Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. JunyaYamamoto

    JunyaYamamoto Senior member

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    nice knit. i got a YYPH tank top in that style, long in the front and back, with zippers going up the sides. bought it from gilt for $19 lol.
     


  2. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    I almost bought a Y3 tank once that had a similar shape, until I realized it had no sides. It was basically a long parallelogram with a neckhole. Not too practical.
     


  3. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    After a month of waiting, my Japan YY Store Sale order finally arrived [​IMG]. I'm glad to say it's worth the wait.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    YYPH SS12 Look 9 Plain Stitch Jersey Shirt ( HB-B32-040 ) - 100% cotton jersey. The softest delicate jersey fabric imaginable. Light grey, sz 2 perfect oversized fit, 7B closure, concealed buttons except collar, jersey sleeves. Left front stitch with 3-D pocket, 2 back stitches cumulating to 2 "winglets" between shoulders. Excellent collar finish. Formidable combo with the Hakamas.


    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    YYPH SS12 Look 13 Inverted Neck Jacket ( HB-J44-035 ) in very black shade ( blacker than the Hakamas ) - 100% fleece cotton, plush and stretchy. 5B closure, 4 buttoned working sleeves. Cubist patchwork panel construction at the back. Subtle shoulder pads manage to create the best Yohji-ish shoulder line of late. Size 2 not tight, perfect fit, long sleeves. 2 inside pockets so it's a fully functional blazer. Terrific with the Hakamas with a coherence in fabrics. Unbelievable in motion. East meets West - great, can't be more pleased.

    YYPH SS11 SS Tee ( HO-T05-070 ) - 100% cotton, very soft but thicker than the SS12 010 cotton, Black strip on right shoulder and sleeve. Sz 3.

    YYPH SS12 Look 39 Type 2 Hakama Pants ( HB-P13-010 ) Size 3.

    Y's AW06 Hi-top sneakers.

    ( Anyone interested in getting the Inverted Neck style blazer from SS12, please beware. The fit is very much fabric specific. I tried the thicker Look 16 ( linen blend? ) and Look 44 ( gab ) in Conduit and Hervia respectively and both were tight in chest and armholes in sz 2 whereas this thin, fleecy one fits perfectly in same size. I risked ordering this untried from Japan and luckily it paid off. )
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2012


  4. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Really like that last picture david :slayer:.

    That jacket really suits you! Love the length of the sleeves. Glad to see that your hakamas are also getting a workout as well, hehe. Jersey shirt looks nice as well. I wanted to pick it up too, but when I saw only size 3s left on a lot of the websites that got it in I left it alone.

    Probably going to wear my cotton hakamas out tomorrow as well after seeing this, would be nice to as I have gone a fortnight without wearing them once (since I didn't travel with them). Will probably just do a version of your fit :nodding:.
     


  5. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Thanks, it was risky buying something untried in a sz that felt too small in 2 fabric iterations, esp involving a rather considerable sum of yen. Fortunately gamble right this time :satisfied:

    Regarding the Hakamas, I will poune on a black gab version in sz 2/3 when one appears on Y!

    That last pic was the wind playing silly buggers lol.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2012


  6. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    awesome buys! the only thing i don't like it's the cuffs of the jacket, they looks really big and chunky. maybe it's just the photo. can't wait for my hakamas to arrive in berlin as the weather it's way too hot for most of my yohjis.

    something we discussed few pages back - the slashed jackets. i'm currenlty watching "Orlnado" with Tilda Swinton and spotted few slashed jackets. 1650's. the whole movie it's very yohji s/s 2011 =))))


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    and an other interesting fact about the "curator" women coat we talked about while back. i saw the jacket been exhibited in the new v&a fashion section.
     


  7. wireartists

    wireartists Well-Known Member

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    I agree about the cuffs, it would have been better with no buttons. I still love the piece and I would be extremely happy to own it. I could check the new stuff at harvey's and I'll write a short review soon.

    kiko, are you in Berlin? then we should grab a beer or something.

    PD: wearing my snake aw09 silk shorts and a ss12 double layer long cardigan (same as david aka "the hakama master", I'm so happy you are posting some fits, your collection need to be seen.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2012


  8. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    Love your hamada fits David, especially with the inverted collar jacket.
    I needs to get me one of those..or at least a mandarin jacket :eek:
     


  9. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Good to hear from you the TRUE Yohji Master!! Sure your AW09 snake shorts + SS12 cardi combo will blow this thread up if you care to post a pic lol. I ain't the Hakama Master, you, Valter and Ivwri certainly are. I'm just more & more fond of these pants ( I was very anti-Hakama as I told you at the beginning ) the more I wear them tho I'm still not tall enough to pull off all the Hakama iterations, like the super wide hemmed version.....

    To clarify the cuffs, yes they are quite wide in this fleece iteration and they are on my knuckles but I'm ok with that ( learned from you again haha ). The gab ( Look 44 ) and linen ( Look 16 ) version sleeves seemed to be narrower, the silk print one narrower still if I remember rightly. I guess the 4-button sleeve thing is military led. I'm just relieved it fits very nicely in sz 2 as I mentioned earlier how random the fit can be.

    I will be going to Hervia hopefully next week so should add to the AW12 review to your Harvey's one :)

    As regarding posting my collection, just like to share info and passion for Yohji-san with the masses that's all :)
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2012


  10. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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  11. valter

    valter Senior member

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    These two jackets/coats are some of my holiest grails. Especially the upper one is ridiculously beautiful... I've unfortunately never seen those for sale.
     


  12. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Gloomy and stormy yesterday, so went out with this SS06 set-up

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    YYPH SS06 Look 25 Rayon Coat ( HR-C04-200 ) Size 2, 100% rayon, the blackest of black, soft handed, thin, smooth fabric. Fully reversible, double-sided black metal buttons. 4B closure, the front side is a conventional long coat with small peak lapels, 2 side pockets, long back vent, small buttonless sleeves and a removable buckle waist strap. The " wrong " side ( the side I wear more ) has the Yohji magic. 4 large 3-D zipped pockets at the front ( the chest ones make the lapels smaller still ) and 2 more at the sides, 6 in total. Sewn-in unequal length studded straps at the waist. The soft fabric lends it great motion, at the same time manages to hold its silhouette for a coat that is not light ( with all the pockets, strap etc ). Astonishing construction.


    [​IMG][​IMG]

    YYPH SS06 Multi Pocket Pants ( HR-P55-100 ) - not a typo, they are not from SS01. 100% wool, size 2, regular fit, 2 usual hidden side pockets and a buttoned one on left back. Additional big flapped " pouch " with buttons on left front, twin flapped one on right front. Huge flapped 3-D patch pocket at right rear completes the complicated construction. Classically tailored pants with utilitarian inspiration.

    Black SS Tee, CDG H+ Belt and Y-3 Hejarklack Hi-tops.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2012


  13. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Are you sure Valter? I am ( 90% ) sure anji_timu ( Wire called him the Godfather Yohji re-seller on Y! ) had one of those a few weeks ago.....asking well over 100k yen. Great pieces though, very dramatic.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2012


  14. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    David, I wore a very similar look to your t-shirt pic yesterday. Wore my new yohji pants with a black t and white sneakers. The new pants have quickly become my favorite pair, by the way. The shape is really exactly what I've been looking for. I really like the oversized waist that I can bunch up with a belt, or of I prefer I can wear them at my hips, creating a slight drop-crotch effect. The material is really beautiful too. I'll try to take a pic soon.
     


  15. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Senior member

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    Please post a picture :)

    Even though his later seasons are getting slimmer in cut ( as far as I'm concerned and I stand by that because I've been to the flagship stores and actually tried the clothes on every year ), YY pants remain oversized in general, allowing different options to suit your mood like you said. You can even wear them with clip on suspemders w/o belt to add another dimension.
     


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