Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[snowmanxl]

Awesome pick up ivwri! Ive got the yang li in black
It's kind of stretchy and cut extremely well. Just hangs off the body.
I only wish it had zips at the cuff like the women's version

 

[Blackmaged]

that bomber is amazing. hopefully someone stocks the fw version in a 44

 

[asobu]

Wow, love this, and love that you're channeling AW04. Now I want to see Parker do that as well! Gorgeous pants, the cotton looks like it drapes beautifully. Now I want a pair!

 

[Ivwri]

Thanks guys.

I really like this bomber. Kept going back and forth on it, but seeing the AW12 collection is what actually pushed me to pick it up in the end. Looks like he is actually channelling a bit of Yohji as well with his stuff for women in particular. Definitely someone to look out for.

Would be great to see Parker doing the whole Teddy Boy look. Think he would blow that look out of the water for sure. The fabric of the navy pants does indeed drape very well, you should have no reservations about picking up a pair whenever you have the chance, very solid pair of pants with no frills. If I can get one in black I will definitely pick it up.

 

[Parker]

that looks great, Ivwri. Kind of different for you, yeah? Also not immediately recognizable as "typical oversized Yohji" since the silhouette/proportions are fairly slim. It's also a bit of 'suedehead/soulstylist' to it.

Would be great to see Parker doing the whole Teddy Boy look.

heheh :- ) you know AW04 is in my Top 5! I wouldn't mind one of those frayed-edge frock coats or silk bombers from that collection. I'd need a hairstylist to give me a pomp' tho.

There is a perfect point, a point of rapture. In the world of fashion, there is the ideal point for even a button. One dons a jacket and buttons it. The relative weight of the jacket gathers at precisely that point. It is at that instant that the garment comes to life and the button has fulfilled its destiny.

The life or death of a garment depends on finding the point of rapture for that button. A garment may have three buttons, or six, but it is the location of that single button that is the key. The other buttons are but useful foot soliders.

I loved the button and pocket essays, Ivwri. Thanks for posting those. it's funny, the button comment sounds a lot like the discussion in the men's clothing forum about achieving the perfect jacket button point. I've heard it decribed as a "fulcrum" by Despos or maybe it was Manton. I like Yohji's description as "a point of rapture." The differences in looks maybe be quite great, but the idea behind it is pretty much the same.

Also wrt pockets, I do like that Yohji puts pockets in a more "natural" location than on traditional style suit pants. ie. they are usually a little lower and positioned so that you can easily reach in, despite being all over the place. It's at once practical and artistic. And creates more of a relaxed "street" look.

that's great fit parker, as iwvri said, the motion of the shirt must me really nice. you can see the transparency of the fabric from the photo, i can imagine how the air go through it. the only think that i would change if it was me wearing this would be the shoes or the t-shirt. if it was with black t-shirt would be stronger and opposite, black shoes and white t-shirt. 

thanks man. yeah, the shirt is somewhat sheer. it was cool to walk in the wind with the long tail and see my shadow on the ground. The shirt makes sort of a transparent shadow and the rest of me is solid. and I agree with the shirt/shoe. after I saw the picture I thought black shoes would have been a tighter combo.

 

[fireflygrave]

Welp, just took the plunge! I have a pair of look 7 ss12 hakamas and a sort of deconstructed jacket (not sure what season) on the way! Can't wait for them to arrive!

 

[pickpackpockpuck]

Nice! Would love to see pics of you out in Memphis wearing your hakamas.

Just looked back at the early days of this thread. Funny to see that SS12 appealed to me so much back in January, but it took me a full six months to finally buy any Yohji. Guess that's not a bad thing. Certainly can't say it was an impulse buy. I took a pic today because I'm wearing my pants but it's terrible. Need to try again. I'm happy to say that the volume required no getting used to. Maybe it's because I wore REALLY baggy pants as a kid. Hah. But they feel very natural and I feel like the shape suits my frame very well. Got a compliment on them too. Because the fabric is so nice I feel simultaneously dressed up and relaxed. Would love to get a jacket eventually.

By the way, anyone seen of the Edwin denim X Yohji pieces on sale? Think it was supposed to be available in June. http://www.sportswearnet.com/fashio...JI-YAMAMOTO-LAUNCH-NEW-JEANS-BRAND-_4870.html

 

[Parker]



I feel simultaneously dressed up and relaxed.

 

[Ivwri]

@Parker man, your hair is already rockstar enough without you going the full pomp. That would just be too much for us to handle. You should do it ! Yeah this look is definitely different for me, but I like it. Something about cropped pants, big cuffs and creeper soles always makes me smile. Also makes for a bit of a change after all the volume, hehe. Not going to become a standard look though. Will try out the jacket with hakamas next and see whether they work with them.

@firefly Glad you took the plunge. Hope they both work out! Definitely post pics when you get them in.

@p4 All this suspense man, I am still waiting to see a pic .

 

[the shah]

great stuff everyone !

Ivwri is that the ones from current season ? if the 3 hits you there I guess I need a 2

this also looks nice but it seems very slim, I'm same size as the moth more or less. i thought about it, then thought about the black jersey military from this spring, then I realized I have nothing for a yohji winter :foo:

YYPH FW08 jacket, size 4

 

[pickpackpockpuck]

Hah, well they're just pants. Not going to blow your mind or anything.

Spoiler

:tounge:

 

[Ivwri]

Yup, pants are the ones from this season. I guess a size 2 could work for sure.

That '08 jacket is definitely cut pretty slim, but I fit into a size 4 comfortably. If you are same size as M-M then you should definitely go for it though. Very surprised that it has been on his sales thread for that long without a taker actually. As for a Yohji winter, not sure what fabric iteration his is, but I doubt that jacket will serve you through one (well, depending on how harsh your winters are I guess). Nothing wrong with having stuff for a Yohji autumn and and something else for a Yohji winter though

 

[Ivwri]



Hah, well they're just pants. Not going to blow your mind or anything.

Spoiler

Still good to see . Your fit is basically what I default to whenever I get pretty busy with work.

 

[davidlee388]

Continuing the " button " and " street " vibe, Yohji did them so well in SS 2008




YYPH SS08 Look 12 Dyed Shirt Jacket ( HM-B13-059 ) 100% cotton, wrinkly dry hand fabric. Off white, size 2. Beige buttons, 6B closure. Left chest 3-D buttoned flap pocket, bottom right one larger with twin-buttoned flap. Dyed earthy brown blotches all over giving a battered, tired soldier look.

YYPH SS08 Look 2 Cargo Pants ( HM-P70-091 ) 100% cotton, the softest washed cotton for this type of utility pants ( Ivwri will agree ). Size 3, to call them cargo pants is under-selling them. 7 buttoned belt loops, 2 buttons for closure, 2 back buttoned flap pockets. Huge cargo pocket with twin buttoned flaps on each leg. Ballooning silhouette on upper legs. The lower legs are decorated with 2 rolls of 9 buttons on outside, same on inside, allowing width of leg to be adjusted 4 ways creating different silhouettes ( shown here at the narrowest to create a maximum contrast with the baggy upper half of the pants ) So there you have it, 87 buttons in total, absolutely breathtaking construction to the point of crazy. The best ( casual ) pants I have. Same brilliance to the Ronin and Suspender Pants of the same season.

YYPH AW11 Black Monkey Boots ( HP-E05-754 ) Size 2, Ivwri has them too. 15 eyelet lace closure, nubuck-like matt leather, full length inside zips. Vibram Commando soles. Very well made ( albeit in China ).

CDG x Speedo white cotton SS Tee and CDG H+ belt.

 

[pickpackpockpuck]

it's been too warm to wear any layers, or even boots, so this is all i've done with them thus far. the picture doesn't really show the volume well. they're much fuller than they appear here. the camera angle is slimming them a lot. you also can't see how they bunch at the waist from the belt. in fact, i like it so much that i've become a little obsessed with these, the ultimate bunch-at-the-waist pants

Siki Im has a similar idea going on here. These are from the upcoming fall collection, so i'm very curious to see if I can find a pair in real life to check out.