Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

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    SS11 damir cap
    SS12 lapel-less jacket in linen
    uniqlo tee
    SS12 hakamas in jersey cotton
    SS12 cotton sneakers

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    edit - LOL parker I guess I was in stride, my foot is still there :p
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2012


  2. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    hah, got the sneakers finally! looks great.
     


  3. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yeah shah. that looks really good! the damir cap is a very nice touch.

    what happened to your foot?:happy:
     


  4. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    Dopest thing I done ever did see :laugh:

    Did you sell the low tops for the high tops or did you always have them?
    Super awesome fit shah :slayer:
     


  5. xeraphim

    xeraphim Senior member

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    i did try it on, even though the jacket wasn't in my size... it's hot & humid here throughout the year, and if i could see myself wearing the jacket out on the streets in the day, then chances are it should probably work for you as well? fabric weight is a tad bit heavier than the wool gabardine offerings, but still very much breathable.
     


  6. fireflygrave

    fireflygrave Senior member

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    Thanks a bunch guys! Will hopefully have my first yohji piece soon :D
     


  7. valter

    valter Senior member

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    I sold those trousers to Shui! They're A/W2011 wool gabardine drawstring trousers with multiple button adjustments at waist. Superb piece, but they were unfortunately too short for me.
     


  8. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Shah, that was a terrific fit [​IMG] The black-and-white Yohji-man. What was on your right sneaker if I may ask? It's not the tag was it....or an optical illusion? If it was it would be the most original ever! Even better than the Yohji black-eyed look haha.
     


  9. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Thanks for the comment. That vest is tremendous, really! And very rare I think. I like the fact that such a utilitarian piece was done in rayon instead of some heavy duty cotton, just Yohji through and through playing with fabrics. BTW with your build and that nonchalant swagger, you can pull off anything from elegant to streetwise :)

    Parker, Ivwri is right, it's better to get one killer badass piece than ten mediocre ones for the same price. It's worth it in the long run.
     


  10. the shah

    the shah Persian Bro #2 and enabler-in-chief

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    thanks fellas :eek:

    lol it's no optical illusion, Mr Lee, but the tag -- I promise I cut it off before I left house :p
    black-and-white for now, but i have plans for a colorful future, not just in the winter but the SS13 stuff is like a rainforest of fun ! just that all my ultra-lightweight stuff happens to be black hehe

    Mr Snow the I had to return the lows because I had ordered tts then I tried them on in YY store and realized they were too small. I coudn't find the low blues in my size anymore but I realized (after some enabling!) that the dark grey with the white trim would work well for all but my brown outfits.
     


  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Good thing you went for them man, they look really good :nodding:.
     


  12. asobu

    asobu Senior member

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    Shah, man, that looks fantastic. Even better than with the Y's ramie blend jacket, this ss12 jacket is a killer piece and looks great with the hakamas. Very solid, I could wear this every day during summer.
     


  13. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    Too bad they were too short! They're so good.

    Just a random thought: Yohji uses buttons better than any other designer out there, both for ornament and functionality.
     


  14. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Interesting that you say that, not just because I agree, but he also dedicated about 2 and a half pages in "My Dear Bomb" to buttons and their placement on garments. I have that chapter all typed out somewhere...was planning on posting on my tumblr but never got around to it.

    EDIT -


    There is a perfect point, a point of rapture. In the world of fashion, there is the ideal point for even a button. One dons a jacket and buttons it. The relative weight of the jacket gathers at precisely that point. It is at that instant that the garment comes to life and the button has fulfilled its destiny.

    The life or death of a garment depends on finding the point of rapture for that button. A garment may have three buttons, or six, but it is the location of that single button that is the key. The other buttons are but useful foot soliders.

    If the location is the right one, the body of the jacket will slide slightly to the sides when the button is undone. The garment changes depending on what is done with that button. While each garment is different, the general rule is to place the button at the hollow of the solar plexus. That is the point of rapture.

    A thriller will often include a scene in which somebody undoes the button of their jacket as they draw their pistol from underneath. The button serves as the point at which an individual's determination is revealed. That one button, that single point, determines whether or not one breaks through to the other side.

    When the buttons are clumsily placed, a garment loses all its impact. There are advantages to experimenting with the functions of a button as long as one keeps the fundamentals in mind, but even here playing too loosely and casually with the button will appear as a trite little game to even a novice. The more professional one becomes, the less one wants to use buttons. Taken to the extreme, one works for a garment that closes in the front even without the aid of buttons. That is truly good design.

    It is better not to dye the buttons to match the color of the garment. This is not an issue when using white or black, but the different materials used for garments and buttons will result ultimately in hues that do not match. Round buttons are the easiest to use. Other shapes have a story to tell, they will exaggerate the button's function as a point on the garment. One should choose the size of the button - thin and subtle ones or buttons with some bulk, depending on the circumstances. The relationship between the garment and the button is something like that between the shoe and the shoelace.

    Buttons and fasteners have different roles to play. While a button will pull together the power of the fabric, fix it in place, and also release it, the fastener interrupts the flow of a garment. Used properly, a fastener can express a sense of modernism; if it is too concrete, it makes the garment crass.

    In creating a silhouette, buttons are essentially unnecessary. When the fabric has some elasticity, however, the silhouette changes with the undoing of each and every button. It is sometimes possible to shape the silhouette through the placement of buttons.
    Undoing buttons may reduce a garment to nothing more than a piece of cloth, and that would be the heigh of irresponsibility. Such garments are dangerous for those who wear them.

    A feeling of safety and security leads soon to boredom. What has driven fashion through the ages is, at bottom, the way it plays with danger. To have something that hints at danger, something that confounds the conventional understanding of sexy: such wild and untamed elements are what make a garment alluring. Pushing beyond this to transcend the dangerous leads to nonsense, childishness, absurdity. And next comes white heat, a state of unconsciousness.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2012


  15. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    i was flicking the book today in the studio and re-read the chapter where he talks about pockets. it's pretty funny =)
     


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