Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. Lionheart Biker

    Lionheart Biker Senior member

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    +10000 I´d love to get my hands on a jacket like that. Looks amazing
     


  2. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Hey, from what I can see that wool jacket looks to fit pretty perfect. Wish the photo was brighter. If you can size up on that hoodie, then I think you should go for it. Definitely agree with Unc there. I think most of this stuff is Y's right? So they may actually not be meant to fit as oversized as mainline, all depends on the cut. The l/s tee you posted I think is a good fit though. I have one that is pretty similar and the sleeves stop right where yours do now. What sizes are the top and the jacket? That will be a great guide to determining your actual size I think. If I remember correctly the jacket was a size 3?
     


  3. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Agree fully with Ivrwri. It's kinda hard to tell from just these pictures but the sizing on the tee looks good, sleeves should be long - or at least that's something I encourage! :slayer: The sleeves on the jacket hits just right so my guess is you sized that one right as well.

    Even if that is Y's, knits and hoodies from YYPH can actually be quite tight so that's to be expected from a few pieces. Still, I would probably have sized up or returned it unless you love it.
     


  4. Caveat

    Caveat Senior member

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    I'm going to return the sweater/hoodie. I'm too old for hoodies anyway. The shirt and coat are size 3 and I definitely think the shirt is sized right after trying it on again. Looking forward to getting more stuff that I can wear them with.

    What do you think of the linen vest? Is that a good piece? I like the buttons, but can't think how a linen vest would look or feel in person. Is it versatile enough to wear with other stuff besides Y? The model is wearing a 3, so I'm not sure if I should size up in that. I'm 5-10 165. Do you know how the sizing works? I don't know how vests are measured.
     


  5. Pangolin

    Pangolin Senior member

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    Hmm... I bought that same hoodie in size 3 last spring from WW. I find it to work really well with 45RPM pieces for some reason, and I also use it a lot as an under layer.
     


  6. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Some more details. Both items are from FW11 and I wore both of them today.

    Click to enbiggen -

    100% cotton khaki pants with buttons on the waist allowing for adjustment of both the width and the pleating in the front. There's also a stitched in cuff at the hem of the pants. Fabric is stiff, but very comfortable and not particularly warm. I really like the colour and texture of the fabric which you can see is green with flecks of white.

    [​IMG]


    Shirt is 100% cotton and as shown has a double collar - the collar underneath is stitched to the underside of the top collar - and a double placket. The second placket's button holes are slightly out of sync with the buttons on the shirt, meaning that even when fully buttoned it will bunch up at the top which I quite like.

    [​IMG]


    Fit -

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Bonus pic with a now too small corduroy jacket :(

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2012


  7. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Good stuff! Was actually looking to pick up a pair of khaki pants from aw11. What's this particular fabric like? Stiff? White shirt is excellent of course, no one cuts a better shirt than Yohji :D


    [​IMG]
     


  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yup, the fabric is stiff but lightweight. Very comfortable.
     


  9. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yohji AW 2012/2013 is tomorrow in Paris!

    Here's the live link on Nowfashion.com. Should be showing at 6pm GMT +1.

    Looking forward to this immensely. I ended up with an inordinate amount of pieces from his AW11 collection and I still have about 3 or 4 I am hunting down in a size 4. Anyone want to speculate about what the collection tomorrow could be like?

    Here's my 'fashion write-up'

    We went from Spring 2011 where Yohji said people were not dressing up any more and so he went full on formal and OTT referencing a time in Western cultures that men dressed up and were expected to. Lots of colour and patterns and a much slimmer style than usually associated with Yohji. Breeches, tail coats, top hats and floral patterned suits were the order of the day here. Considering all the trouble Yohji and his company had been going through not long before, it felt like Yohji letting loose once more and showing renewed vigor.

    Then AW11 came with a more muted palette and mood. Yohji dwelled on mortality and a particular kind of honest masculinity tinged with vulnerability (one of the models even had a handkerchief he was using to mop his sweating brow). He added a shirt/jacket hybrid to his repertoire of clothing forms and played with the nature and definition of some pieces (shirt-jacket hybrids, cardigans with what looked like other cardigans underneath, coats with double lapels, cardigans with blazer lapels etc.).

    SS12 brought volume back to Spring and in what a way! Hakama-inspired and tapered "ninja" pants were the predominant trousers in this collection. Yohji blended East & West to execute another take on the traditional suit and bring a casual ease to Spring. His models were not men in skirts, but they were not far off.

    Is there any progressive thread one could follow here? Are we looking at more colour? Less colour? More skirts? Reduced volume? A reiteration of a past collection? A new collaboration? Yohji had said there were going to be new projects unveiled soon - we saw s'yte last year. Could this season be the one where he unveils a new facet of the revitalised YY?? Will we get more erotic print coats??? Will Yohji get women to walk down the catwalk in men's clothes again???!!

    Tomorrow we shall have all the answers (and hopefully get a good collection to boot ;)).
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2012


  10. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Thanks pppp. Unfortunately, I can barely button that blazer now. Kind of scary that at this time last year I could fit into some size 48 things :embar:. Yohji has been giving me a false sense of my true size :D.
     


  11. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Just a few hours left! Unfortunately won't be able to watch the live stream this time, will have to wait a few more hours. :(

    I had slightly more reserved expectations before this current spring collection showed, this time around my expectations are really high and I feel he's got what it takes to make a really relevant and cohesive collection. While the last 4 has been amazing for me in different ways, the spring collections have been a lot more daring, thematically cohesive and more expressive of a singular vision in way and I hope he can deliver that this time around. The fall/winter collections - counting the 4.1 "greatest hits" (which I probably would be happy as a day-to-day wardrobe for the rest of my life) - have been safer and more a general take on menswear, the last one had almost an August Sander-esque vibe of dressing different characters. Hoping for something on par with SS12 this time. It'll be interesting to see if he will keep using colors as much as the last 3 collections. As for the clothes, hoping for some new ideas and sharp execution. Not worried about the pants and shirts, those are always on-point. I am hoping for some more massive overcoats, thought AW11 lacked that a bit, and some showpieces, with our without prints this time.

    :slayer:
     


  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    I am now in the process of tempering my expectations a bit now, lol. Still looking forward to it of course. He does seem to have a newfound zeal and all the anniversary celebrations and various exhibitions should have put him in a good mood I hope. Let's see what happens. Will put up photos here for easy viewing :)
     


  13. Lane

    Lane Senior member

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    save the day yohji...
     


  14. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Man, I was just thinking of you when I saw the Rick show. What is he doing really???
     


  15. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Just read via that Yohji is launching a new brand called Yohji Jeans in collaboration with Edwin Jeans of Japan. More info at the link. This might be a pointer to what to expect from AW2012. Might be an opportunity for them to showcase some of the pieces they are working on for the collection.
     


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