1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

    Messages:
    982
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2012
    I do admire this notion. However I don't see anything wrong with feeling good wearing his clothes and looking good at the same time, the two should go hand in hand. If Yohji does want to advocate his philosophy this way, and this way only, he will have to order his flagship stores to do without any mirrors whatsoever.

    I did notice you said " to a certain extent " so I am with you on it, to a certain extent [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  2. Auburn

    Auburn Senior member

    Messages:
    188
    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2012
    Location:
    Germany
    Two recent looks....

    [​IMG]
    YYPH/Thrifted shirt/YYPH/Cons

    [​IMG]
    YYCH/Thrifted cardigan/Y's/YYPH/Cons

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  3. blackakira

    blackakira Member

    Messages:
    20
    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2012
    certainly, i believe strongly that an extent can never be carried out to its fullest. if a positive mentality were to be had, its about balance because each side of the coin has its own merits too.

    imagine though if you were so confident in yourself that you wouldn't even have to look in the mirror for assurances. that would be fantastic! im sure wire feels this way when he doesn't have to.
     
  4. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

    Messages:
    982
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2012
    typo
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
  5. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

    Messages:
    982
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2012
    Wire.Artist has attained Yoda status in the Yohji Universe already[​IMG] so he has all the confidence ( and attitude, and nonchalance ) in doing Yohji w/o mirrors. Also if you pick your Yohji wardrobe to suit your frame and personality carefully, doing head-to-toe in Yohji should be auto-pilot, everything just falls into place.

    Also I can't speak for others, but wearing Yohji is about self-gratification. I post fits here merely to share as much info and experience as possible with others, not to get 15 thumb-ups etc. That's what Yohji gives me, a " in your own bubble " feeling so I don't really need approval from others ( would be nice of course if people appreciate ), but that's me [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
  6. blackakira

    blackakira Member

    Messages:
    20
    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2012
    I feel you there. Not there yet, but hoping to be there about 'being in your own bubble'.

    Hope this is a worthwhile thought to voice but I was reading about Basquiat and his wearing of Armani suits while painting. I'm not quite knowledgeable with fashion history so I'm not quite sure what a typical Armani fit is like but while I looked at pictures of him in them I couldn't help but think of a Yohji fit and how he would have been perfect in a Yohji ensemble.


    [​IMG]
     
  7. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    7,761
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    Yerba Buena
    Armani was largely credited for removing the structure from the men's suit and creating a drooped, slouchy silhouette. He may not have been the first to do it, but certainly the most widely known.

    In think Basquiat, like Warhol before him, adopted the typcial dress of the current ruling/business class -- maybe for a contrarian effect? to show simultaneous allegiance to and separation from them? I don't know. He definitely woulda looked good in a Yohji suit. Sorta reminds me of Miles Davis adopting the Ivy Look in the 60s.

    here's an Armani suit circa 1990. you can see some of the similarties with Yohji -- even if this is more Italian.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
    2 people like this.
  8. Jikan

    Jikan Member

    Messages:
    19
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2012
    Basquiat actually walked for CdG!

    [​IMG]


    Anyway, I do believe Yohji, if not actually inspired by him, at least use him as a reference point:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
  9. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    7,761
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    Yerba Buena
    ^ awesome! I love that last look from ss12. Sadly Ivwri mentioned that never got produced for retail though. I think that's a super cool summer suit.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
    2 people like this.
  10. syed

    syed Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    55
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2011
    Location:
    London
    

    These days he's usually credited for making the everyday man comfortable in suits. Ozwald Boateng looks at him like a tailoring hero, and this is a man who broke the mould on Savile Row. I think his suiting had a far wider influence in menswear than those that followed, probably because it was such a monumental shift, rather than a refinement. Jil and Helmut were not as widespread, although Calvin did come close (after them I would say Hedi and Raf picked up the thread, reappropriating suiting from the afterwork crowd to the youth). Of course Yohji operates in parallel to this reading, but that is not to say his influence was not felt - just think about the 90s art crowd uniform.

    Oddly enough the turning point given by dress historians where Armani is concerned is actually Richard Gere in American Gigolo. Not a very good film, but there are not many that have had that kind of cultural impact and made a designer's name so well known!

    *edit* You can watch Ozwald's "Why Style Matters" on YouTube. He interviews Armani at the end and talks about how revolutionary he was.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
  11. valter

    valter Senior member

    Messages:
    136
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012
    [​IMG]


    Me photographed by Diana Luganski at Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art

    Wool felt hat: Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme A/W2011
    Wool gabardine coat: Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme A/W1994
    Wool gabardine double layer shirt/jacket hybrid: Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme A/W2011
    Cotton t-shirt: Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme
    Wool gabardine drawstring hakama: Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme S/S2012
    Logger boots: Red Wing Shoes
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
    10 people like this.
  12. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

    Messages:
    982
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2012
    HOF :nodding:

    The all black is very much my cup of tea as you know Mr V.

    Nothing beats an old school drop shouldered long silhouette :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  13. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

    Messages:
    982
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2012
    

    " The Untouchables " is an epc movie IMO. Wardrobe by Mr Giorgio Armani. Structured suiting at its best, the shirt/tie combo was staggeringly good.
     
  14. Jikan

    Jikan Member

    Messages:
    19
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2012
    When searching for Yohji items I often come across the Coming Soon collection that's been mentioned here a couple of times as well. Does anybody know anything more about the brand? Was Yohji himself involved in the process? Does it even exist anymore? I know the clothes were produced in Italy by Sinv. but are they actually being produced anymore? If no, does anybody know why? I really liked the concept and much preferred the branding to Y-3, but have no idea about the quality. But I haven't seen a lookbook of the stuff since 2010 while trying to research it.

    To me Coming Soon almost seems like someone took the safer items from his previous collections, made the fit a bit more Western (or youthful or what have you), used Italian manufacturers and sold at a lower price point. But I have no idea if this is correct or not.
     
  15. bala555

    bala555 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    97
    Joined:
    May 12, 2012
    Just ordered my first Yohji piece [​IMG]

    Dark grey pants, will post a fit when I get them. Really excited.

    I love tailored looks but sometimes I feel like I want to switch it up.
     
  16. blackakira

    blackakira Member

    Messages:
    20
    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2012
    thank you, to parker and syed. im on my phone now but when i have laptop access i'll certainly check out that ozwald video.
     
  17. Arche

    Arche Senior member

    Messages:
    125
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2012
    I have a Yohji related question. I'm trying to bid on a YYPH piece on Yahoo, but my usual proxy in not available. Has anyone had any dealings with the Japanese proxy Sharpservice in the past week? Usually they are open 7 days a week, and generally respond quite promptly, but since Sunday I've been unable to get any reply out of them. Usually they are very good, but I don't want to miss the auction, so I'm wondering if anyone can suggest another reliable proxy service.
     
  18. thatoneguy

    thatoneguy Senior member

    Messages:
    2,774
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2010
    

    I've used sutocorp in the past, they were really fast every time I've dealt with them. Also, if you have an account os SZ you can get the proxy fee down to 6%, look here: http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12324 (post #4)
     
  19. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

    Messages:
    982
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2012
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG][​IMG]



    Fabric + Details

    [​IMG][​IMG]


    YYPH AW02 Look 24 Double Lapel Blazer - ( HM-J46-113 ) - Size 2, 60/40 wool/rayon smooth and thick blend. Very oversized long silhouette, fully lined in cupro, buttonless sleeves with stitch details 3" above cuffs ( a folding indicator ). Bespoke chunky spinning top buttons, 3B closure, notch lapels. Intricate joint double lapels giving that extra oomph. Tremendous construction.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    YYPH AW09 Coke Can Knit - ( HZ-K57-961 ) 100% light weight wool, non-Runway piece. Part of the " Don't Let It Out " series. Size 3, very wide neckline. Black with Coke Can Splash at front. Usual delightful twist in the navy back panel. Great layering piece.


    Y's for men AW08 Drawstring Pants ( ME-P52-074 ) 100% interlocked cotton, weighty fabric, great oversized ( 40" waist ) sz 2 fit. One of my favorite pants, very versatile.

    YY x Adidas AW08 Leather/Fabric YY G8 Zip Boots ( HE-E02-721 ) - size 2.

    Basic SS Tee

    In motion

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  20. eloq

    eloq Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    63
    Joined:
    May 15, 2011
    Location:
    singapore
    been lurking here for some time. decided to post a pic of what i wore a couple days ago.
    muji tee and tencel hakamas and cdg shoes
    lightweight, comfortable.
    representing skinny dudes here :slayer:
    [​IMG]
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by