so I couldn't be bothered to do it again. So I managed to try a few that had my size:-

Look 34 Contrast Stitch Robe Blazer ( not shown online but in the shop! ) HD-J45-111-2


For me the best piece and probably the one I will buy in due course. This is dark brown in colour with white reverse stitches on seams and small peak lapels. I'll have the Runway piece in black. The reverse stitches remind me of my wife's vintage blouson's finish by Plantation, an Issey Miyake diffusion line in the 90s. Very striking in person. Size 2 fits perfectly. Longish sleeves, lazy silhouette. The button placket has this extra bit of fabric sticking out, decorational probably. It is actually a SB/DB blazer, the Yohji twist. SB via one button, DB with 2 buttons. Interestingly the upper DB button is smaller than the lower one...reason? No inside pockets. The fabric feels like....er....bathrobe, whether it's £1300 worth? Unlined but is cosy and warm.

Look 32 Regimental Blanket Jacket HD-J41-110


Only 1 picture ( the othes far too dark ) but you get the idea. Incidentally it is 110 fabric, not 111 on Look 34 ( can't remember the difference in composition ) but it feels the same to me. Navy blue with burned orange stitches, very dramatic. Size 2 a regular fit ( hence I prefer Look 34 ), still nice and frock coat in length. 1B closure. Buttons galore! The runway pic does not show the middle panels can be adjusted 2 ways via 2 rolls of buttons on each side, varying the chest size which is good. Placket fabric strips hanging out from the hood bit, funky. Unlined and quite warm. Good piece.

Military Shallow Tail Hood Coat HD-J13-194-2


Non-runway piece right? 70/25/5 laine wool/polyester/others blend, a bit woven and quite heavy. Size 2, fully lined in cupro, fit is similar to Look 32 except there is no adjustment on chest ( only 1 roll of buttons each side ) and the centre panels are fastened by studs. Fitted silhouette echoes the military theme.

Check Cardigan

60/35/5 alpaca/nylon/wool blend. Size 3 ( only size available ) 7B closure, quite low V-neck, very long but very nice in person. The buttons and button hole placket are constructed on a different panel giving a 3-D effect. I will be happy to buy this ( in the sale lol )

N-sleeve Cape


This is Darrell the SA doing the modelling. Size 3 only, totally not my taste, quite fiddly to wear although given time you can work it out. The female SA called Faye tried it on as well and it looked better on her! We were all scratching our heads how to reach the pockets....Definitely LOTR inspired, it will work well with the Gandalf hat.

I also tried the Front Open Long Sleeve T-shirt in sz 3. Cotton/wool/cashmere blend. Very soft hand fabric. Very long sleeves and a regular fit. The funnel neck opening is the highlight. 8B ( I think ) closure but they are actually double-sided buttons and both sides of funnel neck have button holes allowing different ways of fastening, the best to me being a 3-D closure adding a different dimension. All these make the YY signature at the back below collar soooo unnecessary....

Also saw the Hem Button Pants, £760, wow price wise for being cotton only. Also the hems are really narrow, they are certainly not baggy ( not my cup of tea ) so didn't bother try them on.

That's all the info I can manage to gather before we both melted in the shop. I will say that first impressions are not bad at all. I agree with Ivwri though, they look better on Runway than irl. Saying that, Look 34 has my name on it...eventually

Hervia still has some YYPH SS12 left. The SAs were very kind to offer 80% off retail while we were there. So I was obliged to get the Look 41 Hooded Striped Shirt in sz 2 ( I tried before but didn't buy @40% off a month ago ) for £120 ( bargain ) although I will be sent the item because the sale stock had been relocated. The Look 43 Napolean Shirt Jacket in sz 3 is still available but you need a phone call to ask politely for 80% off ( online 70% off ) so someone should grab it. Very nice piece.

 

[Parker]

thanks for sharing, david. it's helpful to see how the different sizes fit you as I think we're about the same build.

the more I look thru the FW runway collection photos I'm realizing I think I like it better as a 'show concept' than for my wardrobe. I'm not totally loving any particular piece enough to buy. The few things I like -- the hooded overcoat (Look 35), the horn button jacket (Look 30, 31) or the navy miliary jacket (Look 10) -- would either not get much wear in my climate or are super expensive. I might have to wait for SS13

 

[davidlee388]



thanks for sharing, david. it's helpful to see how the different sizes fit you as I think we're about the same build.
the more I look thru the FW runway collection photos I'm realizing I think I like it better as a 'show concept' than for my wardrobe. I'm not totally loving any particular piece enough to buy. The few things I like -- the hooded overcoat (Look 35), the horn button jacket (Look 30, 31) or the navy miliary jacket (Look 10) -- would either not get much wear in my climate or are super expensive. I might have to wait for SS13

Yes that is correct. They can be a little tricky IMO to work with YY from other seasons. In fact they probably blend well with DD, Ann D etc.

To add, the 2 coats ( they are classed as jackets J- ) I tried on felt more like costumes than clothes if that makes sense.

 

[Ivwri]

Thanks for the very comprehensive write-up David. Much appreciated .

Shame that it seems this season is turning out to be more runway than rack, but let's see what impressions are like from a flagship as well. Glad to hear you were still happy with what you saw though. Still looking for impressions of the navy jackets, hehe.